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Although I can't say for certain, it sounds very much like a capacitor that one would use when running a hi-power auto stereo system.
 

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I think its a joke.....but I dont know for fact. It does say "We guarantee your satisfaction, otherwise, 100% refundable (within 30 days). ".........so if it doesnt do anything then just return it.

If know one else does, I'll be the guinea pig....then I will most likely return it.

Maybe some one has tried it though and none of us have to waste out time. :thumbsup:
 
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Yea i've had it before, but it was on my old utility and if it made a difference I couldn't tell it. Procom makes it and it's "Supposed" to give it more horse power and all that stuff. I don't think I would waste my money on it if I were you.
 

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thats what I think too.....
 

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probably get more effect by changing over to the NGK Iridium plug :thumbsup:
 

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hi fellas!
yeah i seen this part awhile back and didn't understand it , if our voltage is unstable then wouldn't the dealer do something about this?? or offer something they made to correct it? i'm pretty close to the shop/location they sell from, i'd like them to hook one up on mine and do before/after dyno ...

Tips Of Concept: Without our Magic Power Box, when you throttle up your machines, the battery output voltage is unstable; it changes between 11V and 15V, the spark energy is inconsistent and your machine lacks power. With our Magic Power Box, the output voltage will be almost 100% stable. Your machine can reach the maximum power.

This Magic Power Box is very easy to install, just attach the leads to your battery mounts.
 

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Sandpig said:
I knew a few guys with Ds's that tried it.

Waste of money. :doublebird:

..........The DS or the procom? :lol:
 

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supposedely it is a total crock and dosent improve anything, i posted a while backi about it, if you use the search button for "magic power box" you will see all the responses i got, cant member the "tech" talk bout it but it is a rip the fukk off!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
aurite!! thanks for the good repsonses. i saw it on ebay and was wondering if anyone had it and if it lived up to its description. sounds to me that we shouldnt get it
 

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Anything that has "Magic" in its name is sketchy to me! It works, but no one knows why or how...its magic :unsure:
 

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im glad i dint buy this then also.... my bike is stock and i thought this would have been a cheap hp upgrade like the suzuki cherry bomb piece..
if this power box is junk?, then what is the best bang for the buck power add -ons for the raptor 700r?
 

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buying a PCIII and removing the lid and sparky! :thumbsup:
 

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You do the intake....now you have $350 into it instead of $250. $250 is about the cheapest you can go and beable to get the best results AND have the correct map from power commander to use.

Without a doubt the intake needs to be replaced...as does the stock full exhaust.......but for a first performance mod, I cant think of a better one to do that can add as much power as it does!

Then do the 15T for $8-$20....depending on who makes it.
 

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You say to remove the lid and spark arrestor. Where I mostly ride (woodsy trails and the occasional stream crossing, along with wetness and mud), is this still a recommended mod? I personally don't want to suck in any water, and I also don't want to be the one who started a fire (or get cited for not having one). So, I've seen some of these lids that look like they have a breathable mat'l on top, will that also keep water out? As far as the spark arrestor, I know that many aftermarket pipes have options for that, but how much of a hindrance is it really? I saw something on ebay (of course) that replaces the stock one with a larger one, but it's not USFS approved. So what real options are available?
 

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ChiknNutz said:
You say to remove the lid and spark arrestor. Where I mostly ride (woodsy trails and the occasional stream crossing, along with wetness and mud), is this still a recommended mod? I personally don't want to suck in any water, and I also don't want to be the one who started a fire (or get cited for not having one). So, I've seen some of these lids that look like they have a breathable mat'l on top, will that also keep water out? As far as the spark arrestor, I know that many aftermarket pipes have options for that, but how much of a hindrance is it really? I saw something on ebay (of course) that replaces the stock one with a larger one, but it's not USFS approved. So what real options are available?

OK......if your always going through puddles and getting water on the airbox then you probably dont want to ditch the lid. You could go with something like the EHS Racing lid, or the protech lid. They are "water repellent", so if there is a splash, it should roll off...but if its submerged or really "douched" then it will still let water in.
Removing the "sparky" on a stock exhaust isnt like removing the "sparky" on an aftermarket. You see, the stock "sparky" is also a sound suppressor/baffle and an emissions control device. It REALLY plugs the exhaust up...and deadin's sound...And performance. Its not just a screen spark arrestor like an aftermarket exhaust. You mentioned fires.....If you could get a fire to happen with the stock exhaust I would be really impressed. When you take the stock "sparky" out you still have a large internal wall mid way down the exhaust can. Exhaust gas is forced to escape down the sides and turn 90 degrees to get out. Any spark that comes down the exhaust piping is going to be stopped or suppressed right at that wall.
As far as getting a ticket....well, I was stopped at the ORV park on my yfz when it had a stock can with the "sparky" removed. I thought I was screwed...but the ranger pulled out his highly technical piece of equipment "a stick" and poked it down my exhaust and it hit that wall. He said....your good to go! I said "ok"! haha.
When you remove the spark arrestor from an aftermarket exhaust, there is no wall and any sparks that are traveling threw the exhaust have a clear path all the way out the end....and thats what causes the fires you are talking about.
I will also add that if you are running the correct mapping and the machine is in a good state of tune, there should be no sparks flying out the end of the muffler.
ANYWAY, I still think the best route to go it to get a PCIII first. You are going to need a controller for ANY mod you do performance wise. :thumbsup:
There is not a map for just running the "sparky" out and the airbox lid on. You can still run the map with "no lid" if you want to get one of those free flow airbox lids.
Good luck!
 

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Just thought I would add that if it is submerged your stock lid still has a big hole that will allow water in as well.
 

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Well I'm not talking about making this thing a submarine :lol:, but I often go thru some really wet $h!t that I'd be leary of getting into the system. I haven't ever looked at the stock exhaust that close, so that is very good info to know...thanks!
 
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