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Rings come by bore size, so you will get the right size rings for your piston and bore.
Ring end gap is what it sounds like, the size of the gap in the end of the compression rings, while in the cylinder.
That size is important for max life and performance.
When rings are made, they have small tolerances(like all internal engine parts), but they will never be manufactured perfectly, and have a tolerance range for that reason.
So, rings will come new with an end gap that is either within spec, or on the high side(any low sides are factory defects).
If it's on the high side, the gap is too small, and can then be filed down(always only one end of each ring, never both ends), filing enlarges the gap to an acceptable range.
As the engine heats and metal expands, the ring gaps close.
Closing to spec is good, with proper seal. Closing over, and into itself, is stress on an already high stress part.
Closing not fully is as you would expect, less performance.
New rings should be measured at assembly by placing them into the bore that they will go into, and measuring their end gaps.
File if needed, and only with a ring file tool/grinder. That is the only way to get a flat and squared edge on the ring for proper seal, you could never match that by hand.
Ring gaps once the rings are on the piston must also be not be in alignment with one another. The actual gaps are spaced 90 to 180 degrees apart, depending on specs.
Little things like these go a long way for engine life.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Cool I didn’t know there was a special tool. I should have assumed as much.

Does anyone have any tips not in the manual on how to most efficiently pull the top end out of the Raptor? I assume just remove the exhaust and then go to town with anything else in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Small update -

Decided to go with Bo to do the porting. I talked to Cuervo and he just didn’t seem interested. He’s had a hard time answering his phone calls and getting back to me over text. He was pretty short when I talked to him about the build I wanted to do too. Maybe he just hears the same questions all day long, idk.

Anyhow, I ordered the camshaft from him last Friday and am waiting for them to come in stock, mid January probably. Then I’ll send the KW springs, 5050 cam, and head to Bo and he’ll do the Megladon port for 850 shipped, w/ cam installed.

In the mean time, I’ll be seeing about fitting up this CP 11:1 piston and gapping the rings. Should be a fun build. I’m excited.
 

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Looking forward to watching this build come together!
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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I can't compare to others, but I had Cuervo +1 valves with porting and 5050 cam and really liked it. 70+HP and a ton of bottom end.

Cuervo cam and porting are designed to work together. As for velocity, the bigger the valve, the slower the velocity.

AND, Daniel will help you with maps. He may not always answer the phone, but will call back shortly. Even after hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I appreciate the feedback Dez. Aside from the stuff I mentioned, one of the big reasons I went the other route is that I can get +2 intake/+1 exhaust, with the head ready for a 54mm tb for about the same price as Daniels +1/+1 build.
I have no doubt he makes a killer build, but I didn’t want to have to send the head back when the inevitable happens....I want more power. I keep saying I’ll be happy with what I’ve got, and yet I keep upgrading. I can see a 54mm in the future already. 🙃

For now though, this is it. I swear!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
...For now though, this is it. I swear!
Turns out I was wrong, this wasn’t it. Went out and had my nerfs powder coated to match my houser arms and heel guards. Bam! Now what’s next...

 

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Discussion Starter #29
I give a word of advice for anyone looking to do the same, take your die grinder, hog out the holes a bit and smooth out the edges where the straps poke through. So much easier to replace the nets.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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It doesn't end, ask me how I know!
 
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