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2008 yamaha raptor 700r
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
No, that's a waste of money.
New will be big$ and alot more than what Jocaga would charge you.
He will powdercoat them too if you want.
And a new shock is still generic, where as he is going to set it up specifically for Your weight and how/where you ride.
Ok I will look into that this weekend. Again appreciate all the price saving advice.
 

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2008 yamaha raptor 700r
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
All good advice by Sixpack577. If you do want to dig into the motors top end, what I have in my sig below works absolutely great on pump gas. I am still running the original bottom end with no issues to report. I have had this top end for the past 120 hours and love it. We also have an 08 with nothing but the big 3 added to that and it made quite an improvement. That one has the DMC Force 4's. I can't recall the Dyno numbers off hand from stock but it was a big improvement. When it was stock and running against mine in the sand i would give step son a good 40' run before i would take off, catch him and send him to Gapplebees. Not the case after the big 3. Same run I can catch him farther down and pass him, but no where near as easily as before.
Something in that area I think would be perfect for me. I don't want to sit around the stock 45hp I think I've seen was around where it is stock? If I can get into the mid to upper 60s I think that's more than enough for my use anyway. When I do go for a weekend riding with the guys I wanna be able to show them up haha and not trail behind. Thanks for the part list, I appreciate that. Really helps us newbies cause let's be honest, when you are just getting into this there is sooo much out there part wise and sooo many company's that with out guidance from people such as yourselves who have done alot of the trial and error already its quite overwhelming. That at least gives me a base to go off of and research. I think that's about all I need for now. This weekend I'm going to get the big 3 on it. Get some of the new cosmetic stuff I ordered on it. Going to look into having those shocks redone right away also definetly need good control. And I am going to go with a new top end from Mr cuervo. As well as a +3 throttle body. I need to find a dyno near me as well. Lots to do this weekend. You guys have a preference on tires? I will mostly be on dirt trails in the woods, some mud but nothing to crazy. Will mainly be a trail atv on dirt. Thanks again to both of you guys. You have been a tremendous help. Appreciate your time.
 

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General consensus on tires are the GBC X-master. When I had mine brand new I broke them in some super sloppy conditions that I would never ride in again but was astonished the traction they had. I have bought a set for both of ours, shop around on pricing. One set was from Costco the other from Summit Racing.

Ya, upper 60's is really fun, especially when you want to toast some 450's..

 

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2008 yamaha raptor 700r
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
What do you think would be more cost effective? Taking my A Arms off bringing them and having them sand blasted and repainted or just buying new A arms? Can pick up the whole front set up in the color I want for $450 uppers lowers both sides.
 

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2008 yamaha raptor 700r
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I wouldn't buy these just because they don't have serviceable heim joints/no grease fittings.
They'll squeak and creak in no time.
Eventually they get slack and knock from the wear.
A friend of mine had a +3" set on his 700.
Got it. Will find a set I like that have the grease ports. I didn't even pay attention to that. 🤦‍♂️
 

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2008 yamaha raptor 700r
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Update: Shocks coming out this weekend and getting sent to Kevin to get redone. Thanks for that advice was able to get in touch with him and set it up. A-Arms coming out this weekend and going in for blasting and yamaha yellow powder coating. +3 throttle body ordered. New top end with big bore stage 3 hotcams cam. New valves piston ect. Got the big three sitting yet that need to go in. Looking into upgrading the cooling system as suggested, and I think I'm going to upgrade the clutch while she is all tore apart. Will keep you guys that helped updated as it all goes back on and I get it dynoed and tuned. Thanks again to both of you for the help.
 

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636 Posts
For the cooling system I have already done all the possible mods, which are,
Engine Ice coolant, and inline aluminum finned cooler in the lower hose, air scoops to direct more air at the engine, a Spal brand higher cfm fan, a Mishimoto brand 30% larger radiator, a Trail-Tech Vapor Dash that also has 2 programmable temp lights(stock temp light comes on at 250f to tell you your engine is ruined), and MrCuervoRacing's early on fan thermostat that turns the fan on 25 degrees sooner.
The stock fan comes on at 225f, but my 700 has never ran over 211f with this setup, and I watched it idle up to 217f when stopped, which is the highest temp my Vapor has stored(and all above parts went on before I ever rode it, minus the radiator, which was not on it at the 211 and 217 temps, as they may have been a couple degrees lower still).
All these mods and info are in my thread in 700 modifications, 2020 SE Trail Build.
If I had to choose only one,
I would start with Cuervo's early on fan thermostat, as it will make the biggest difference by itself.
When my raptor was having issues with the radiator, I took it out one time ( when I figured out the leak) and it was fricken a STREAM pouring from it, I was going pretty slow and the overheat light came on, I turned it off immediately, it was a warm day like maybe 80 degrees f.
Do you think it detected low pressure in the coolant? Or do you think I actually screwed my motor?
 

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When my raptor was having issues with the radiator, I took it out one time ( when I figured out the leak) and it was fricken a STREAM pouring from it, I was going pretty slow and the overheat light came on, I turned it off immediately, it was a warm day like maybe 80 degrees f.
Do you think it detected low pressure in the coolant? Or do you think I actually screwed my motor?
It just reads the temperature, not pressure in the cooling system.
If your engine is still running good and has no new noises, then you shut it off in time.
Had you not noticed the light or the leak, and ridden for another minute or 2, it would be a different story.
 
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