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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I think I figured it out. I hooked up a compressor hose to the spark plug hole and pumped it up with air and put some liquid in the intake so the liquid is sitting on top of the valve and I got bubbles so that is telling me the intake valve is not sealing. Right
 

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So I got home and before I put the boot on I wanted to check compression it’s at around 140 150 I also sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake valve hole and it bubbles could the valve not be closing all the way
If the valve isn't closing all the way it's bent(unless the seat is just completely worn out, but that isn't that common), and will cause backfiring through the carburetor.
But, you can change the idle by spraying the boot, which says air leak.
Did you not replace the boot and o-ring or gasket?
 

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I think I figured it out. I hooked up a compressor hose to the spark plug hole and pumped it up with air and put some liquid in the intake so the liquid is sitting on top of the valve and I got bubbles so that is telling me the intake valve is not sealing. Right
Sounds like it; did you rebuild this engine?
Did the problem suddenly start?
Is the timing chain loose or noisy?
Did all the noise go away once you adjusted the valves correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I did the new boot and gasket and the valve noise went away because like I said I’m a dumb ass and don’t no how to read feeler gauges but it still hiccups and pops through the intake. So I pressurized the cylinder with air and with the intake boot at the cylinder I can see the stem side of the valve I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in until it made a puddle all the way around and I get air bubbles. I did it at tech. So the rocker arm had play. I even checked the clearance again and was good.
 

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So. If I’m adjusting it to between 10 and 20 for exhaust and I use a .005 which is .127 mm that’s correct
Whatever the service manual says, as I don't remember.
.005" sounds about right.
What do you mean adjusting between 10 to 20?
Loose valves make noise.
Tight valves cause hard starts.
Neither causes backfiring through the carburetor.
Did you check the timing before disassembling it?
 

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I found one issue with the intake valve side I filled up the intake with fluid and it’s seeping around the cylinder side so that is telling me the valve isn’t seated all the way right
Yes, I read that above.
You can probably lap the valve seat and replace the valve vs having the seat replaced in the head.
Or probably buy a remanufactured head for the cost of machining yours.
 

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I lapped both valves and got head back together ? Can I set the valve clearance before I put the head back on. Thanks
I won't say it can't be done, but it would be wise to set the valves with the timing chain on and tensioned correctly.
After you set the timing, rotate the engine twice and make sure the timing marks are still in alignment.
 
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