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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone please help.. I dont really know a thing about ATV's. I just got and used 03 raptor 660r yesterday on a trade. It started fine and i drove it around for and hour or so and put it up. This morning I went to start it and it was having a hard time turniing over but appeared to have pleanty of power. it stepped back and took a look at it and there was fuel comming out of the exhaust where it connects to the engine also it was blowing fuel out the exhaust pipe looking a little more into it i opened up the air filter and also there, there was fuel puddled up in the box.... can anyone help.. i do have some knowledge on motors but not much anyone know what could be causing this... thanks in advance for any advice...


josh
 

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probably a stuck needle in one or both of the carbs. Your gonna want to pull the carbs off and clean them up. Also going to want to drop the oil and see if there is any gas in that. Its a good idea to shut off the gas when you park it, so this doesn't happen.
 

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when you are done riding its a good idea to shut off the gas at the tank so this kind of thing don't happen. If there is fuel in your oil that will cause lots of engine damage. Its just cheap insurance.
 

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Master of the Electron
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The only way a stuck float valve will fill up the airbox (instead of leave gas all over the floor) is if the drain tubes are plugged or their ends raised above the carbs... or you stood the bike up on its rear wheels for transport/storage?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the drain tubes, are those located right below both carbs?? If so that could be the problem i Dont have any tubes there it almost looks like there is a cylicone based sealent sealing the two knobes that look as if there is supposed to be something attached.
 

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In that case you may be filling the cylinder with fuel whenever the bike is stopped, and running quite rich (or in this case expelling that additional fuel through the exhaust) when you're not.
 

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Yes, those MUST be open... the previous owner probably plugged them cuz he didn't know how to fix the leak generated inside the carb... All of the symptoms you have described can be a function of those plugged holes AND the float valves leaking inside the carbs.

Just to be sure: At the bottom of the float bowl is a screw pointing horizontally, and just below that a short, cylindrical boss that's supposed to have a drain tube slipped over it. The screw is loosened to drain the bowls through that tube, AND the overflow tube from inside the carb also connects to that boss - so when the carb's float valve leaks, and the bowl overflows, excess fuel comes out that bottom hole, into the drain tube and leaks onto the garage floor - NOT into the engine and airbox as in your case.

Time to pull the carbs off, clean out those plugged holes, clean and/or repair the leaky float valves and, as long as you're there, all the jets and passages. Also time to change your oil, as you may have a fair amount of gas in it too, from this leak.

When you're all done, I'll bet you're going to love how that thing runs!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
more issues!!!!!!

Got the carbs clean and man they were nasty, def. the first problem. The battery is dead so for me to cycle the new oil and drain and refel and cycle i had to jump the wheeler. Once i hooked up the positive wire the wheeler instantly attempted to crank. (with key of ignition switch off and even with the emergency rip line out) The 4 wheeler did fire and whit smoke came out exhaust for a couple minutes but cleared up. Where im stuck is the fact that it instantly started to crank also once fired up the minute i removed the positive it died. The only thing i can think of is the starter coil however unsure weather or not that would effect it dieing once i removed the positive. Any ideas????

josh
 

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Master of the Electron
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I can understand how the starter could turn when connecting up the battery - if the solenoid's contacts were stuck together, they can weld themselves... but the bike wouldn't start and run - the CDI gets it's power from the run/stop switch which gets its power from the key switch.

You say 'rip line' - you mean a tethered kill switch? Something tells me the previous owner has done some modificatios to the wiring and they are causing problems...

How proficient are you at reading the wiring diagram and using a meter to trace things out? We can help you if you can do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yes the tethered kill switch, I do know how to read wire diagrams, and use a multimeter havent been able to track down diagram though. My confusion is that the first day i got it it started fine with the key and ignition??? when i hook up the postitive it fires up just dies witch is throwing me off cause both key and ignition can be off??? the previouse owner def. made mods, as far as aftermarket parts go so he could have messed with the wireing also.
 

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The full diagram is in the factory service manual and you can download that free from a sticky at the top of the 660 Maintenance section.
 
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