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I wish the Oil Change topic could have been a sticky thread since I've seen numerous threads out there. For all those who might be confused about doing this maitenance, this should solve the problem.

On all Yamaha Raptor 660's

(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.

(2) Remove both oil drain bolts, thats right there is TWO.
A. The First one is located next to the shifter linkage on the left hand side of the ATV. You should have to remove the engine skid plate. This bolt will allow the oil from the crank case to drain and should require a 17mm wrench or socket.
B. The Second one is located at the bottom of the oil tank. The oil tank is normally black in color and located in front of the engine attached to the frame. On the oil tank you will find the oil dip stick which is located on the top right side of the oil tank. This bolt will allow the oil from the oil tank to drain and should require a 15mm wrench or socket.

(3) After removing these Two bolts allow for the oil to drain completely. Rock it, roll it or just allow the ATV to drain on a level surface. After you are satisfied replace both bolts, I hand tighten them to my satisfaction but the manual will recommend 22ft lbs on the crank case bolt and 18ft lbs for the oil tank.

(4) If you are replacing the oil filter continue with this following step. If not skip and continue to step 5. The oil filter is located on the right side of the ATV. Most of the time you can hand remove these but an oil filter wrench will do the trick just fine. This filter is a bit smaller than normal car filters so an adjustable filter wrench is your best bet. Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter. Double gasketing a filter is very bad and could cause future problems. Not much oil will flow from this area since it only holds .2 US qts. When installing the new filter make sure the gasket is seated in the filter groove and apply a light coating of fresh oil to the gasket and tighten er' down. Again hand tightening is acceptable yet 12ft lbs is recommended.

(5) All the oil is out, Both bolts are replaced and tight, Oil Filter is replaced (maybe) and tightened down. Now to add oil. But you may have some questions. :3question:

A. How Much Oil? First off let me say that every engine is not the same! You will have to treat your ATV like an individual. They are all close but depending on how owners care for thier ATV's and just random variables can make these numbers change. You should purchase 3 US qts to be safe.
B. Which Oil Brand? You make the choice but YAMALUBE 4 is the easiest choice. I like the AMSOil but thats just my choice. :thumbsup:
C. Which Weight of OIL? Refering to the manual, 30degrees F to 120degrees F use 20W40, 10degrees F to 95degrees F use 10W30, Under 30degrees F use 5W30 but at this stage you should be running the SNOWMOBILE! Basically the hotter the weather the thicker the oil and the colder the weather the thinner the oil.

You add oil to only one place, the OIL Tank! Start with adding 1.75 US qts. You'll need more but this is your starting point. After adding this amount start er' up. Run it for 10 - 20 seconds giving it a few revs of the engine but be gentle. STOP the engine and allow the oil to settle. Air bubbles can give you a bad reading and since oil is thick, waiting a minute or so to check the oil level is the best bet. Don't RUSH! Check the dip stick and you may or may not find the oil level on the bottom ot the stick. Now here is the most challenging task of this maitenance action. I don't care if you add and check 10 times, it should only take 2-4 but keep the following thing in mind. After you add and start you must allow the oil to settle. The total addition of oil should be between 2 US qts and 2.5 US qts.

(6) Got the oil to the proper level, Good. Wipe down any oil spilt and replace the engine skid plate. The only other two things to watch out for is not to lose the o-ring on the oil tank dipstick and don't burn your arm on the exhaust, I did my first time. :unsure:

I hope this helps out. Check your oil every other ride and change when needed. Cheep and easy maitenance and will extend the life of your ATV. Happy Mudding! :thumbsup:
 

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you can pick up the oil at any Yahama dealer parts department or you can pick up at any ATV performance shop.

excellent thread - should be sticky
 

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Excellent write-up!

Also-make sure that you dont use automotive type engine oil...bad for oil bath clutches...

Use ATV specific engine oil..yamalube, amsoil, etc...
 

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Thanks for thread sticky. Good write up. To add you can find 3/8 drive oil filter socket type deal for cheap 2-4bucks wallmart are parts store. also to add the oil filter by the book says to torque to 12lbs
 

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If anybody is in need of some AMSoil please feel free to email me as I am an authorized dealer. Please email me at [email protected] and ill get it taken care of for you....
 

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Great thread.
Funny because the first time I lost the "O" ring and this time I burned my fingers.

Also to add to this when checking the oil do not screw the dip stick in, simply place it onto where it would be screwed in and take a reading. I am not sure how much of a difference it makes though. Also if anyone is tired of buying yamaha oil filters for $16 a pop you can buy a different brand from Rocymountainatv.com for 4.99 a piece. Also I used a fram for awhile and it seemed to work fine. Any imputs on that?
 

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Wanna know the shitty thing about 18ft lbs on the oil tank i striped off the hole cylinder thingy right off the tank today. but dont worry jbweld fixes the r, and beer fixed me, so now its all good.............i hope
 

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You can also buy Wix oil filter from O'Reilly's or NAPA. For all who don't know Wix is one of the highest quality filters you can buy.
 

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Chewy67420 said:
IronCityGuy said:
(1) Trust the manual, If you haven't purchased one you can download it from this forum.
I"m new to the site and i could not find the manual on the site. I was hoping someone could point me in the right way.\

thanks
Read the stickies :thumbsup:
 

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K & N are doing replacement oil filters r these any good i normally use stock and stock only on most of my parts ? by the way i am no too bothered about price . .
 

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when putting oil back in the bike you just put it in the black tank, not the crankcase? It won't blow up the motor will it?

thanks
 

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No it will not blow up the motor.
 

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That was a great write up! I swore that the manual did say though that the raptor 660 takes about 1.9 quarts and not the 2.5 that was writte. i could be wrong though, other than that, that write up is very much appreciated! youguys are awesome!
 

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Thanks for the write up.. I printed it so I can take it with me when I actually do it. Could someone post the tools needed to complete the oil change? Like what is needed to take off the skid plate .. ect. My bike is stored in Glamis so I need to take the tools with me on my next trip.

Thanks again,
Jarred
 

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blast26 said:
That was a great write up! I swore that the manual did say though that the raptor 660 takes about 1.9 quarts and not the 2.5 that was writte. i could be wrong though, other than that, that write up is very much appreciated! youguys are awesome!
The manual uses Liters primarily for volume measurement so the first amount listed is 1.9 L but in the parentheses it has 2.06 Qt, although my raptor generally takes more than that. Also, you should warm your bike up a bit (thus warming up the oil) because it expands and thats how it should be measured.
 

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Good write up!
I warm mine up, but I don't check it at it's hottest, liek after a big run, just reasonably warm.

I found the filter cross-reference on this site, and was happy that my personal detective work matched what I see here.

There are some in-depth discussions about oil filters all over the www.

Here's what I learned doing my research.
Fram's are down near the bottom of the barrel in quality and filtering ability.
Steer clear of them.

Purolator Pure 1's and the NAPA Gold series get very high ratings.
They contain more filtering media AND have superior flow, they do a better all-round job.

WIX makes NAPA. Put a "5" in front of a NAPA number and it is the WIX number.
NAPA 1356 = WIX 51356 ... pretty easy.

For my 2003 Raptor , I use the longer filters, 3.25" rather than 2.5"
I don't find the extra length gets in the way. Longer is supposed to give you a little more filtering capacity and will help with a small tidbit of extra oil cooling ability, since it has a larger surface area.

I personally use Purolator Pure 1, PL14610 or PL14620
The NAPA Gold 1356 would be my next choice.

If you have the Blue Raptor, the Pure 1 filters are a metallic blue, and almost match.
I have the blue frame paint, and the Pure 1's are really close to that color.
I take the labels off for that custom look. People ask: "Where did you get that Filter!"

The NAPA filters are black, (pretty sure).

The Specs on these replacement Raptor filters are:
Threads= 20 x 1.5mm
14psi by-pass valve
anti-drain back valve
2.3" O.D. gasket
 
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