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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, and I have a quick question to ask everyone. I've got a 2001 Raptor 660, and I'm trying to find a new crank, OEM or aftermarket in stock measurements. I don't particularly want to pay the cost that a dealership wants, and I'm not sure what I should look at paying for a new one elsewhere. I realize that statement kinda contradicts itself, but I think you guys get what I'm trying to say. Anyway, if anyone has information for me, I'd appreciate it, and also where to get it! I apologize if this has been asked before or if I'm posting in the wrong section. Thanks in advance!
 

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VALVE DROPPER
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Its all good... I'm sure one of the guys on here has one and will hook you up shortly... I have a good OEM crank for a 700 should anyone need one... LOL..
 

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I am unique
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Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, and I have a quick question to ask everyone. I've got a 2001 Raptor 660, and I'm trying to find a new crank, OEM or aftermarket in stock measurements. I don't particularly want to pay the cost that a dealership wants, and I'm not sure what I should look at paying for a new one elsewhere. I realize that statement kinda contradicts itself, but I think you guys get what I'm trying to say. Anyway, if anyone has information for me, I'd appreciate it, and also where to get it! I apologize if this has been asked before or if I'm posting in the wrong section. Thanks in advance!
What is wrong with your crank..........
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My mechanic, also a close friend, is working on my bike for me and said I should replace it. He is not charging me a dime to do anything, so I don't see money motivating him to tell me these things. Unfortunately, I am in NY and the bike is in Michigan, so I can't see it firsthand, and I trust his word on these things. Sorry that is vague, but that's what I got! Lol.
 

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I am unique
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My mechanic, also a close friend, is working on my bike for me and said I should replace it. He is not charging me a dime to do anything, so I don't see money motivating him to tell me these things. Unfortunately, I am in NY and the bike is in Michigan, so I can't see it firsthand, and I trust his word on these things. Sorry that is vague, but that's what I got! Lol.
The stock rods are the weak point, there is nothing wrong with the stock crank itself...........
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So you think that just replacing the rod will fix it? I wonder why he wouldn't have told me that? I was on the sand dunes, at a complete stop, when the bike stalled out on me and then wouldn't start again. I had no compression at all, and when he pulled the motor, he said I needed to replace the crank.
 

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I am unique
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So you think that just replacing the rod will fix it? I wonder why he wouldn't have told me that? I was on the sand dunes, at a complete stop, when the bike stalled out on me and then wouldn't start again. I had no compression at all, and when he pulled the motor, he said I needed to replace the crank.
But what is wrong with the crank, as said previously, the rods arent the best, a simple rod replacement is cheapest if you arent going to stroke.........:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't know what is wrong with the crank, the downside to this is that my mechanic never answers his phone and doesn't call anyone back. It's like pulling teeth to get ahold of him. Let's say worst case i need to replace the entire crank, what should I look at, ballpark? And I'm not looking to stroke, lol.
 

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Super Moderator
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Hotrods OEM replacement crank, should run you about 250-280 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys! You guys respond fast. I appreciate it. I've been finding some stuff for around that price, I just wasn't sure if there was somewhere I could find it cheaper.
 

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Or you could drop in a 4mill stroker crank and pump up the cc's a little bit. Might as well if your going to replace the crank.

With a hot rods crank you need a special piston with an offset 2mm wrist pin. With the barkers crank you can run a regular 660 raptor piston. It has a 2mm shorter conecting rod.
 

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Just to be clear, the offset wristpin piston is only required with the Hotrods Stroker crank, the hotrods replacement crank will work with any off the shelf piston including stock.
 

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I am unique
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Just to be clear, the offset wristpin piston is only required with the Hotrods Stroker crank, the hotrods replacement crank will work with any off the shelf piston including stock.
Is this offset pin set off center or higher up in the piston to lower the piston because of the increase in stroke.............
 

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Higher up, in that the wristpin would have to be closer to the crown of the piston than a standard piston.

This is because the rod the HR crank uses is longer than the Barker, which produces a better ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, lets say that I do decide to stroke, what kind of money am I looking at, and what else will need to be done?
 

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Thanks guys! You guys respond fast. I appreciate it. I've been finding some stuff for around that price, I just wasn't sure if there was somewhere I could find it cheaper.
I agree with willy the cheapest way out is a new rod but many mechanics don't want the responsibility of splitting a crank and then re-balancing or turing it on V-blocks with dial gauges, I'm not a professional shop but I do put motors together in my garage for myself and my friends and even I generally just ask the person to buy the Hot Rods crank and rod assembly and be done with it. Either I'm lazy or simply don't want the responsibility of standing behind my re-manufactured crank.
 

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Theres a barkers 4mil crank in the forsale section now. Any off the shelf pison will work with that one. I bet you could get a good deal in it to. If your piston you have in it now is still good you could use that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
On the Barkers 4 mil, I'm a little bit confused on how that would work with an off the shelf piston. I've got a new OEM piston on order right now. Would I need to change anything in order to make the 4 mil work?
 

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I would not run a oem yamaha piston. They are cast and not as strong.

When you put in a 4mill crank the crank pin is moved out 2mm more from the center of the crank. This causes the piston to go farther down in to the cylinder 2mm and come up out of the cylinder 2mm. For a total gain of +4mm extra stroke.

You can't have the piston coming up 2mm and hitting the head. The barkers 4 mill crank uses a regular raptor piston with a conecting rod that is -2mm. The hot rods 4mill crank has a stock length rod and requires a piston that has the wrist pin moved up 2mm higher / closer to the top of the piston.

I have been running a hot rods 4 mill since they first came out. They are good cranks.


When you run a shorter rod you increase the side load on the piston skits and cylinder bore. A shorter rod is at a greater angle and pushes harder to the side.

The cost to do a stroker is the price of the crank and piston. No machine work is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Out of curiosity, why do you think my buddy/mechanic is so against me stroking? I mentioned the Barkers 4mil to him, and before I even finished, he must have said NO about ten times. I asked if it was just that part, or if it was the whole stroke idea. He said he won't work on it if I'm going to stroke it. I know he isn't afraid of doing it, he builds drag bikes all the time. In fact, I think he had one of like 3 or 4 alcohol banshees in the world at one time that he built. It isn't for lack of knowledge, but he didn't go into detail about why not a stroke. If anyone can give me some of their opinions on this, I'd appreciate it. Maybe if I have something to back up what I'm saying, I might be able to talk to him about it. Yes, I know it's my bike, I can do what I want. I just have never had reason to question anything he's done to my bikes or told me about them before. I'm just curious about his reluctance or refusal to do this...
 
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