Tawanna -
The red wire starts at the solenoid - it should have 12V on it assuming the fuse is good.
The red wire ends at the key switch. Again, should have 12V
Other side of key switch has brown which (with key on) should have 12V on it
brown splits to several brown and a couple of red/white wires - all should have 12V on them
One red/white ends at the run/stop switch. It has 12V on it
The other side of the run/stop switch (when in run mode) feeds 12V to the red/black wire
Red/black ends at CDI - provides 12V to CDI.
Use a meter and find WHERE in the chain above this 12V does NOT exist? Also, are you able to follow this in the wiring diagram? This is the imoportant power connections that you need to get spark... once you verify all these, we can look at others..
Your pictures show a lot of cuts and splices... so each one could be a suspect. But measuring as I describe above (looking for 12V at the beginning and end of each important run) will tell you if a wire is open somewhere and, if so, which one it is.
Sometimes you can use a needle or sraight pin, shoved deep into the wire's copper or back of the connector, to get access to the signal you want to measure.
ALSO - what year 660 was the replacement harness intended for? THIS IS IMPORTANT!
RE COLOR CODES
BTW, as far as I remember, there's only one color that is used in more than one circuit and that is red. Circuit 1 is a red wire that goes from stator to CDI and circuit 2 is a red wire that goes from the solenoid to the rectifier and to the key switch. You can verify this using a multimeter and measuring from one connetor to the other in Ohms or Continuity (or beep) mode.
in ALL other cases (on the HARNESS) if you see a color several places, that is all the same circuit - they are interconnected in the harness.
This is NOT the case for accessories - for example, a lot of the switches just have black wires on them... it's not until they connect into their harness connector that they assume a color code. This make sense?
