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Discussion Starter #1
Took the girl out to our place in Napa and got some riding in. Was a great day till the thunder and lighting rolled in.
I also managed to use the autotune on my new build and made a map. Was really easy. The bad news is that on pavement my clutch slips in 4th at peak HP.
Anyhow, here’s some pics!






 

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Discussion Starter #2
Buying this new Raptor has exposed shortfalls in my current build. I’m thinking about ditching my Gytr bumper for one of the new style oem ones to clean up the front.

What are your opinions on a wider axle or using wheel spacers all around? I widened the front end by 1” on the 09. The new quad feels so much more stable with that LT and +4 axle, its hard getting back on the other one.

And I’m pretty sure ive got to pick up some of the flexx bars. Damn those bastards are comfy.

Please help me spend more money
 

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That's a good lookin pair you have. Be sure to swap the parts you want before she gets used to them as hers, lol.

Check the lever on the clutch cover for free play. Loosen at the handle bars if needed. If you have free play, you can buy HD springs on ebay, or, add some spacer washers under the springs. No free play the clutch is toast. For a replacement, don't get Tusk or any with dimpled steel plates. For new, one word, "Driveline Performance", from ebay. OR, I have some good used clutch kits for sale, haha. And, DO the full fiber mod.
 

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Take her black swing arm and extended axle to put on yours. Then put spacers on her bike, as chances are she won't be jumping it like you. Stock axles and spacers don't do well with jumps. I might have a Alba +4 axle left but I think the chrome was rusting IIRC.

I may also have a bumper like hers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For sure thanks. I actually bought that driveline performance clutch and installed already with full fiber mod. I ran the clutch lever snug, but I can push the arm on the cover a bit to know there’s slack. Maybe I will try just giving it a bunch of slack and see if it still slips. Only two hours or so of ride time on it so it’s probably fine if I’m fact it was too tight.

And idk about +4, I’m thinking maybe a +2 tops. How does it affect handling have the rear as wide as the front?
 

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New clutches will need a few adjustments as the fibers seat in. Always adjust after everything is warmed up.
 

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And idk about +4, I’m thinking maybe a +2 tops. How does it affect handling have the rear as wide as the front?
Slightly wider in the front is the way to go. Being wider in back means it leans on the outside front tire causing understeer, being wider in the front means it’ll lean on outside rear tire, causing oversteer. Wider front should also do better with side-to-side jarring. A wider rear would mean the solid axle transfers most of the torque to the bike before the independent front gets a chance to soak it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Didn’t know either of those things thanks guys
 

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Slightly wider in the front is the way to go. Being wider in back means it leans on the outside front tire causing understeer, being wider in the front means it’ll lean on outside rear tire, causing oversteer. Wider front should also do better with side-to-side jarring. A wider rear would mean the solid axle transfers most of the torque to the bike before the independent front gets a chance to soak it up.
It's always been a good rule of thumb to make the rear equal to or slightly narrower than the front.
 

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You can use spacers front and rear, but... Spacers on the rear may bend the factory axle during jumps because of additional leverage. More front spacing increase bump steer. I once had 2x4 wheels (2in in x 4in out from center)and had to wrestle it to go straight. Went to 3x3 wheels and night and day difference. Any off set more than factory will increase bearing wear, but I've never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah yeah that’s true, I forgot about the scrub. Same reason I went 5+2 on my XPT. I will probably hold off on it.
 

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For sure thanks. I actually bought that driveline performance clutch and installed already with full fiber mod. I ran the clutch lever snug, but I can push the arm on the cover a bit to know there’s slack. Maybe I will try just giving it a bunch of slack and see if it still slips. Only two hours or so of ride time on it so it’s probably fine if I’m fact it was too tight.
My clutch would slip in Glamis after warming it up. I did the same as you with having no slack at the lever but checked at the clutch with my hand. I loosened it til I had a tiny bit of slack at the lever and it totally hooked up. Although, I don’t think the clutch fully disengages the gear. I’m running ASV levers and it hits the starter/headlight switch cluster. I can easily release the clutch and get it moving without the throttle in first and even second gear, and quick launches are way easier. I have a feeling that comes at a cost. Anyone know if I’m gonna burn up my clutch real quick like this? I make sure not to idle in gear.
 

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Why don’t you loosen the lever or the switch set up and adjust either to clear the lever? I don’t have any issue like that with mine.
 

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My clutch would slip in Glamis after warming it up. I did the same as you with having no slack at the lever but checked at the clutch with my hand. I loosened it til I had a tiny bit of slack at the lever and it totally hooked up. Although, I don’t think the clutch fully disengages the gear. I’m running ASV levers and it hits the starter/headlight switch cluster.
IIRC I was able to twist the headlight switch and there was a thinner part of the housing that allowed more clutch lever movement.
 

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Why don’t you loosen the lever or the switch set up and adjust either to clear the lever? I don’t have any issue like that with mine.
IIRC I was able to twist the headlight switch and there was a thinner part of the housing that allowed more clutch lever movement.
Yeah y’all are right, and the perch isn’t complete flush against the switch assembly either. Is complete and total clutch disengagement necessary or can I leave it and enjoy the easy starts and not mashing my ring finger with the lever?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Depends which levers you have. I bought the asv shorties and they hit the stock cluster good, but like Dez said you can rotate it to help get a bit more clearance. I just couldn’t live with the angled cluster and hitting it with the lever, so I bought a lower profile three position switch for the headlights, a push button kill switch to use as a starter button, and eliminated the stop/run switch. This eliminated the cluster and allowed me to pull the clutch lever flush to the grip.
Do note though, you can’t run high and low beams from a three position. You have to have two separate two position switches, so I just eliminated the highs.

Still though, I had to angle the lever out further than I liked to get complete disengagement. After adjusting free play in the clutch, I adjusted the lever further away from the bars till I could rev it in first gear with the lever pulled to the grip and it wouldn’t want to roll forward.
 

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Do note though, you can’t run high and low beams from a three position. You have to have two separate two position switches, so I just eliminated the highs
I’m confused, you mean high and low at the same time? Why not just set it up like the factory 3 position with off, low, and high? I have a light bar so I’d probably do high and low + light bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You can’t run high and low beams from the same switch, like a three position. If you read the wiring schematic in the manual fir the headlights, you’ll see why. The factory switch is not a true three position switch, instead using metal plates to bridge circuits internally.

It works like this - The low beam switch energizes the low beam circuit relay and thus power to the headlights. When you “flip” the switch to high it is actually still powering the low beam circuit, but now also bridging that power to a two position relay downstream from the low beam relay on the low beam circuit.

This downstream relay is not an “on/off“ type, but is an “A/B” type. That is, without power it completes circuit A, ie the low beam lights. As soon as the relay is powered it flips from contact A to contact B, which leads to the high beam lights.

So you see, you must have a switch to energize the entire circuit, and another switch to energize the mid circuit relay to divert power to the high beams. Thus, two separate switches are needed that can be set to ON at the same time.
 

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Ah I see, I just came across your older discussion about this. Wouldn’t splitting the low beam wire to position 2 and 3 and then wiring high beam to 3 do the same as the factory switch?
 

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Yeah y’all are right, and the perch isn’t complete flush against the switch assembly either. Is complete and total clutch disengagement necessary or can I leave it and enjoy the easy starts and not mashing my ring finger with the lever?
No clutch slippage is good. If there was a choice, I would go for complete engagement instead of disengagement. Slippage while under power will create more wear and heat then slight slippage at idle.
 
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