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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I really like the site. Seems to be the best site for the raptors. I just traded one of my old 4x4's for a 2001 raptor that has about 1 hour on a complete rebuild of the engine, tranny, and everything else. I traded it to the owner of one of the bike shops around here. It is completely stock and he only went up one size on the bore. He also went up just slightly on the jets. I just wanted to get some input on some possible mods from you raptor gurus. I was thinking about the following, just give your opinion or possible steer me in a better direction.

1. Velocity Intake with K&N
2. DG slip on O or R series (not sure of the difference)
3. Paddles (Skat trak Haulers seem to be the common choice)
4. Sprokets (Everyone says 12T in the front Stock in the Rear) input?
5. Shocks (yfz 450 stock shocks) what years work?
6. Rear Axle longer (is this necessary?)
7. A-Arms (seems to be a pricey upgrade) alternatives??
8. That carb spacer on ebay (is that a legit upgrade?)
9. CDI (I am very open to opinions here whats the best choice??)

Well, thats all I can really think of right now. Any better options or just give me your opinion on any of them. I ride mainly in the dunes, usually Kermit, but I am planning on going to Glamis and Little Sahara soon. So whatever mods you think would be best for this type of riding. I don't want to get into the motor unless it would be simple and not real expensive. Thanks guys. I look forward to your input and I will help where I can too.

There is a pic of the bike attached.
 

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Welcome to the site and congrats on the new ride!

1. If you're riding in wet or splash prone conditions keep the airbox, remove the lid and go with a K&N or UNI Pro-Design Clamp-In adaptor and filter kit. If you want to remove the airbox there is another setup on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370466231021 that uses the stock intake tubes which I would recommend over the velocity kit.

2. Neither of these is going to be a useful or worthwhile upgrade. If you aren't going to put a full exhaust on it I wouldn't waste my time or money with a slip on. Not to mention the DG exhausts are loud and not always terribly durable.

3. Skat Haulers would be a great tire for the dunes. I'm not terribly familiar with the sand conditions at places like Kermit, but go for a 21" or 22" tall tire if you're looking for straight line acceleration and grip, try the 20" if you want a little more maneuverability and ease of whipping the tail around. If you're not all that concerned with the straight line and need more of a carving, sand trail type tire look into the ITP sand star.

4. 12/40 (-1 front, stock rear) is a very popular setup and I would recommend it for just about any terrain with your machine.

5. The YFZR was released in 2009 with long travel, long body shocks. You want the standard, shorter body shocks which were on the standard YFZ450 which was made from 2004-2009. Raptor 700R shocks from 2008+ and the 2007 SE models will work as well.

6. Extended rear axle is great, but needs to be paired with a wider front end. The G-force axle is a nice compromise of price and capability. I would not use wheel spacers, but G-Force does make "extended hubs" that would be a middle ground between the axle and spacers. I still recommend the axle.

7. A-arms are not cheap, but IMO they are still the best way to go. You can buy the cheap, ebay arms for under 400 dolllars, and good used a-arms for sometimes less. I absolutely would not recommend wheel spacers, stud extenders, or offset wheels. The only "cheap" alternative that has caught my eye is the diamond J widening kit. I don't particularly recommend it, but it's a lot better than any of the other shortcuts out there.

8. Skip the carb spacer.

9. Skip the CDI, it will do nothing for you.
 

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What type of riding do you plan on doing with it?
Also you will probably be much happier saving your money and investing in a full exhaust system... also shop around on here and ebay to find a system that actually performs for a good price.

YFZ shocks are def an improvement!
I wouldn't get a CDI yet... I'd go with a cam and springs first (then maybe porting). The 660's can gain alot from head work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input. What type of full system do you recommend? What is involved in porting? Is that something I can do myself? I plan on just general dune riding with some mild jumping. I know its not an original thought by any means, but I want to get the most bang for my buck. So sitting stock what would any one recommend from start to finish, any and all mods? Thanks a lot guys.
 

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What type of riding do you plan on doing with it?
Also you will probably be much happier saving your money and investing in a full exhaust system... also shop around on here and ebay to find a system that actually performs for a good price.

YFZ shocks are def an improvement!
I wouldn't get a CDI yet... I'd go with a cam and springs first (then maybe porting). The 660's can gain alot from head work.
+ 1 on the full pipe, & yes the 660 loves head work:D. I also wouldnot get a A/M CDI unless you do ALOT of modifications that requier's a timming change.
Best of luck to ya, & welcome to the forum...
 

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Yoshimura is where I would start looking for a good full exhaust to meet your needs. HMF makes good parts as well, and some of our sponsors have great deals on other good brands from time to time. Unless you're keen on the look of dual exhaust, I would skip it from a "bang for the buck" perspective.

I'd also stay out of the engine for now, which includes head porting. If it was freshly rebuilt keep it intact and it should serve you well for years to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds good. So don't go with DG even if it is a full system? I have a dg on my tri-z 250, but I think its just a slip on. I got it with it already installed so I never got to see if it made a difference. I'm not looking for duals. Just a good performing single.
 

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DG makes good two stroke pipes and because there's little power to be gained anyway they work alright in small bore 4 strokes, I do not however recommend them for high performance four strokes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So yoshi is the way to go then. What about white brothers? Or any others other than yoshi, I know yoshi's can be kind of pricey, but in particular what yoshi system would you recommend? There are so many different models of these different exhausts. How do you know which one is best?
 

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Yoshimura is where I would start looking for a good full exhaust to meet your needs. HMF makes good parts as well, and some of our sponsors have great deals on other good brands from time to time. Unless you're keen on the look of dual exhaust, I would skip it from a "bang for the buck" perspective.

I'd also stay out of the engine for now, which includes head porting. If it was freshly rebuilt keep it intact and it should serve you well for years to come.
I have a full Yoshimura SS RS-3 on my build. I love the power & sound of it..Very throughty & on the louder side..
 

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Yoshimura is where I would start looking for a good full exhaust to meet your needs. HMF makes good parts as well, and some of our sponsors have great deals on other good brands from time to time. Unless you're keen on the look of dual exhaust, I would skip it from a "bang for the buck" perspective.

I'd also stay out of the engine for now, which includes head porting. If it was freshly rebuilt keep it intact and it should serve you well for years to come.
+1 keep the motor stock, upgrade the suspension and ride the crap out it, used +2 a arms,07 seII and up raptor shocks with the hi & lo speed compression will be a huge upgrade compared to stock. Yfz shocks are good too but they lower your front end 1"+ so that's why id recomend the raptor shocks. If you can afford the rear axle too then do so it will help with the stability as the 660 & 700's are top heavy. Id wait to do the motor upgrades till the motor needs to be rebuilt/new top end. Welcome to the site and good luck
 

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Lots of good info on this thread for you for sure. Welcome to the site :beer:

If I were to start with a stock bike for your type of riding:

1: Intake (style depends on what you ride through, as MD said above)

2: FULL Exhaust (personally I like used parts prices) CT/Sparks/Yosh are all great choices, but look into the decibel/noise limits in the area and make you find something that will be lagal to use there. Many pipes have QC (quiet core) options that let you quiet down the pipe at the expense of some HP.

3: Paddles I liked 8 paddle 22x11x10 haulers for a stock- big 3 660. 6 or 7 paddles might be better where you ride though, talk to some of the guys who ride that area to help you choose the best tire.

4: I agree, keep the engine stock until you NEED to get work done, or until you feel you NEED more power from it. At that point maybe a bit higher comp piston and a Stage 2 hotcam/valve springs.

5: 12t sprocket - about $12, good change for most conditions on that bike :thumbsup:

After that basic stuff is done... SUPSENSION !!! Best upgrade I ever made to my 660 was better front shocks and wider a-arms. Hands down, no question ! Worry about the front end first IMO, then get an axle.


A lot of this stuff can be found on the forums/craigslist/e-bay used for some great deals ! Just be patient for the right deal and be quick when it comes, cause you're not the only one lookin !

Good luck man, enjoy the new ride :beer:
 

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If you got the money go duels barkers or monster. just my 2 cents. plus welcome too the form.
 

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Yeah. I agree with Mike. I'd stay out of the head or maybe do just a cam/springs if you want a to gain power. This can be done without removing the entire head, rather just opening the valve cover.

A full exhaust, removing your airbox lid, pro-design intake, jetting and port-matching your intake will gain you a little bit for relatively cheap.

Port matching is not porting of the head, but it is done by matching the intake boots to the same size and shape as the intakes in the head.
 
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