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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought 03 660r. I'm a newbie about these things.
I noticed that neutral indicator light is always on, doesn't matter on which gear it is.
Anyone have idea what might be wrong, what should i check?
Thanks.
 

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down by the shifter there are 2 wires that attach to the side of the case. the green wire with white stripe is your reverse sensor and the other wire is the neutral sensor, check that the connection isn't broken, if its intact, clean the connection and re-install the wire. Should fix it.
 

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i had the same problem a few weeks back. following sto's advice i cleaned that connection along with checking the connections on my cdi due to removing rear fender. i did it all at the same time so not sure what corrected it but back to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
firstraptor said:
Neutral switch stuck?
Put it in gear and test for continuity thru the switch.
If you don't have a meter you might try unscrewing it from the case and seeing if the ball in the end moves in and out.
When i disconnected the wire from the switch the indicator light goes off. The ball on the end of the switch can be hardly pressed in.
I will try to replace that switch maybe.
 

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My neutral light works when it wants to. If it is in N but no light i have to pull the clutch in, but if the light is on i can crank it up. I think it may be that the starter is going out. It will make some bad noise. Is it bad idea to keep that bad starter in there till it just blows up?
 

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Crunchy grinding noises? That would be the oneway, it's slowly falling apart droping little pieces of metal in your motor. This may sound like a very bad thing, and it is, but it's happened to just about everyone that owns a raptor. Search for "oneway" or "oneway bearing", there's plenty of info available, it's not the end of the world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
firstraptor said:
Might try cleaning it with some carb or brake cleaner.
I forgot, is the oil level above that point, it leak when you pulled the switch out?
no, there is no oil when i removed that switch.
Is that ball should move easily ?

It might be stupid question but i just got raptor 3 days ago and this is my first atv/bike.
How should i fill brake fluid on front brakes? I had front brake line broken , i replaced it and i add fluid to that "reservoir" on the handle bar, brake still doesn't work.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
firstraptor said:
I don't know how easily the ball should move, haven't had a problem with mine, yet.

For the brakes, you filled the correct spot, now you need to bleed them.
Know how?
No idea. I filled that thing full. What should i do now?
 

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Brake bleeding, my process, there's others.
Block up the front end and remove both front wheels.
On each caliper is a bleeder (it's 6mm), clean them both.
It's optional but I put a rubber hose on each bleeded and place it in a jar with some brakefluid, the end of the hose submerged.
I put a wrench on each bleeder and then the hose into the fluid. This lets you watch the fluid for bubbles and prevents air from being drawn back into the caliper if your slow at closing the bleeder.
:)
Squeeze the brake lever, SLOWLY, and hold pressure on it.
Release one bleeder and watch for bubbles, you'll see alot at first as the air leves the hose.
When the lever reaches the end of travel close the bleeded and SLOWLY release the lever. Slowly means don't just let go, 2 or 3 seconds to get the lever back to it's released point is fine.
Do this two or three times at each wheel.
Check the fluid level in the resivour.
:)
I usually loosen the clamp to rotate the resivour level, it holds more fluid that way.
Repeate the opening of the bleeder and pulling the brake lever untill the lever feels solid. Alternate between wheels, this will prevent an air bubble from sitting at the "T" in the brake line.
The lever should have a solid feel, if it's spongy then there is still air in the lines. The exception to this is that older brakes will develope spongy feel as the seals age.
Watch the fluid level as you go, if the resivour gets empty you'll draw air into the line and be right back to where you are now.
Brake fluid will eat paint.
Hope I didn't loose you, got a little longer than I thought it would, if you need clarification say so, the important part is between the smilly faces.
All your really doing is pushing the air thru the lines and out the bleeders, remember close the bleeder and before letting the lever return. Keep fluid in the resivour and alternate wheels.
When you think your done have someone hold a little pressure on the brake lever and turn one wheel and then the other, it should feel the same. Take it for a test ride and check that one brake isn't pulling harder than the other.
 

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i literally did this an hour ago on the back brake. Did a little trial and error before i figured out you have to close the bleeder and let the brake out slowly... Oh well. Got it workin right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yeah, but it would take me forever to push that air without disconnecting.
What i did, i pluged the end of the line with my thumb and pump the brake, while i hold a brake lever i let off my thumb to get the air out, i continue that till just brake fluid goes out of the line. Than i connected the line back an bleed the whole system again.
 
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