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Discussion Starter #1
my buddies 03 660 has no spark read on here that if you unplugged the recitfier and it started the stator was bad. well we tried that and it didn't start so by what i read i get that the stator should be good but i swapped the coil, rectifier, cdi box, and starter relay over and still same result the relay clicks and the engine cranks but no spark so are we missing something or should i look towards a rubbed wire somewhere or could that stator be bad if so how would i check the stator
 

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I am unique
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my buddies 03 660 has no spark read on here that if you unplugged the recitfier and it started the stator was bad. well we tried that and it didn't start so by what i read i get that the stator should be good but i swapped the coil, rectifier, cdi box, and starter relay over and still same result the relay clicks and the engine cranks but no spark so are we missing something or should i look towards a rubbed wire somewhere or could that stator be bad if so how would i check the stator
I have posted this before that the stator could be bad even though the unplugging the rectifier does not solve the problem, I have personally seen this, first though make sure the switches are all good, the on off on the handle bars and also the ignition switch.
Just recently we had a yfz 450 in the shop that just was one stubborn animal, it would run great, shut it down and no start, let it cool and it may start, all sorts of weird stuff, eventually we had changed the stator, rectifier, bypassed all the switches, changed the coil, sparkplug, etc, battery, CDI units were all verified good on another machine, so what is left, the FLYWHEEL, changed that it she runs like a top.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks man so the flywheel could be a problem to or doesn't the raptor have one i have never seen then insides so im lost i just got mine last yr so im on a learn as i go basis i was just swapping stuff from mine to his to try and get it to run mine runs good so i knew it worked and some stuff i put everything but the rectifier on mine but that just charges the battery right
 

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thanks man so the flywheel could be a problem to or doesn't the raptor have one i have never seen then insides so im lost i just got mine last yr so im on a learn as i go basis i was just swapping stuff from mine to his to try and get it to run mine runs good so i knew it worked and some stuff i put everything but the rectifier on mine but that just charges the battery right
The rectifiers changes the AC power coming from the alternator to a controlled DC charge to the battery. Raptor has a flywheel, also, I would think and gamble on the stator, since they do have a habit of eating them, but first check all the other stuff I mentioned, switches and wiring.
 

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Master of the Electron
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first though make sure the switches are all good, the on off on the handle bars and also the ignition switch.

FYI, if the key or run/stop switch is at fault, the starter won't turn over when pushing the start button. The run/start sw gets power from the key sw, and the CDI gets power from the r/s sw which then provides power to the starter relay. So, if it cranks from the start button, those switches are providing power as they should.

If you traded out all other KNOWN working parts, then Willy is probably right, it's either a different fault in the stator that can't be remedied by unplugging the rec/reg, or you threw the magnets in the flywheel or sheared the woodruff key OR it's a fault somewhere in the wiring harness. DOn't forget to check the pulse coil (the crankshaft position sensor) too. It's separate part of the stator assembly, combined with the stator cabling into a single replacable unit.

Good Luck.
 

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FYI, if the key or run/stop switch is at fault, the starter won't turn over when pushing the start button. The run/start sw gets power from the key sw, and the CDI gets power from the r/s sw which then provides power to the starter relay. So, if it cranks from the start button, those switches are providing power as they should.

If you traded out all other KNOWN working parts, then Willy is probably right, it's either a different fault in the stator that can't be remedied by unplugging the rec/reg, or you threw the magnets in the flywheel or sheared the woodruff key OR it's a fault somewhere in the wiring harness. DOn't forget to check the pulse coil (the crankshaft position sensor) too. It's separate part of the stator assembly, combined with the stator cabling into a single replacable unit.

Good Luck.
I would never count out the key switch or the thumb controlled on off, I have seen some of the weirdest things with atvs, last year we had a yfz in the shop that would turn the engine over but no start, turned out it was the key switch, on the headlight side of the switch the resistance was good but the ignition side had 5 ohms resistance, probably enough to get the start circuit completed but not enough to drive the CDI to start the engine.
 

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Master of the Electron
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The CDI (and it's internal logic) MUST be working in order for the start relay to get power to crank... if it is as you suggest Willy (high resistance in one of the switches causing a CDI malfunction), that SHOULDN'T happen, but I'm not gonna bet my career on it. Is the YFZ's start relay controlled by the CDI? I sure don't know. Might be comparing apples and oranges here.

Does your reverse light also work? This is also driven by the CDI's digital logic and shouldn't work if the CDI is not receiving proper supply voltage.

Best way to test Willy's hypothesis is to look at the voltage between ground and the red/black wire which feeds 12V power from the r/s switch to the CDI... it better be damn close to raw battery voltage when all switches are on.
 

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I am only telling of cases that I have seen go through my shop, In this case (yfz) I am referring to the engine would not start, (fire), that is, we bypassed the ignition switch and pressed the start button and it would fire and start up, I checked the resistance on the ignition switch connection that supplies the cdi with 12 volts and had 5 ohms resistance, the other connection was perfect, .1 ohms, this supplies the lights with 12 volts.
The yfz has no reverse, hence no reverse light, when you press the start switch this triggers the start relay to turn on and turn the engine over, two different circuits. There is also a neutral start feature in this bike also.
I am not about to try to figure out all the electrical explanations as to why this would happen when this goes bad, electronics can cause some of the wildest and unexplainable situations when something goes wrong, for instance Quadmaniac, the raptor I PMed you on some time ago that would start, and or backfire on starting, run crappy, or run great, or not start at all, just no logic to it at all.
WE tried a new stator with housing from an engine we had here and the raptor was all smiles as was the owner, this stator was only a few months old, and get this, we installed a timing light and the engine had spark, even though it would not start.
So I talked to Ricky stator and he sent a new crank sensor, we installed this and the bike was great and the owner was happy, FOR A FEW DAYS and then it was the same story, so to keep the poor owner happy I bought a new stator from Yam, installed it and the owner was happy of course. I had to deal with the warranty of this stator from Rickey, he checked it and returned it to me deeming it perfect................no problem with it. I returned it at his expense deeming it garbage. End of story,
I can go on and on here with wild stories of weird stuff that goes wrong, with no logic even the recent YFZ that we finally changed the flywheel and the bike runs like a top, and nothing visibly wrong with the flywheel, amazing isn't it...............
 

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Master of the Electron
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Yeah! There are always the 'typical' failure modes that we see over and over... but then there are the 'what the hell?' ones that haven't been seen before and don't make a lot of sense, until you find and fix them. I don't especially like that kind. They don't adhere to my anal retentive engineer's logic! But in the long run, they add to the database for troubleshooting next time.
 

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I need help with the no spark problem

I was reading all the info about no spark and I have the same problem. my situation is a little different. I had a Ricky stator system on my bike when the bike died. I put all the stock parts back in the bike thinking it was the Ricky stator, but still had no spark. I have inspected and metered the pick up trigger mechanism, shows go. It also show proper resting resistance. I have replaced the CDI, the coil, and plug. Still no spark. the bike will "bump start" and run, but will show no spark during crank. I then moved to the throttle and carb switch thinking they were mis-adjusted, check fine and metered good. Moved to the TPS, it too has proper voltage and works fine. The only parts I have not replaced are the flywheel, stator, rectifier/regulator, and the harness. I forget to mention that I did replace the stock flywheel with a Trailtech 4 oz. heavier flywheel a month ago, but bike ran fine until recently. I am at a complete loss as is the local dealership of what to do next. I am looking to for help and willing to buy a large amount of beer for someone that can help me get my bike running again.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Carb switch and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)? Do you have a 700? I'm not aware of these devices on a 660.
 
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