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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'm getting the quad ready for summer and I have it on jack stands ready for an oil change. I drain the reservoir... no problem. I drain the crank case, and after letting it drain for a considerable while I noticed that if I go to tighten the bolt it breaks free again !? Now, I can get it rather tight, but I'm not comfortable with it being able to be loosened by turning it just a little more. Is that normal? I don't recall that being the case ever.

08 Raptor.

Thanks for any feedback!

J
 

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So, I'm getting the quad ready for summer and I have it on jack stands ready for an oil change. I drain the reservoir... no problem. I drain the crank case, and after letting it drain for a considerable while I noticed that if I go to tighten the bolt it breaks free again !? Now, I can get it rather tight, but I'm not comfortable with it being able to be loosened by turning it just a little more. Is that normal? I don't recall that being the case ever.

08 Raptor.

Thanks for any feedback!

J
The threads are probably stripped in the crank case, you have a problem...........
 

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time to get a heli coil
 

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I had to get mine heelicoiled think it still leaks abit of oil. Tightened it up yesterday think ill put a 660 sump plug in as they are longer :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
time to get a heli coil
Ok, um.. excuse my "elementary ignorance" here, but what's that? :)

My dad was saying back in the day as a GM mechanic, there was a process of resolving stripped oil pan bolts... is that what you're talking about here?

thanks, by the way!!

J
 

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When you change the oil, there's a crush washer that is so post to be replaced. When you torque it down it crushed the washer and if you reuse the washer and you go to spec the ft lbs you can have problems striping the treads out. Aluminum sucks for that kind of stuff. My old F250 it would spit out the spark plugs since the aluminum would get week or the guys putting the plugs in tightened them to much.
 

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Follow this as i do it.

New crush washer everytime you do an oil change. Tighten by hand as much as you can then just give it 1/4 turn with the ratchet.

No stripping as of yet touch wood! This stresses me everytime but im still good to go everytime i do it that way.
 

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I never did the crush washer yet since I found that out after I did my oil change. I screw it in by hand and just sung it up, I'm not even sure if I go the 1/4 turn, just as long as it feels good.
 

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if a heli-coil wont work,you can try drill and tap to the next size bigger.You will need to get a new bolt to match the new thread pitch.
 

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You should use a crush washer and doing it the way i said saves alot of headackes. Plus when you buy a new rappy and do the first oil change there should be a crush washer on the drain bolt. The dealer might be shifty enoug to take it out you never know, mine wasent...But again you never know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guys, thanks for the advice. Since I bought mine used, I was unaware of the crush washer, but now that makes sense.

I'm off of work, so I'm going into the garage right now and going to investigate. I don't mind putting some patient work into my Raptor. I love the thing! Gonna look at the helicoil. Will report back!
J
 

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Bought mine used, first thing I found out when I saw the plug covered in silicone, fixed it only to find out it also needed a new piston and cylinder, joys of craigslist.
 

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I do fit a new crush washer now but one time I didnt and that may have been when the friends stripped. :mad:

I think Yamaha should put a steel thread in at the factory with the amount of money we pay for them :mad:
 

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Ya they should. Aluminum casings are like butter sheesh!!!
 

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Ya they should. Aluminum casings are like butter sheesh!!!

I had a big row with Yamaha about it they tried telling me we have never heard of it happening before :wow:

I said are you shittin me I speak to people in america and its happened to loads of them. :mad:

I love my Raptor but the aftersales support from Yamaha leaves alot to be desired. Had another row with them about my front brake pipe the end sheared off and I found I had no front brakes at 60mph+ down some country lanes. They tried telling me that its never happend before and I must have damaged it??? I said do you think im thick its mounted behind the radiator how the hell could I have damaged it. There answer was prove its our fault :mad::mad::mad:

Dont get me wrong the pipe was about £6 its just the labout that costs to do it my point is it shouldnt have happened on a year old bike. You dont buy a 1 year old car and its had new brake pipes. I have got a 10 year old car and guess what no new brake pipes in site.

Thats my rant over :lol:
 

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With the internet, the world is small.............
And as far as dealers saying that (they never saw this before ), I think that this is the first thing they are taught when they sign up to sell..........
 

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With the internet, the world is small.............
And as far as dealers saying that (they never saw this before ), I think that this is the first thing they are taught when they sign up to sell..........
I take it you have heard that excuse before then mate? Is seriously annoying when they come out with crap like that. :mad:
 

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I take it you have heard that excuse before then mate? Is seriously annoying when they come out with crap like that. :mad:
And you know, it doesnt matter what kind of dealer, whether car, snowmobile, atv or motorcycle, they never saw that problem before.............:wow:
 
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