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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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I got your PM just fine thanks. I have an OEM head gasket but I need -

Gas tank bolt rear left

Gas tank bolt spacer for front left

Head studs

Cylinder to case gasket

Cam tensioner gasket

Exhaust port gaskets for head

Bolt for battery strap
PM sent.

I've used that Ultra Copper before, it gets everywhere and takes a long time to dry.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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10,583 Posts
I'm not a fan of a steel sleeve as a replacement of a Nikasil coating for a number of reasons.

Nikasil is a thin coating that can be striped and recoated, the preferred method. It's a strong coating and can be rebuilt a number of times with a factory bore piston. Millennium Enterprise does this.

Boring out for a sleeve means they take about 1/8in or more on each side for a steel sleeve. I've had them break thru the water jacket and leak, or it reduces the size of the water jacket. The steel wears and over time will need a oversize piston. Who makes those??

PM me if you're interested in a used cylinder. You could have it delivered in a few days.
Tracking number sent.

PS, addition to the above;
A steel sleeve can slip down. out of position. That was a problem they had with the early big bore sleeves in a factory cylinder. They've since put a lip at the top of the sleeve.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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10,583 Posts
Be sure to check the head for warpage, a common problem on the 700.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Touch your clothes with that stuff and you might as well throw them out. Stuff does work but I hate it.t
That’s funny, I remember I used to feel that way but after working with it as a fitter for so long I don’t even think twice about it now. The thing that gets me is that mastic thats used to seal duct work, the sheet metal workers call it ‘pookie’. Good lord.

I’m def going to try some that RTV though. Couldn’t hurt I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Alright so the the head is at Bo’s, I got the cylinder from Dez, and now I’m ordering gaskets and tty bolts.
I see the manual calls for anti seize on the bolts. Anything specific? I was going to get some copper coat.
Also, should I use some on the base gasket and head gasket or no?
 

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Base gaskets typically don't get rtv, or any sealant, and metal/cometic head gaskets do not.
If you are using a composite head gasket, you can use a light coat of aerosol gasket spray on bolt sides.
Torque to yeild bolts obviously work, but head studs provide a stronger and more consistent seal.
20200116_180344.jpg
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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10,583 Posts
Alright so the the head is at Bo’s, I got the cylinder from Dez, and now I’m ordering gaskets and tty bolts.
I see the manual calls for anti seize on the bolts. Anything specific? I was going to get some copper coat.
Also, should I use some on the base gasket and head gasket or no?
Again, check the head for warpage, common on the 700. You don't want to blow a head gasket the first ride.

IDK the price of factory head bolts, but studs at around $125 would be a better option, an tighten 10% more then TTY.

Yes, any brand anti-seize on TTY, or blue Loctite on the bottom if you use studs.

Gaskets are normally installed dry, but can be coated if you want as ^^above^^.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Shoot I was going to go with new tty bolts because it’s $50 for all 6 head bolts and 4 cylinder bolts. Compared to $100 for 6 head studs alone.
I’m not totally opposed to going with head studs if that’s the most reliable move.
I can’t seem to find cylinder studs, though. Not sure what’s up with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Again, check the head for warpage, common on the 700. You don't want to blow a head gasket the first ride.

IDK the price of factory head bolts, but studs at around $125 would be a better option, an tighten 10% more then TTY.

Yes, any brand anti-seize on TTY, or blue Loctite on the bottom if you use studs.

Gaskets are normally installed dry, but can be coated if you want as ^^above^^.
Yeah I am just using OEM gaskets and god forbid I blow one out on the first ride. Will be going to Moab shortly after getting this build together.

The head is across the country at the moment, I’ll ask my builder if he can check for me, not sure if that’s standard practice or not.
And Im dropping the cylinder off at a machine shop today who specializes in head and cylinder work. I will ask them to check for warpage. Should I check crankcase as well?

I didn’t realize there was a specific unbolting patter for the head, I just went for it, so hopefully that didn’t distort it. What happens if it is warped? Never dealt with that before.
 

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A warped head can be sanded with a fine grit paper on a Flat surface, to remove a small amount of material.
It can also be milled .010-.040" (ballpark numbers, I'm not sure what the specs/limit is for a 700 head.
The top of the cylinder should also be checked for warpage, although it's not as common to warp as the head is, as the cylinder has more material, and also as result, disapates more heat quicker.
The top of the cases where the cylinder sits should not be an issue.
Never hurts to check it with a straight edge. It's unlikely, but possible it has a casting flaw, or one half was replaced and they don't align perfectly now.
Go for the head studs and a cometic gasket, it should last longer than tty bolts and a composite gasket, especially with higher compression.
 

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Stock base gasket has sealant on it where the cases join. Aftermarket base gaskets don't have the sealant, you can put a small amount of silicone sealant on the aftermarket base gasket where the cases join.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I thought OEM gaskets were the best for the head? I suppose I’ll go with studs for longevity thanks.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Head warpage can be minor to really twisted, like a table with uneven legs. It rocks, but sit on it and it can flatten out but it ain't right. A straight edge and feeler gauges are used to check, or, run across sand paper and look for low spots. Bad warpage is machined flat. I'm gonna have do agree to disagree with post #75^^. Yes, a warped head can be sanded on a perfectly flat surface but not with fine sand paper. If bad, start with a course paper, then I use more of a medium paper around 180 grit on a 1/2in x 2ft. x 2ft piece of glass. Look at the top of the cylinder I sent, you'll see that the sanding scratches are consistent with no voids. If it were warped there would be areas without scratches. The scratches will hold the gasket better from slipping and prevent failure.

I know you have factory head gasket, that has better sealing then Cometic. I've seen to many Cometic gaskets fail, but, I've only been building motors since the '70's. Any base gaskets will work but the factory gasket has the extra sealant added.

Get the head studs, you'll thank me later. Use factory cylinder bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Savage thanks again guys.
Bo said the raptor head has a ‘design flaw’, if you will, in that almost every head he’s ever seen is warped corner to corner. He said he takes care of it though so I won’t have to. Thankfully.

Off to the machine shop with my cylinder now. Does anyone know how far down to the bottom of the cylinder the piston rings travel when installed? There are a couple small scratches at the bottom end of this cylinder. Top most scratch is 1&3/8” high off the bottom. That should be fine right, the rings won’t ever travel that low?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I was going to crank her over to check bdc but I don’t have the enormous Allen wrench needed to remove the cover yet.
 
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