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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 03 raptor 660. I've had it about 3 months driven it a total of 4 hours 37 minutes in that time. Never had a single issue, fired right up ran absolutely perfect, other then the rev limiter in reverse. I took it out on the trails by myself today, and it started running kind of poor, stuttering, the occasional backfire, bogging if i gave it too much throttle. So i figured I didnt want to get stuck, so i turned around (used reverse) and it stalled of course because of the limiter. I could not get it started. I had a friend tow me with his truck back to my house and while being towed, i could get it bump started, but couldnt rev it up at all. so you might think automatically that one of the limiters is engaged and i should disable it. but the thing is, i have a trailtech, and every time i go to start the bike, the rpm would read about 240 while i was starting it. now, when its cranking, it just reads ----, as if the bike is off and not being turned over at all. I took the spark plug out and cranked it, no spark that i could see. BUt i don't see how this is possible if it starts while being bump started. It will also start once in a great while and run reallll bad, and then it will backfire tremendously. after a real big backfire, the rpm will go back to reading ---- while trying to start it. sorry for the real long post, but does anyone have any suggestions? I wanted to post before i tear apart the carbs for no reason at all. I don't think a carb would randomly become messed up, i jetted it myself and it ran absolutely perfect. thanks guys, michael
 

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I have an 03 raptor 660. I've had it about 3 months driven it a total of 4 hours 37 minutes in that time. Never had a single issue, fired right up ran absolutely perfect, other then the rev limiter in reverse. I took it out on the trails by myself today, and it started running kind of poor, stuttering, the occasional backfire, bogging if i gave it too much throttle. So i figured I didnt want to get stuck, so i turned around (used reverse) and it stalled of course because of the limiter. I could not get it started. I had a friend tow me with his truck back to my house and while being towed, i could get it bump started, but couldnt rev it up at all. so you might think automatically that one of the limiters is engaged and i should disable it. but the thing is, i have a trailtech, and every time i go to start the bike, the rpm would read about 240 while i was starting it. now, when its cranking, it just reads ----, as if the bike is off and not being turned over at all. I took the spark plug out and cranked it, no spark that i could see. BUt i don't see how this is possible if it starts while being bump started. It will also start once in a great while and run reallll bad, and then it will backfire tremendously. after a real big backfire, the rpm will go back to reading ---- while trying to start it. sorry for the real long post, but does anyone have any suggestions? I wanted to post before i tear apart the carbs for no reason at all. I don't think a carb would randomly become messed up, i jetted it myself and it ran absolutely perfect. thanks guys, michael
Go to my profile and check on the threads I started. You will find one that is titled stator problems. It will show your sympthoms exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so it sounds like I should try unplugging the rectifier and if it starts, figure out where there's a short? or just replace the stator... sounds like a huge pita haha.
 

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I have an 03 raptor 660. I've had it about 3 months driven it a total of 4 hours 37 minutes in that time. Never had a single issue, fired right up ran absolutely perfect, other then the rev limiter in reverse. I took it out on the trails by myself today, and it started running kind of poor, stuttering, the occasional backfire, bogging if i gave it too much throttle. So i figured I didnt want to get stuck, so i turned around (used reverse) and it stalled of course because of the limiter. I could not get it started. I had a friend tow me with his truck back to my house and while being towed, i could get it bump started, but couldnt rev it up at all. so you might think automatically that one of the limiters is engaged and i should disable it. but the thing is, i have a trailtech, and every time i go to start the bike, the rpm would read about 240 while i was starting it. now, when its cranking, it just reads ----, as if the bike is off and not being turned over at all. I took the spark plug out and cranked it, no spark that i could see. BUt i don't see how this is possible if it starts while being bump started. It will also start once in a great while and run reallll bad, and then it will backfire tremendously. after a real big backfire, the rpm will go back to reading ---- while trying to start it. sorry for the real long post, but does anyone have any suggestions? I wanted to post before i tear apart the carbs for no reason at all. I don't think a carb would randomly become messed up, i jetted it myself and it ran absolutely perfect. thanks guys, michael
so it sounds like I should try unplugging the rectifier and if it starts, figure out where there's a short? or just replace the stator... sounds like a huge pita haha.
Did you read my thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I did, i was just clarifying because I was a little bit confused by it. i've only had dirtbikes before this bike and they have very simple electrical systems! If i unplug the regulator rectifier and it does in fact start, what needs to be done to fix the 'short' and if that doesn't fix the problem, installing a new stator assembly should do the trick, correct? Now, does this mean a $40 ebay stator, or do i need to get the assembly that comes with the ignition coil which is significantly more expensive?
 

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Yes I did, i was just clarifying because I was a little bit confused by it. i've only had dirtbikes before this bike and they have very simple electrical systems! If i unplug the regulator rectifier and it does in fact start, what needs to be done to fix the 'short' and if that doesn't fix the problem, installing a new stator assembly should do the trick, correct? Now, does this mean a $40 ebay stator, or do i need to get the assembly that comes with the ignition coil which is significantly more expensive?
You can try unplugging the rectifier but I doubt if it will help. You could also cut the red wire exiting the stator, but again I doubt if that will help. You may have to change the stator inside the engines left cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right, that's what I was thinking. Is this a fairly simple task? I am very mechnically inclined, but to be honest i've only done top end jobs on 2 strokes and basic maintenance before. If it's complicated, I could easily take it to the local yamaha place and have them do it.
 

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Right, that's what I was thinking. Is this a fairly simple task? I am very mechnically inclined, but to be honest i've only done top end jobs on 2 strokes and basic maintenance before. If it's complicated, I could easily take it to the local yamaha place and have them do it.
It would take about a half hour to changes. Remove the cover. It's inside.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Unplug the reg...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So i did try unplugging the reg/rec (black box by the coolant resovoir, right?) And still didn't start. Looks like I need a new stator i suppose.
 

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Master of the Electron
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So, no spark can now be stator, CDI, coil, spark plug cable/boot or any wiring between the sub-systems.

1st order is to follow test sequences in service manual... then having extra parts to swap in becomes invaluable as one can only test using an oscilloscope and some electronics knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hmm. I have an oscope for car audio purposes but not sure how to use it in regards to this. To be entirely honest with work I don't have time to do this at all so i'll probably have to take it to a shop and have them look at it. unfortunately it sounds time consuming and they will probably overcharge me by quite a bit.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Verify that there is no spark before you do much else. Also check connections on both orange and black coil wires.
 

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Hmm. I have an oscope for car audio purposes but not sure how to use it in regards to this. To be entirely honest with work I don't have time to do this at all so i'll probably have to take it to a shop and have them look at it. unfortunately it sounds time consuming and they will probably overcharge me by quite a bit.
Verify that there is no spark before you do much else. Also check connections on both orange and black coil wires.
Unfortunately most bike shops don't even have an oscilloscope, and in my case which I made a thread on, an oscilloscope showed regular and normal activity. Test the orange wire with an oscilloscope and verify you have overv100 volts AC.
 
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