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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I took my quad to Glamis a couple weeks ago. Rode it around for about a day, took it up and down oldsmobile a couple times, and then turned it off at the bottom to watch everyone else. thats where my problems begin. since then i havent been able to get it started. it just wont turn over. I replaced the inline fuel filter last night, did nothing. Replaced the spark plug today, the old one was really black, but even with the new one, it just wont start. i didnt gap it, but will that make a difference?

im not sure what is wrong...anyone care to chime in with any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
update to the problem:
it does crank, but doesnt start.

tried testing for spark, but im not sure if im doing it right. I took the spark plug (with the plug wire attached) and grounded the very bottom. ive gotten spark from it a couple times, but not consistantly. am i doing this right? anything else to look at?
 

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sounds like the plug or the SPG Spark pluse generator thingy (i know pretty technical huh)
 

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MPTonyT said:
sounds like the plug or the SPG Spark pluse generator thingy (i know pretty technical huh)
I think you're referring to the coil.

First question, will it run if you bump start it? If so you can focus more on the starter and it's mechanisms.

If it won't check your main electrical connections and your intake tubes and carb boots. Make sure the spark plug is seated well inside it's boot with a good connection and while you've got it out take the 10 seconds to gap it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i tried push starting, i wasnt hauling ass, but had decent speed, and it didnt turn over at all. im thinking its not the starter.

so how should i check the intake tubes and carb boots?
 

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Just do a visual inspection to see that they are seated well on the head and the carbs and that they have no cracks or slices.

Don't forget to adjust your valves if you haven't already, it'll make them very difficult to start when the intakes tighten up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i noticed the left rubber boot (looking from back to front) that goes from the carb to the airbox was off a little at the carb side, i did get that seated better and retightened. could that have caused the problem? guess i need to hook the gas tank back up and find out?

looks like ill need to get a couple tools to adjust the valves.
 

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That certainly could have caused the problem.

But the valves should be checked anyway, every 10 hours or so. All you should need is a good set of feeler guages, don't worry about the special tool for the adjuster you can use some needlenose pliers or a small wrench.
 

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breathe said:
can you buy feeler gauges at any automotive store?
yes, but you'll need the stick type instead of the single circle with a graduated edge. The exhaust ones can be a pain to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i think i have traced this problem, and hopefully should have it fixed this weekend.


im getting weak to no spark at the plug, so i checked my electrical system, switches were fine, coil was fine, plug boot and wire was fine, starter is fine. Problem is at the stator, resistance is off from what the specs are in the service manual, and when i check the stator wires + to the wire, - to a ground, i get a reading besides infinity, which leads me to believe that the stator is grounded. anyone disagree with my findings?
 

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breathe said:
Problem is at the stator, resistance is off from what the specs are in the service manual, and when i check the stator wires + to the wire, - to a ground, i get a reading besides infinity,
- to a ground, did you take a meter lead to a ground, like the battery or frame?

I read it as metering the leads coming out of the stator, the resistance between any of the three lead that feed the rectifier. Your looking for the resistance thru the internal coils that make up the stator.
Has you battery been holding a charge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i grounded the - meter lead to the frame.

on the wire harness there should be 4 wires, two that run to the stator, and two that run to the starter (at least according to the service manual).

my battery was holding a charge until the whole thing stopped working
 

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Three white wires leaving stator into a round plug up by the rear of the gas tank, I think it's white also, not sure about that.
Also a 4 wire group coming from the pickup coil.
These two groups of wires come out of the motor case above and ahead of the sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
okay that is the harness i should test then.


i tested the group coming from the pickup coil.

now in the service manual it says to test the 4 wire group, and my readings are off from the specs in the manual, so should i replace or no?
 

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If the wires were white/red and white/green with the meter + on the white/red and the meter - on the white/green then the manual says replace. You might go through a few other tests of the ignition before buying parts. Never known a parts counter to take electrical stuff back after it's been opened or used. Hate to see you get some thing you don't need.
Did you retest the stator using the 3 white wires? Different results?
 

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breathe said:
okay, i have retested using the 3 white wires, again it was grounding, when from what ive read, it should read infinity.
0.43 to 0.65 ohms between any two of the three white wires.
You using a digital meter or an older analog?

Where are you reading that it should be infinite, I'm looking at the charging system. section 8 page 20.
 
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