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Discussion Starter #1
Man is the raptor hurt bad. Damn header bolt broke off. Was rideing and noticed a weird noise saw i was missing a header bolt hopeing it backed out it turn out to be broken.

I dont thank the damn bolt was the right type was differnt from left header and was standered zinc stell plated bolts. Anyways hopeing my poor but could fix this i went to town........... dump 40 on a tap and die set from sears pos crafts man and a new drill and bits.

Got home drilled 1/16 hole then 5/36 good then try to use the tap tried screwing it in both direction and boom pos craftman bit fails tip brakes off the tap and i cant drill thru it. I left helpless with a messed up header bolt thread hole.

O what am I to do please help mad dog and others I dont know what to do other than going to extream of takeing engine off/top end and takeing it to a machine shop. I can see alot of money going into this project and hopefully there will be money to beable to go into it. im pretty poor and I cant afford takeing this thang to the atv shop. I need to do what ever and cheapest way i can. I hate being cheap but i went out on limb and bought craftsmen over cheapo stuff and even thou they have lifetime warranty that wont fix the fact the cheap bit broke off and screwed me sideways. Please help i like to get it runing again before winter comes
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Im so bummem out im going to sleep I got a quad i cant ride and a 44buck alarm system i saved my last penny for coeming in the mail tomorrow. i hope i awake to some replys. I fear of engine removel and if that happen my question is can a machine shop dril and rethreadthe hole are will i need to take off my hole cylender head?
 

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man i feel for ya i really donno what to say i think maddog is the man this time but your idea of the machine shop is a good one and as of right now your best bet unless someone is able to help you witha better idea

this is why me and dad have over 30 grand in top of the line tools well that and he works at toyota so he needs them :lol:

best of luck to ya b'y
 

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You've probably removed too much from the bolt to try again with another size, and it doesn't sound like heat will solve your problem either. From the posts you've made in the past I'm presuming that you don't have the necessary skills and experience to go any farther on this problem yourself. Unless you've got a machinist/mechanic friend or relative you're going to need to take it to a pro. Sorry ak but I think you're SOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I own a factory service manule have read it many hours and study it I have alot of tools I also have torque wrench and many other tools. I never been a diy guy till this year. I removed and installed a 350 engine and tranny with little knowledge and help.

I admit that I am very new and have ask lots of questions in the past. My post always come out like im a tottaly newbi which i am but I have learn alot from all of you and alot from the manule. I kinda fill down since you dont thank i should go any further. But I am confadent in my self to remove the engine. And if i have to I fell like I can take it apart if needed.

Now I am confadent in my self to take it off and apart. I am very carefull person and i fell I wont break anythang or do it wrong. I will and have already study the removeing engine and the other diagrames to remove the head and top half. I spent lots hours reading the hole 328 page manlue over and over . I will tag ever bolt and washer and bag them and record and map out everythang I should have all the tools if not i will buy them. I will torque everythang down to right spec. I had the manule and spent many many hours reading it and understand it.

Maddog i know from my post i sound like a tottaly dumb bass and a newbi but I am a careful person i ask million questions i want to do it right and i thank i have the skills to remove the engine atlest and if so go into it. I dont have any money to spend on labor other than the machine shop nore will i have the funds in the near future. I also like to stay out of the shop so i can learn. If from this post you thank i still should not attempt this let me know cause you are one of my raptor roll models and i listin to you. The bad thang is . is that the tip of the harden steel tap broke off and is stuck inside the pre drilled hole thru the zinc plated stell bolt. I have called around and only found 1 machine shop 65hr i have to take off the head cause they said they have to burn out the tap and tap it out and said it shouldnt take no longer than hr. This will be alot of work for me to do and im still looking for a easyer way without doing all that but if it comes down to it than yes i want to do this my self remove the head and take it to them.
 

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Can you get a picture?
I have some years in machining and still dread broken taps. They can be removed with a hammer and punch by breaking them into little pieces but in an aluminum head it will be more difficult.
Plan on pulling the head. You said you'd bag and tag all the parts, good plan. I save my old oil bottles and cut the top's off for this.

How far did you get before the tap broke? How many turns in to the head that is.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would like to get some pics but i dont have a good camera i try to take one but i dont thank it come out clear. I did not get many turns into it before it broke It did`nt even get started good. I have a cheap clear unison mediume point ink pen in front of me and the size of the metal tip is about how much is in the bolt in the middle................. Try to take pics but they come out all fuzzy sorry no pics
 

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Try a hammer and punch, you might be able to break it off. Remove as many parts as necessary to get all the room possible. The oil tank might be a good idea to, if you miss it won't take a hit well, and it's expensive. Caution with the bottom line, it's been problems for many others.
I'd also try to direct to hit toward the top or bottom, if you aim from the side you may damage the hole for the exhaust pipe. The top and bottom have the most material to support the hit.
When you drilled, did any aluminum come out, or did you manage to get thru the center of the bolt?
A bit of advice when purchasing taps, your best off buying 2 flute, thier stronger.
What size did you drill the hole, and for what size tap?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I predrilled if i remember right 1/16 and 5/64 hole and the tap was the smallest in the crafts man metric tap and die set. It was about the size of a no 2 tap i would say and i bought bit for reconmendation for no 1 and 2 taps the craftsman set did not come with instructions are size listed other than what size the set covers. I predrilled about 1/8inch in with the 1/16 bit and then used the 5/64 started to screw in the tap and the tip broke off. I tried to drill it out with 2 titnume 1/16 bits but they keep breaking and i was`nt geting anywhere.
 

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You'll never drill a tap out with a hand drill. I'll look for a tap drill chart and post it later. If your not deep you should be able to get the tap out.
What set did you but from sears? The part number, should be able to see whats included in the set.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
craftsman 52348 19pc metric tap and die no spec on website other than 19pc. I already took it back so i cant read the display again I know it started out at a 2mm or 2.5. I tried grabing it with some right angle fingle nail clipers and and very tiny pair niddle nose no luch. tried some tiny flat head no luck. Some one on raptortranny said something abould mig welding a nut in place but i dont know what thats about are if it wil even work in my situation. I thank I will take off the fenders tank and carbs tomorrow tag and bag them and read some more of the factory service book and wait for more comments I wish i had a good camera that take closeups will try tomorrow to find a camera.
 

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The welding is a good idea, place a nut over the broken stud and weld together. The heat does a good job of loosening the stud.
How big of a town you life in, should be able to find a weld shop or machine shop thats familliar with this problem.
If you used a 5/64 drill the tap had to be very small, somewhere in the 2.5mm size? You should be able to break this fairly easily. I'd hold off till you decice on how the entire repair is going to be done. Talk to a few locals about your situation and options.
The easiest way to mess this up is to drill out the stud and be off center with the drill. The drill will walk into the aluminum and move the location of the hole and the mating part won't line up.
 

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On A side note I like to use a piece of cardbord for storing removed bolts makes it easy to label and on some parts you can place them in the same patern from which you pulled them so even if you have four or five bolts from the same part you can mark and draw how each one goes along with which direction. Also I like to put the bolt right back into the places I got them from after I remove the part.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I may mis lead you on the welding a nut idea. The stud is broke off a little pass the engine surface or little pass where i thank thread starts but not much so basicly broke off in the engine. I was thanking someone was talking about welding a nut to the engine and use it to tightin the header to. I thank i may have been stupid for thanking that would work. I could see it work There is almost anof room between engine and header pipe mount for a nut to be welded but this seems like a hillbilly fix and and i wouldnt thank ther be anof thread on the nut to securely tightin in to. Sorry if i mislead you. Called talk to local good tech dan at local atv dealer ship his a yamaha train tech and i exsplain my full situatuion to him over phone he said that it`s going to be hell and they might not even be able to do it. and if they could they charge like 140+ He said my best bet is to take off top end while engine is on bike and take it to machine shop get them to do it cause it be cheaper and while im there get them to slightly hone it and put in some new gaskets and rings while im at it. Im still open to more opions to what to do but im guessing im going to need to take off the top end and head and get it to machine shop. I thank im going to go ahead and remove front fenders tank and carb while i wait on more replys and decide if takeing off the head is my only option.
 

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Never had the impression of welding a nut to the head, weld the nut to the remaining stud, but as you said if the stud is below the head surface then it may not be possible.
How far below the head is the stud?
If your pulling the head take it to a welding shop and talk to them, I'd look for someone that does TIG welding.
I removed a broken bolt in my subframe by welding another bolt to it. Works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Stud is broke off just a hair past the head surface:( wish ther was some stud sticking out. went out and bought some thin masket tape 4differnt color markers and some color dots and 3 differnt size zip lock bags to inventory each bolt and where it came from. The rain has came in for a few days so i have to work inbetween them times and i have to seal off exhust holes and intake holes. Have not yet wrenched on it plan to take off atlest the front fenders tonight and unlosen the tank bolts and tomorrow I will remove the tank air box and carbs and the last header. I will then probley seal off everythang and wait till next day to start with the top end. I will order a complete top end gasket kit soon after takeing it off what brand you guys reconmed? also will i need locktite when reinstalling any bolts?
 

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Being I work for a machine shop, I'd say take it to one. Even if they total the thread, any decent machine shop will be able to plug or Helicoil the thread for you. Absolute worst case they would have to send it out so it can be burned out with an edm.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I found some new info for you guys. OK Since im pretty new but not dumb I found out today that there should be 4 studs and nuts to hold my 2 headers on. well there is only 2studs which are in good shape that holds my shifter side header on "header 1" and the back brake lever side the header "header 2" was not held in by studs! When it was stolen they must have broke them i did see a tiny dent on the header. They must of had to taken it somewhere and goton it drilles and threaded cause this header is held in by zinc plated bolts not studs and nuts. It`s pretty intresting to me maybe that could exsplain while the top end has been into before. Please verfiy my find ther should be 4studs and nuts not 2studs and 2 bolts? I got raptor loaded up no fenders or header on it damn drizzle rain got the exhust holes covered with duct tape tried to seal off the hole and around it with lots of wide duct tape and put a tarp over it and tied it down how that will keep the holes from geting water or dirt in them. Going to 2 shops in a moment to get them to look at it to see if i could get a stud welded insted of tapping and if i need to take my head off. Hope to come back with good news but PRobley not :( :eek: BTW nice rappy 700 Guamraptor700
 

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The factory setup is 4 studs and 4 nuts. I have used bolts and never had problems. Anyone know of a disadvantage to using bolts?
Did you find the gaskets in the exhaust ports?
 
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