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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so iv recently had to rebuild my motor. (still waiting on head) When i tore it down it was bone stock and looks like the rings were pretty bad I sent my cylinder off to alba raceing to get it bored and get an 11:1 comp cp piston. I have also orderd a stage one hot cam. But now the guy that I got my head done at said that 3 of my valves and 2 springs were shot. How much would all this affect performance? and will I see a big power difference with pretty much everything working good and new? Also how hard is it to port and polish? Iv tried in on some of my chainsaws and it gave them quite a bit of power. But just wanted to see how hard the raptor would be to do.
 

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Def wanna swap out that stage 1 cam for at least a stage 2 if you wanna see a huge power difference
 

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Since your changing cams I would be changing valve springs anyway.

But how are the valves "shot" to be exact? Burned,cracked,bent, etc ?

Maybe all the need is a valve job?
 

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stage 1 HC uses stock springs. stage 2 & 3 need aftermarket springs
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I dont know how the valves are shot lol I took it to my mechanic and thats what he says. 3 valves and 2 springs im assumeing just worn out he said he could grind them anymore.
 

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But now the guy that I got my head done at said that 3 of my valves and 2 springs were shot. How much would all this affect performance? and will I see a big power difference with pretty much everything working good and new?
With those issues you would have been missing out on a lot of the stock compression, adding an 11:1 along with fixing the valvetrain should definitely result in an improvement in performance you can feel.

I'd follow the advice of the other members who posted before me. Since you already have to replace the valve springs, I'd suggest buying heavy duty valve springs and upgrading to a stage 2 hotcam instead of the stage 1. It will give you a more balanced machine that will feel more powerful through the rev range. The stage 1 is good on the bottom end and makes a strong mid, but the stage 2 has lots of midrange and noticeably more top end. The difference in off idle power shouldn't be an issue with the 11:1 piston in there.

Also how hard is it to port and polish? Iv tried in on some of my chainsaws and it gave them quite a bit of power. But just wanted to see how hard the raptor would be to do.
If you're familiar with the basics (sounds like you are) then a clean up job on the head would be worth the time. I wouldn't go crazy though, if you open things up too much you'll drop your flow and might not like the result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright mad dog thank you and as of right now I dont have the money for the stage 2 cam and springs. But more thank likely it will be an upgrade soon to come. and what vavle springs would you suggest? hotcams? or kibblewhite dual spring kit? there are some pretty good deals on ebay.
 

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Ferrea valves W/ Kibblewhite HD springs. I like my stage 3 HC, but thats just me..
 

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The stage 2 cam is the same price as the stage 1, and if you're already buying 5 HD springs then there is no additional cost to run the stage 2.

Hotcam springs are rebadged Kibblewhite from what I recall. They are good springs, go ahead and get a set with either brand name, whichever you can find the best deal on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Im not doing that im getting stock springs. lol The guy thats doing my valves just called and said 3 of my valves and and 2 springs needed to be replaced and my dad just told him to put stock ones in. So for the moment im probably going to just go with this until I can save up some more money then ill probably do a stage 2 or 3 cam with +1 valves and a mild port.
 

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I'm not sure if both of the broken springs were on broken valves or not, but I'd want to replace all of them since it's likely they have already exceeded their service life. I don't know of they were the cause of the failure you had, but I wouldn't chance it with the existing or used springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright I will call the mechanic when I get home and see what the diagnosis is and what all he is going to replace and report back to you. How hard is it to put new valves and springs in? im pretty confident I could put them in but I dont know about seating them. and as far as grinding iv never done it thats why I took it to the mechanic. Id like to get an old head and just practice on it first lol
 

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I got some low hour stock valve spring you can have if you pay the shipping. They were only in for 5-10hrs ride time.
 

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Alright I will call the mechanic when I get home and see what the diagnosis is and what all he is going to replace and report back to you. How hard is it to put new valves and springs in? im pretty confident I could put them in but I dont know about seating them. and as far as grinding iv never done it thats why I took it to the mechanic. Id like to get an old head and just practice on it first lol
Putting a head together isn't that much of a task but you do need experience inspecting all the parts and setting up the valves and seats so they seal; you'll also need a spring compressing tool. I just looked up the new OEM valves and springs and buying all 5 of each (which is what you need to do) will cost around 160 on line.

It is a shame you're not able to spend 350 total and get the stage 2 cam, dual springs and KW stainless steel valves.
If you order those parts you can take the head and valves to a machine shop and ask them to check the guides and make sure the valves are seating up on the stock seats. This may only require lapping in the new valves which you can do yourself if the seats look ok. Ask the machine shop to mill 0.050" off the center intake valve guide, install the seals and assemble the head -or if you buy a spring compressing tool you can do this yourself too. If the shop mills the center intake guide and assembles the head you're out maybe 75-100 and the head is ready to bolt on. I assume you can put the cam in the motor? if not then you're back where we started and left to the wolves in the dealership. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How do you seat them?? I mean I boughtvalve seats and got the whole set sitting on my kitchen table. But my dad said they required grinding to seat them properly and I have never done this so I thought I would leave this to someone who has but im starting to regret it.... Im pretty sure it shouldnt take 3 weeks to get this done.... As far as the rest of the motor I can handle that. But is there a wright up or a post on how to do the valves?? I would really like to do this myself if at all possible I havent had good experiances takeing my stuff to others to get fixed.
 

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How do you seat them?? I mean I boughtvalve seats and got the whole set sitting on my kitchen table. But my dad said they required grinding to seat them properly and I have never done this so I thought I would leave this to someone who has but im starting to regret it.... Im pretty sure it shouldnt take 3 weeks to get this done.... As far as the rest of the motor I can handle that. But is there a wright up or a post on how to do the valves?? I would really like to do this myself if at all possible I havent had good experiances takeing my stuff to others to get fixed.
Well, I'm not sure what you are saying here "I boughtvalve seats and got the whole set sitting on my kitchen table"

If you bought seats then a machine shop will have to cut the old seats out of the head and freeze the new seats and press them in and cut new angles on the new seats. most factory seats are good until they are damaged by broken or burnt valves. Therefore, all you will need to do is match up a set of new valves with the old seats. If this is what you have, new valves, then get a lapping tool $8 and some lapping compound $6 from Advance Auto or Autozone. Put each valve into it's guide and number them with a sharpie then start with one valve by adding a small spot of lapping compound on the valve seat and then spread it all the way around the seat, close the valve and Push/place the (plunger) lapping tool on the valve and with both hands lightly spin the valve 1/4 -1/2 turn left and right until the gritty sound is gone. The valve should have an impression of the seat about 0.020 -0.050" from it's outer edge and the seat should be a complete circle Likewise. Here's a you tube video on hand lapping a valve from someone in UK maybe:

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you I appreciate it. I got all my stuff back yesterday though and got it all installed then.... my timeing chain came off the bottom gear.. is there anyway to get it back on without haveing to take the side cover off??
 

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Thank you I appreciate it. I got all my stuff back yesterday though and got it all installed then.... my timeing chain came off the bottom gear.. is there anyway to get it back on without haveing to take the side cover off??
Just play with the chain for a little while and you will get it back on the gear.
 

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Losing the timing chain happens. It happened to me so many times I made a tool that helps guide it back onto the gear. The secret is to figure out how it walked off the gear and then reverse the pattern. The tool I use is a rigid strip of 0.100" steel about 3/4" wide and 2' long (not sure where I found it but it works) Run the strip down the side without a chain guide and apply pressure to the chain as you turn the crank.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright man thanks lol I dont know why I didnt think of something like that. I really appreciate all the help guys!
 
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