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Non running raptor

983 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  firstraptor
Ok guys,
I did some trail riding on my raptor a while back. It ran fine. Got home and the bike wouldn't start. I thought, "ok, need a new battery". Got a new battery. Put it on. Bike still wouldn't start. Turned over, but wouldn't start. Cleaned the carb. Adjusted the floats. Adjusted the valves. Changed the gas. Put in new spark plug. Using some starting fluid got the bike to start and idle with the choke on. Valve sound was more noticeable than it was previously, but I didn't think it was too terrible since I was within specs on my adjustments. Turned off the choke and the bike wouldn't idle on it's own. Went back out today to try again. Starter now only engages intermittantly. Tried a different battery. Same problem. Sometimes takes 2-3 seconds before starter will roll motor over. I think when it does I hear a "slapping" sound. It's pretty loud. Started twice for about 2 seconds and died. Fuses are good.
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My Pig Raptor Did that right After Engine Rebuild

But i hooked it right up to a Battery Booster Kit And Let it sit for a while then tried Starting it fired up ran and as soon as i pulled my Booster Pack off it died No Power No running That is one thing you can try Also Try Pulling your Spark Plug and turning it over (NO PLug IN) See if it Cranks Faster The other one is...

Your Rectifier, CdI, or Coil could be bad and only giving intermittent Spark which will not let your bike run (Obviously) ProcomEngineering.com has a full kit for like 125.00 and it is decent i have on mine...

Good Luck
Canada ROCKS :thumbsup:

Got most of the problems worked out. Bike now idles fine with the choke on. Once warm it will idle without the choke as well, just not very well. When you try to throttle it up it will spit and sputter like crazy and if you gas it too quick it just dies. Actually, it dies no matter what after about 1/4 throttle. I used the clear tube method to set my floats. It almost seems to me as though it's running too lean. I have the mixture screws turned out 3 full turns and the bike is completely stock.
Did you check the parking brake sensor? If that comes undone you will run into problems like this. Do a search on parking brake and see if that helps.
toupee, whats the "slapping" sound?
Is it a new noise?
Firstrapter- the slapping sound seems to have disappeared after I re-adjusted my exhaust valves. There was way too much lash. I don't know what I was doing the first time I adjusted them but I was way off. ::) I'm confident in my valve work now. (BTW tweezers worked the best of anything I've tried to turn the adjusters)
I tried shorting out the reverse sensor, unplugged the parking brake sensor from the perch and the plug by the radiator, and even bypassed the clutch switch.
I've now got the bike to an idle without the choke by adjusting the floats closer to 13~14 mm instead of 16mm. The air mixture screws are currently at 2 1/2 turns out though I had them at 2 3/4 out and I think it ran better then. I don't think my problem now has anything to do with any switches because the bike will rev if I gas it. It does hesitate a second before revving up, and if I dump the throttle too quickly it will kill the engine. If I hold the throttle at 1/4 the bike will sputter and not run correctly, but if I gas it to full throttle it will rev up.
Oh, and I've noticed that my neutral light is blinking in and out even though the bike is definitely in neutral, so I guess there's a short or bad switch there.
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The blinking reverse light in neutral is the cdi telling you your rpm's are to high in neutral, it's normal.

The sputter at 1/4 throttle could be jetting, fuel screws, or pilots. I'm not the guy to ask about that.
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