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I missed this comment my bad Dez. Yeah the elevation is 1-3k foot. I’m mostly at just above sea level. Thick air so I should have lots of power! Since I haven’t given RE the green light on the 11:1 I’ll inquire about an 11.5:1. I’m leery on stroking it though since the horror stories I’ve heard of the bottom end failing. In any case the whole bottom end is getting replaced with new parts and cryo treated.


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I was talking to Daniel (Cuervo) last month and he was saying 11.5:1 wasn't actually 11.5:1, but I don't remember if it was higher or lower then advertised. The newer style Hot Rod cranks break, but there are good cranks out there. My 5mm stroke and 11:1 piston made 11.5:1 (??) corrected, and was considered pump safe. But, just to be sure, I milled .040 from the dome. It must have been enough since it never rattles on 93 with 10% alcohol. I don't run clear since I can't always get it.
 
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Discussion starter · #42 ·
I was talking to Daniel (Cuervo) last month and he was saying 11.5:1 wasn't actually 11.5:1, but I don't remember if it was higher or lower then advertised. The newer style Hot Rod cranks break, but there are good cranks out there. My 5mm stroke and 11:1 piston made 11.5:1 (??) corrected, and was considered pump safe. But, just to be sure, I milled .040 from the dome. It must have been enough since it never rattles on 93 with 10% alcohol. I don't run clear since I can't always get it.


Yeah my other concern is where I live the best I can get most of the time for fuel is 91 octane. It’s unfortunate too because when I was in Wisconsin they had a few stations that sold 110 right at the pump. Out here it’s $60 for 5 gallons of 110 fuel. I’m sure 11.5:1 would be fine still but it may ping a little.

It’s crazy to think my KTM450 dirtbike motor is 13:1 and runs perfectly on 91.


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Do you have a small airport close by. 100LL Avgas isn't that expensive.
 
Quick question, anyone running an aftermarket radiator for cooling? I’m in Arizona and it can get to triple digits. I don’t ride in those temps but I occasionally ride in 90 degree weather so I wanna know if there is any good aftermarket radiators worth upgrading to?


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I ride in Glamis year round with temps well into triple digits on a stock radiator. I do have an ESR temp gause so it let's me know when to relax a little. Never once had a problem with overheating. Run engine ice but not really sure if it helps any. You should consider E85, it is sold in your area and you can get more out of it than pump gas. 14:1 piston vise a 11:1 on pump. Yes you will consume 20 - 30 % more fuel but for the price it is well worth it in my option. It does run alot cooler than regular fuel so in our environment that makes it even better.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I've done that before on some of my other bikes but 100LL AVGAS seems to run a little weird for me. I know its not quite the same composition as race fuel but its a heck of a lot cheaper!
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
You guys know of a good set of front brake rotors and pads for the Raptor? Mine feel like garbage compared to the Brembos on my KTM.
 
In 2 smokes I would always mix 100LL with pump, best of both.
 
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Sorry for the late reply. I'm at about the same elevation and the mods on the bike when dyno'd were, +1 RE head, Webb 4, 11.5:1, 47mm TB, PCIII, FCI (no box), Monster big bores, and full fiber clutch. I replaced the Webb with the 5050 because it was a slouch down low. Then added a dynatek so after those two changes I know it was close to the same as the time on the dyno. Don't worry about the lower end on these, they will hold quite a bit of power before giving out. The newer OEM cranks I've been hearing won't hold as much but that's all hear say off Facebook. My blue bike had a stock bottom end and I'd bounce it off the limiter regularly when riding and it held.

Sorry all but you know how I feel about a certain shop, and technically he wasn't the father of the cam just has his shops name on it. The specs came from someone else.

As far as radiator goes, I have ran a China eBay oversized radiator and had great luck with it. The only reason I did that was due to a prior wreck that messed up my stock one. I've ran stock out on the dunes here in triple digits (even hotter on the sand) and had zero issues. So if i were you I'd run the stock rad and see how it does. Swapping them out is easy and it will give you a little more money for performance parts on your build right now.

If I were in your shoes and debating between +1 or +2 head I'd look harder at the +2. It really shouldn't affect what you are building now but I may be wrong and the price between the two is low. So if you do plan on going bigger later with the motor you'd already have the head done with +2. Instead of shelling out more coin to do it again.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Sorry for the late reply. I'm at about the same elevation and the mods on the bike when dyno'd were, +1 RE head, Webb 4, 11.5:1, 47mm TB, PCIII, FCI (no box), Monster big bores, and full fiber clutch. I replaced the Webb with the 5050 because it was a slouch down low. Then added a dynatek so after those two changes I know it was close to the same as the time on the dyno. Don't worry about the lower end on these, they will hold quite a bit of power before giving out. The newer OEM cranks I've been hearing won't hold as much but that's all hear say off Facebook. My blue bike had a stock bottom end and I'd bounce it off the limiter regularly when riding and it held.

Sorry all but you know how I feel about a certain shop, and technically he wasn't the father of the cam just has his shops name on it. The specs came from someone else.

As far as radiator goes, I have ran a China eBay oversized radiator and had great luck with it. The only reason I did that was due to a prior wreck that messed up my stock one. I've ran stock out on the dunes here in triple digits (even hotter on the sand) and had zero issues. So if i were you I'd run the stock rad and see how it does. Swapping them out is easy and it will give you a little more money for performance parts on your build right now.

If I were in your shoes and debating between +1 or +2 head I'd look harder at the +2. It really shouldn't affect what you are building now but I may be wrong and the price between the two is low. So if you do plan on going bigger later with the motor you'd already have the head done with +2. Instead of shelling out more coin to do it again.


I agree [emoji817] on everything you said! Yeah I’m seriously debating on going +2 valves and 54mm tb. I may see what RE thinks on the +2 with 50mm that I have and if I can get away with it. As for the bottom end, I’m gonna see what they think and if it looks good I’ll cryo it as is and run it. The cryo to the whole motor is pretty exciting stuff! I know most shops do it to increase life on parts so I’ll let you guys know what kinda numbers she makes when she’s back together. Gonna def run stock rad since everyone here has good experience with it. Since RE is doing the head I’m going to get their take on the 5050 but I’m fairly convinced that’s the cam I need unless they can prove otherwise.

Updates on the frame Cammy. So I did a ton of digging and found nothing on gussets. I started tracing over where I thought I’d make some but the more I look at the frame the more I realize it’s probably not going to be necessary. I ran the bike hard for close to 5 years and beat the ever loving crud out of it and didn’t see so much as a single weld cracking. At this point I’d say I’m gonna chance it and run it as is and get the thing sent off to powder. Funny thing is it’s going to have I’m hoping a lot less stress on it with the new suspension and hopefully more rigid motor. ??


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Discussion starter · #50 ·
Also I will start posting some pics here soon once parts start rolling in and it starts getting pieced back together![emoji16]


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I agree [emoji817] on everything you said! Yeah I’m seriously debating on going +2 valves and 54mm tb. I may see what RE thinks on the +2 with 50mm that I have and if I can get away with it. As for the bottom end, I’m gonna see what they think and if it looks good I’ll cryo it as is and run it. The cryo to the whole motor is pretty exciting stuff! I know most shops do it to increase life on parts so I’ll let you guys know what kinda numbers she makes when she’s back together. Gonna def run stock rad since everyone here has good experience with it. Since RE is doing the head I’m going to get their take on the 5050 but I’m fairly convinced that’s the cam I need unless they can prove otherwise.

Updates on the frame Cammy. So I did a ton of digging and found nothing on gussets. I started tracing over where I thought I’d make some but the more I look at the frame the more I realize it’s probably not going to be necessary. I ran the bike hard for close to 5 years and beat the ever loving crud out of it and didn’t see so much as a single weld cracking. At this point I’d say I’m gonna chance it and run it as is and get the thing sent off to powder. Funny thing is it’s going to have I’m hoping a lot less stress on it with the new suspension and hopefully more rigid motor. ??


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I'll agree with you too! I thought that someone still made them and if they did it would be cheap insurance. I'm like you, I've beat on two of these and never had a issue. So I'll probably end up going the same route :lol:.

Last time I talked to John he said his 611 cam does the same kind of numbers that the 5050 does. Tries to keep the overrev like the Webb 4 and low end tq like the smaller cams. But also talked to Brandon Henry and he says the HotCam 3 does almost as well and way less stress on the valve train. And I can honestly attest to the HC performing well because two of my friends (brothers) had similar setups as the build I previously mentioned only difference was who ported the heads and the cams, I had the 5050, one had the megacylce x4, and the other had HC3. As much as I hated to admit it the HC3 bike would usually win by half to a full bike length. And we would all trade out and still have the same outcome.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
I'll agree with you too! I thought that someone still made them and if they did it would be cheap insurance. I'm like you, I've beat on two of these and never had a issue. So I'll probably end up going the same route :lol:.



Last time I talked to John he said his 611 cam does the same kind of numbers that the 5050 does. Tries to keep the overrev like the Webb 4 and low end tq like the smaller cams. But also talked to Brandon Henry and he says the HotCam 3 does almost as well and way less stress on the valve train. And I can honestly attest to the HC performing well because two of my friends (brothers) had similar setups as the build I previously mentioned only difference was who ported the heads and the cams, I had the 5050, one had the megacylce x4, and the other had HC3. As much as I hated to admit it the HC3 bike would usually win by half to a full bike length. And we would all trade out and still have the same outcome.


So many decisions ahaha but that’s half the fun! HC3, 5050 and 611, got it I’ll look into all 3. Thanks buddy!


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Discussion starter · #53 ·
Had some down time tonight so I rebuilt the old calipers. Eagle One Aluminum cleaner does wonders as well on making aluminum look new!



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Here is a graph John sent me back in Dec 16'. 5050 vs RE611. Told build was a pump gas 778 w/ 50mm TB dyno pull on 5050 then replaced cam to RE611 and then another pull to compare. The bike would have had better numbers for both pulls with a 54mm TB from what I was told. The web 4 cam has steeper lobes and is harder on valve train than both cams mentioned above.
IMO the HC3 is no where near a comparison to any of the above cams.
 

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Discussion starter · #55 ·
Here is a graph John sent me back in Dec 16'. 5050 vs RE611. Told build was a pump gas 778 w/ 50mm TB dyno pull on 5050 then replaced cam to RE611 and then another pull to compare. The bike would have had better numbers for both pulls with a 54mm TB from what I was told. The web 4 cam has steeper lobes and is harder on valve train than both cams mentioned above.
IMO the HC3 is no where near a comparison to any of the above cams.


Was the higher one the 611 or 5050? Those numbers are amazing! I’m not going 778cc but it gives me a good idea of the power. When I spoke to John at RE he told me 70hp would be easy on 11:1 ss/sb with +1 valves and 50mm tb. Kinda the number I’m shooting for at the moment. Keeps a balance between performance and reliability.


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Here is a graph John sent me back in Dec 16'. 5050 vs RE611. Told build was a pump gas 778 w/ 50mm TB dyno pull on 5050 then replaced cam to RE611 and then another pull to compare. The bike would have had better numbers for both pulls with a 54mm TB from what I was told. The web 4 cam has steeper lobes and is harder on valve train than both cams mentioned above.
IMO the HC3 is no where near a comparison to any of the above cams.


Was the higher one the 611 or 5050? Those numbers are amazing! I’m not going 778cc but it gives me a good idea of the power. When I spoke to John at RE he told me 70hp would be easy on 11:1 ss/sb with +1 valves and 50mm tb. Kinda the number I’m shooting for at the moment. Keeps a balance between performance and reliability.


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Sorry I did not mention in the previous post. Yes the black line was the 611 cam. 70hp will be easy for you to achieve. I think Cammy stated earlier...if you want to go bigger in the future then do a +2 head now. I have a RE +1 head on my ss/sb bike because I have no plans of going big bore on that bike. It is nothing but grins ah oh shits riding it. I also have a RE+2 that was port matched to a 54mm TB and opened up a little more that will go on my 795 I'm putting together. Either way you will hit your mark.
 
I agree the HC3 isn't close to either one in numbers, but in real world races it is....Somehow it is. I would've never believed it until my 5050 got beat time after time by a HC3.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Sorry I did not mention in the previous post. Yes the black line was the 611 cam. 70hp will be easy for you to achieve. I think Cammy stated earlier...if you want to go bigger in the future then do a +2 head now. I have a RE +1 head on my ss/sb bike because I have no plans of going big bore on that bike. It is nothing but grins ah oh shits riding it. I also have a RE+2 that was port matched to a 54mm TB and opened up a little more that will go on my 795 I'm putting together. Either way you will hit your mark.


Just curious is any of your parts polished internally or cryo treated? ISO and polish supposedly bumps power up a few hp. I’m curious to see what extra gain I will get because I’m having the whole motor polished, iso and cryo treated.


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Sorry I did not mention in the previous post. Yes the black line was the 611 cam. 70hp will be easy for you to achieve. I think Cammy stated earlier...if you want to go bigger in the future then do a +2 head now. I have a RE +1 head on my ss/sb bike because I have no plans of going big bore on that bike. It is nothing but grins ah oh shits riding it. I also have a RE+2 that was port matched to a 54mm TB and opened up a little more that will go on my 795 I'm putting together. Either way you will hit your mark.


Just curious is any of your parts polished internally or cryo treated? ISO and polish supposedly bumps power up a few hp. I’m curious to see what extra gain I will get because I’m having the whole motor polished, iso and cryo treated.


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No cryo or polished parts on the sb/ss motor when it did 71hp. I just installed a cryoed 14:1 piston, rings, and Regina DR chain on that bike and getting it re-tuned for E-85 and C-12 once I get the 795 together. The 795 has everything cryoed and polished. Curious what both bikes will do.
 
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