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Discussion Starter #1
When starting the bike now, even when warm, it takes several cranks to get the engine started. It only does this now that I installed the PC3 with their recommended map for my setup. Is there a way to tweak the map to get it to start better?

 

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What are your mods?? And where is the map from?? Unless you have big mods, it should start the same as before. I would check the spark plug and battery charge.
 

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How is your spark plug and is the battery fully charged.

Look at the map, there is no fuel added until 1000 rpm's. I would bet your starter is normal and cranking much slower then that. Check the wiring and connector pins for proper connections. Remove the PC3 and see how it starts. If it starts good, then I would try another map that close to your mods.

Is your PC3 grounded at the battery?? Very important. Still have a problem, call PC/dynatec tech services. They are very helpful.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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How is your spark plug and is the battery fully charged.

Check the wiring and connector pins for proper connections. Remove the PC3 and see how it starts. If it starts good, then I would try another map that close to your mods.

Is your PC3 grounded at the battery?? Very important. Still have a problem, call PC/dynatec tech services. They are very helpful.

Did you check the wiring?? Is it grounded to the battery. (Many people put the black ground wire to the + positive on the battery. It must go to the - ground. Read your instructions.) Did you check the pins? Remove the PC3, back to stock. Then check for starting.

What I'm saying about your map is there are no changes to the stock map until you reach 1000 rpm's. Then you get the "8" fuel shot for off idle acceleration. It should start and idle the 'same' with or without the PC3.
 

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My PC3 did the same thing on my 06 and 09, I just got a pc5, it fires up on the first time like a stock bike, same tune and all.
 

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What I'm saying about your map is there are no changes to the stock map until you reach 1000 rpm's. Then you get the "8" fuel shot for off idle acceleration. It should start and idle the 'same' with or without the PC3.
his idle adjustment may be set too high so it is hitting that 8 shot, or his valves could need adjusted, or a combination of both.

unhook it and see if it works then, or try the map they have on their website for a stock bike, and a stock with the spark arrestor removed. if it still does it, take it off. if it works then, you had it hooked up wrong, or you need some small tweaks off idle. i have a pcv with a generic map for a gytr and the rest of my mods and it starts fine at the house. when it gets hot it takes an extra crank or 2, and more if i stall it in some tight trees, but i think thats because of the unburned fuel. mine did that when i had my old "cobra" (i think) adjuster, but i had it set too rich off idle.
 

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I was gonna say check the valves too. Mine did that also when after all my dyno pulls the valves were just a touch off and made a huge difference
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you check the wiring?? Is it grounded to the battery. (Many people put the black ground wire to the + positive on the battery. It must go to the - ground. Read your instructions.) Did you check the pins? Remove the PC3, back to stock. Then check for starting.

What I'm saying about your map is there are no changes to the stock map until you reach 1000 rpm's. Then you get the "8" fuel shot for off idle acceleration. It should start and idle the 'same' with or without the PC3.

Ya all wiring is good and solid....I'm an electrician so I used a quality ring terminal and terminated it directly to the battery negative.....

Well ya interestingly enough it acts this way....the guy from DynoJet said to start the bike immediately after turning on the ignition before the fuel pump stops priming the line.....I haven't tried that yet
 

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I noticed that to when I installed my PCIII. But like I was said earlier, hit the starter button before the prime is complete and it would fire right up.
 
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