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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, long story short:

A few weeks ago we went on a 320 km ride. A couple of times during the ride, it would feel like it was missing randomly and a few times on the same ride the engine totally cut-off. Some of these times I was able to restart it on compression as I was coasting down, other times I had to mess around looking for the issue but it seemed to have to do with the coil since messing with the wires in that area seems to have fixed the issue... but it would come back. Sometime along that ride, it totally cut off and wouldn't start this time and I was getting a code. After looking and reviewing everything, I found out 4 wires going to the ECU were skinned and one of them was totally cut off. After fixing these with what I had, bike went fine for the rest of the ride (a good 200 km still).

When I got back home, I stripped the ECU harness and fixed everything in there, cut all 4 wires, soldiered them back together and shrink-wrapped everything, bike was running A1 at that point.

Yesterday new ride... 230 km to go. After maybe 100 km, it started acting up, same exact symptoms... Would seem to be cutting off at certain RPM's but pinning it "solved" the issue but a few times, bike died and wouldn't start. Messing with the coil wires made it start again, apparently... I managed to finish the ride, but it was running pretty weirdly and cutting off randomly.

I inspected the wires and they look fine.. The connectors are on tight, they are clean.. The part of the wires exposed out of the loom look fine as well... So I'm a bit confused.. What the heck is going on?

I'm not 100% sure it has to do with the wires... All 4-5 times it did it I did mess with the wires, but then again it had some time to cooldown as well, so it could be temperature-related too... Not sure..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you tried a new spark plug? Are the spade connectors to the coil a snug fit?
Yeah the spark plug was changed for a brand new one on the first trip, so it has like 5-6 hours top.

The spade connectors aren't totally snug when I fully insert them, but if I pull 'em out about 1mm they are snug.. That's where I've set them. Can't say I noticed if they drop back in their spot though, so maybe it's just that.

It's at a shop to get dyno'ed right now and I told him about the issue and asked him to check if he could find anything.
 

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tighten the spade connectors down using a set of pliers then reinstall...

Check the wires coming out of the Speed Sensor, ive seen 2 bikes that were cutting out due to the Barker exhaust being too close and shorting it out....heard of a few here doing the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
tighten the spade connectors down using a set of pliers then reinstall...

Check the wires coming out of the Speed Sensor, ive seen 2 bikes that were cutting out due to the Barker exhaust being too close and shorting it out....heard of a few here doing the same thing
Isn't the speed sensor on the top-center of the transmission? Anyway, I'll check both of these out! Bike is in for tuning, I'll call the tuner tomorrow to tell him about it.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bump and update.

Last night I redid my coil mount (since I have the fenders off I had to install it elsewhere) and re-crimped all the connectors in that area and there was no change whatsoever.

Current symptoms is a somewhat erratic idle, it seems to skip a beat every now and then. I've had it turn off at idle while it was hot just a few minutes... and when I ride with it, I definitely have a spot in the RPM and/or torque range where it sputters.

The bike has been dyno tunned this week, so I'm 99.9% sure it's not map-related, the A/F ratio is spot on according to the tuner. Oddly enough, the tuner told me the bike was running A-1 when he dyno'ed it, no misfires.

So I'm kinda back to square one.. and I have a race on Sunday and not much spare time between now and then.

The tuner told me it could be the TPS or MAP-sensor acting up... I have access to spares of about every part on the bike, so I'm open to suggestions as to what to try/change/check/adjust.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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u could check the tps sensor and see what its reading. other than that im not sure. all the wiring is fine everywhere on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
u could check the tps sensor and see what its reading. other than that im not sure. all the wiring is fine everywhere on the bike?
Never messed with that and heck, I don't even know where that thing is. How would I go about doing this? I'm pretty sure I had to splice on it's wire to install my dynatek so I should be able to put a multimeter on there pretty easily. What am I looking for?
 

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it is located on the TB's right side from the front of the bike. There will be two

here is dl700's link at MR. good "how too"

http://www. ************.com/community/700-specific-how/14285-how-set-up-tb-adjust-idle-speed-tps.html
 

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its not letting me link modded raptors site. search modded raptor forums. Click raptor 700, "how too" and its the 7th one down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got it, thanks.

The dyno guy suggested it would be a defective TPS rather than a misadjusted one that would cause issues like I'm having... Something like the TPS not having a smooth curve when the throttle raises, sending bad readings to the ECU.

From the document I found what the idle (throttle at zero) reading should be, but what would the maximum be? I suppose I can test the resistance or voltage to see if there are any hickups going from zero to full throttle.

What about the "map sensor"? He mentioned this to me as well, said it was connected via a vacuum to the TB... What is the purpose of this and how do I test it?
 

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I'm not sure where that is at all. I would try to send dl a pm and ask im sure he'll know where it is and what its supposed to be at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update... Didn't mess with the TPS or any of that but I inspected my whole wiring throughly last night. Didn't find anything interesting. Went for a test run just now though and I got some new info that might help pinpointing the problem.

I ran it maybe a mile and it cut out twice.... I let it warm up before I went and then I did all my gears, stopped, turned around and went back but this time really pinning it... When I left off the gas, it cut out and wouldn't start... Messed with pretty much all the wires, nothing, wouldn't start... After 2 mins of fiddling around, it finally started. So I do pretty much the same thing again and the same thing happened but it didn't start again and I finally drained the battery to the point where it wouldn't even try (the infamous buzz).

So I walk back to my truck to pull it back to where the bike is so I can bring it back home... and I figured I'd try it once more just in case before pulling my heart out pushing this back up in the truck and the s-o-a-b started right up...

I have a feeling that something electrical is accumulating a charge and that time has been the factor in restarting it all along, rather than me playing with wires here and there...

I really need to get this fixed ASAP, race is tomorrow and I still have to change my tires, install the number plates, etc.

Any idea on what could cause these symptoms???
 

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have u tried looking at the speed sensor wiring? all your relays are working? I would think it would be fuel related since u let it sit for awile and it just fired right up. Your getting the correct fuel pressure? The manual says it should be at 46.1psi. Maybe a bad injector? but whats also weird is the tuner said it ran good when he tested it. So maybe u have a bad programmer?

just trying to throw ideas out there. maybe post a vid of it?
 

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also there arent any codes comming up at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
also there arent any codes comming up at all?
None whatsover... I'll try changing the whole tank assembly, I have a spare. I'll inspect and clean the injector and connector while I'm there... I ain't got anything to test the fuel pressure. As far as the speed sensor goes, my blue wire is cut and the ECU end of it is grounded to the frame. I also have a dynatek on it and from what I understand it bypasses the speed sensor use altogether... Anyway, I had a wire coming out the trans that was cut and I fixed it last night so all checks out.

In fact, pretty much all of the wirring has been reviewed last night and there isn't anything fishy anywhere... So I'm starting to think it might be gas. As far as the fuel controller goes, it seems to be working well, the lights are dancing as usual when it's acting up...
 

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maybe it could be the two miscommunicating together? maybe u could try to hook up the bluewire back to the ecu...or change out your dynatek to stock just to see if its that. because i remember someone had a similar problem with his rectifier i think its called (the thing behind the right headlight.) He swapped it out and it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I *think* I found the problem. Hard to tell since it was intermittent to begin with, but I did a 10-15 min run doing all my gears and it didn't do any of the issues. I did have a very slight hesitation at cruising speed, but it was slight enough to blame my controller mapping.

What I did is swap out the ignition coil and my gas tank. I'm pretty sure the gas pump was the culprit.

I got my race tomorrow, I'll report back at the end of the day. Lets hope it's indeed fixed, because otherwise, I can kiss my 1st place goodbye... The damn track pretty much has no place to pass so it's going to be 99% keeping it steady and not having to do too many pit stops (it's a 4h endurance race).
 

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What ended up going on with it? fuel pump? 4h race seems like a long ride my ass is sore after 5hrs of trails:D
 
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