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Has anyone tried to pollish there rear subframe? i know its alluminum but i was wondering if you cou

  • Has anyone tried to pollish there rear subframe?

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  • I know its alluminum but i was wondering if you could pollish it yourself?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey i was just wondering if this was possible to pollish pretty much just the sub frame yourself or if you couldnt do that?
 

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If its alu. you can polish it.....Ive done a few bike frames, dirty dirty job, but when done right looks good :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what do you think would be the best way to do it? it kinda has a rough texture on it so would i sand it down and then just keep pollishing?
 

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Its been a few years since Ive done some polishing but on the lower parts of a bike frame (near footrest) its a bit rough also.....I believe I started out with some 80 (if it was rough) and 120 if it was a smooth piece after that move up to like some 220 or 240 and then I finished off with some 360 or so (the better you sand the less beating your gonna have to do with a polisher to get the shine...the best shit I used to polish I got from a local TA truck stop here, its a long brown polishing block, they also have like a white or a blue block to finish off with........It time consuming and dirty as hell :grin_nod:....but good luck with it and post pics when its finished
 

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I think everyone needs to polish something big by hand just to appreciate how much it sucks. Looks good when it's done but you'll never do it again.
 

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headingnorth said:
I think everyone needs to polish something big by hand just to appreciate how much it sucks. Looks good when it's done but you'll never do it again.
+1000
 

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I would HIGHLY suggest you don't polish it. I've had bikes done and the first thing you will notice about it.

1. Very soft metal and will scratch VERY easily...not good on an ATV
2. If it get's wet...it will look hazy until you repolish it

M
 

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It's a drag bike, doesn't get wet or scratched at all. If it does, just a little touch up polishing. I have had many streetbikes with it and I was ok.
 

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Answewr: Start off with a 120 grit, then go to 200-400-800-1000-wet sand with 1500, wet sand and then buff after 2000. Gonna shine like a baby's ass. Mothers polish is what I used, and then a pnumatic die grinder with wheel on it for buffing. The smoother and shinier you get the polishing; the less you will have to keep up with it because the metal will become less porous the more you polish it, therefor not letting water get into it and haze it over. I did the wheels on my Gixxer and everyone either had good comments or wanted to know where I got it done :thumbsup:

I'm thinkin about doing it too.
 

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Isn't there some type of clearcoat you can put on after polishing to help prevent it from oxidizing or hazing over. I was talking to some guy that does that stuff when I was going to polish some stuff and he said you spray it with a clearcoat so it will protect it. Now depending on what type of clearcoat you use im sure some might haze it up a bit but I guess you have to use the right stuff
 

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I was going to send mine off to be done while it was tore down but I got antsy and couldnt wait so I slapped ehr back together once my engine was back together. I would still like to have it done though.
 

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I think the eastwood company sells a paint thats special to clear over it and wont yellow like alot of other clears.
 

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