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Discussion Starter #1
my piston and cam came in today. this tech piston is a thing of beauty!! i wish it was something i didn't have to hide in the cylinder. :lol: i am really looking forward to my first 4 stroke rebuild. my only question is what do i do about honing? i know that i shouldn't use a honing tool because of the nikasil, but i believe i read to just scuff it up a little with a scoth brite pad for the crosshatching. is this right? but the rest i'm good with, thanks to maxsteels youtube vids. the cam should be good, aslong as i can get the rocker shafts out. i didn't get dl's tool. and can figure out the decompressor deal. but thats what the manuals for right? :lol:
 

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You can use a fine 3 bar hone on the cylinder. You can only damage the nikasil with a diamond stone so that's just a myth. Do it at slow speeds for 20 seconds with oil and maintain a 40 degree angle on the crosshatching. And don't forget to orientate and gap you rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok thats good to know. i just got told on another forum to take it to a machine shop and have them hone it with the diamond stone. :lol:eek:k i think my dad has the 3 bar your talkin about, but its old as f#$& so it should be pretty wore out and smooth. :lol: if not i'll have to tear it down tomorrow to get it to the shop fri. thanks.
 

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Yeah don't let anyone use a diamond stone on it or you'll be buying a new cylinder.
Also check your head for warpage while you have it apart. It should be no more than .0012". And if you want a few more pony's then you can resurface your head yourself on a workbench with a piece of glass taped down and a piece of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Using a figure 8 motion start sanding it down. For every .03" you take off you will gain 1 point approx. in compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well i'm goin to the 11.5:1 tech piston because its pump gas safe. i don't want to go with race gas at all. but i have not had my temp light come on or lost any coolant, so how would it warp? i have a straight edge to check that anyway, but just curious. improper head torque may warp it right? this thing is an 08 with maybe 80 hrs on it max, 40 of which i put on it. so it better not be warped. :lol:
 

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They all warp a bit just from heating and cooling as well as tq on the headbolts. Check it just to be sure or you could possibly have a head gasket failure later on. Also make sure to use moly grease on the head bolts when you reinstall them to acheive the proper tq range. But yeah I hear ya on the race fuel. I have an 11.1 cp piston in mine and have to run a mix of 1 gal vp110 to 4 gal premium. But I am pushing 69 hp 54 ft. lbs. tq. with a completley stock head and TB too haha! Just a cam and piston. Stock bore and stroke!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
race fuel with 11:1? thats odd from what i read. hope i don't have to do that. :lol: but cool, thanks for the tips. it would be sweet if i was puttin down those types of #'s! i would never know though, since the closest reputable quad dyno to me is prob 200 miles away.
 

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Well the reason I have to run race mix is because I removed .06 worth of material from my head and jug combined which reduced the size of my combustion chamber. And that makes your compression increase. In my case I increased approx. 2 points which brings me to around 13.1! Then add the dynatek ignition, and 5050 cam with duals and an amsoil intake and you've got a beast on your hands haha! I was hoping to gey away with not using race fuel but the first ride on the new build I was detonating like mad. Sounds just like ball bearings in a soda can! I'm lucky no damage was done.
 

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hey jonny its skiny ill have that map out to u this week end i work out of town and my bike is at home.and i hate to be bad news but when i took my cylinder off on the upper part of the nikasil was wore and it seem ur rite at the border with 80 hours i had to send mine out to re chrome it or sleeve it or buy a new one just be ready sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah i've been preparing myself for that heartbreak. i'm trying to stay positive though, cause that is an estimate of hours. my hourmeter says 27 and i didn't put it on right away. so i am just guesstimating high to be on the safe side. i may tear it apart tonight so i know, but i have to rip a warrior apart first to have the valve seat taken care of tomorrow. so i hope i have time to do it.
 

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I have to disagree with the honing, the 3 bar hones are no good. Ball hones are what you need to do. I didn't use diamond hone tho.
 

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I have to disagree with the honing, the 3 bar hones are no good. Ball hones are what you need to do. I didn't use diamond hone tho.
Don't use a ball hone! I did a lot of research before I honed my cylinder and called around to 4-5 different places and they all warned against the ball hone on this particular nikasil plated cylinder. Then DL700 said the same thing so it's your cylinder and you can do what you want but make sure to call around like I did first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
as long as the nikasil is ok, i think i'll hit it with the grey scotch brite pad and some carb cleaner and see what it looks like. carpenter, did dl tell you the 3 stone was good to use? he is one of the guys on here who knows everything about these motors. i'd believe him over jesus. :wow: yeah, i said it. :lol:
 

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LOL yeah man he is the one who instructed me on how to do it! :) And it worked great for me but if your worried then just do the scotch brite and call it good. Most everybody else does that instead of the honing so you would be just fine either way.
 
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