PROBLEM #1
I am racking my brain on this - I just got the Houser XC A arms in +.5” with Slicast and installed yesterday. On both sides I have it set to -2 on the adjuster, which to my eyeball still looks looks like a degree or more of positive caster.
This morning I re-bled stock brakes, tightened up tie rods and greased all joints. I cranked as much as I could till it got really tight, then I measured the toe just by center of tread on front and back and it’s toe in by about 1&1/2”. I measured on the jack stand at full droop and also after coming to a stop on level ground without using brakes.
2’-11&1/4” in front on front tires center to center on tread and 3’-0&3/4” center to center in rear of front tires. I’m thinking, “Ok no problem. Crank these tie rods in 3/4” either side....” Except I only have at the very most 1/2” of thread left maximum on either side of the tie rods, accounting for threads on both sides of a singe tie rod. And that’s being generous. The tread itself deviates +/- 1/8” from center too.
What gives? Tell me I’m measuring the wrong way. I have never aligned a front end before, and I only disassembled the stock front end to install this kit. Wheels, knuckles, and everything except the Houser kit is stock. Toe-in is supposed to be 1/4” maximum center to center on the wheels right? Not 1/4” to center of the frame, for a total of 1/2”? Because it’s going to be one heck of a time trying to get that setting.
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PROBLEM #2
The camber is messed up bad. I have negative camber by a degree or two on the right hand side and a considerable amount more of positive camber on the left hand side. I’m talking with the 10” wheel on, and on the ground suspension compressed accordingly, it’s 3/8” out at the top. The upper Slicast ball joints are damn near identical with each other as I measured before hand. Now installed they are within 1/8” of each other, and that’s after I cheated the one side to bring it into negative camber and it’s still way the F out. I can get another 1/4” or 3/8” out of it but it’s going to prohibit me from using the on-the-fly Slicast adjuster. Not sure what’s going on here.
I got my line laser out and measured centers on everything and the Houser kit is true. My level is true too, according to the laser. The knuckles are true as far as the ball joint centers go. Only thing left I can think of is that the hub from the factory has bored wrong? This bike has 40 hours on it total btw.
Someone please help, I am at a loss of what to do. I really don’t want to just live with the wrong toe and camber. The pics I attached are of the side that’s giving me trouble with the camber. Both sides tie rods are similar set.
I am racking my brain on this - I just got the Houser XC A arms in +.5” with Slicast and installed yesterday. On both sides I have it set to -2 on the adjuster, which to my eyeball still looks looks like a degree or more of positive caster.
This morning I re-bled stock brakes, tightened up tie rods and greased all joints. I cranked as much as I could till it got really tight, then I measured the toe just by center of tread on front and back and it’s toe in by about 1&1/2”. I measured on the jack stand at full droop and also after coming to a stop on level ground without using brakes.
2’-11&1/4” in front on front tires center to center on tread and 3’-0&3/4” center to center in rear of front tires. I’m thinking, “Ok no problem. Crank these tie rods in 3/4” either side....” Except I only have at the very most 1/2” of thread left maximum on either side of the tie rods, accounting for threads on both sides of a singe tie rod. And that’s being generous. The tread itself deviates +/- 1/8” from center too.
What gives? Tell me I’m measuring the wrong way. I have never aligned a front end before, and I only disassembled the stock front end to install this kit. Wheels, knuckles, and everything except the Houser kit is stock. Toe-in is supposed to be 1/4” maximum center to center on the wheels right? Not 1/4” to center of the frame, for a total of 1/2”? Because it’s going to be one heck of a time trying to get that setting.
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PROBLEM #2
The camber is messed up bad. I have negative camber by a degree or two on the right hand side and a considerable amount more of positive camber on the left hand side. I’m talking with the 10” wheel on, and on the ground suspension compressed accordingly, it’s 3/8” out at the top. The upper Slicast ball joints are damn near identical with each other as I measured before hand. Now installed they are within 1/8” of each other, and that’s after I cheated the one side to bring it into negative camber and it’s still way the F out. I can get another 1/4” or 3/8” out of it but it’s going to prohibit me from using the on-the-fly Slicast adjuster. Not sure what’s going on here.
I got my line laser out and measured centers on everything and the Houser kit is true. My level is true too, according to the laser. The knuckles are true as far as the ball joint centers go. Only thing left I can think of is that the hub from the factory has bored wrong? This bike has 40 hours on it total btw.
Someone please help, I am at a loss of what to do. I really don’t want to just live with the wrong toe and camber. The pics I attached are of the side that’s giving me trouble with the camber. Both sides tie rods are similar set.