Raptor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello
Would having the clip in the wrong postion on a totally stock Raptor 660 cause it to bog and stutter at 1/2 throttle? What are the symptoms if the main jets were installed in the wrong carb (145 in the left and 140 in the right)? I am having problems with my 660 after the carb was cleaned and rebuilt. It idles and revs in N well and low rpms in first is fine, but when you go to 1/2 throttle it bogs stutter and no power. Also what is the stock setting for the air fuel screws? I seen 2.5 in both and 2 3/8 inthe left and 2 1/8 on the right. Do they both get equal turns?

Please help
Thanks
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,622 Posts
1) make sure the larger main jet is in the right carb. The opposite will cause all kinds of issues

2) if the problem persists at 1/2 throttle, chenge needle position... can't tell you which way, but if it gets better you're going the right direction, worse and it's the wrong direction

3) fuel screws adjusted so that it idles well, coming onto throttle is smooth with no stumbles, and no backfiring when coming off throttle.

Rememeber -

pilot jets and fuel screws affect idle to 1/4 throttle,
needles affect 1/4 to 3/4 throttle
mains affect 3/4 to wide open throttle.
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
Hello
Would having the clip in the wrong postion on a totally stock Raptor 660 cause it to bog and stutter at 1/2 throttle? What are the symptoms if the main jets were installed in the wrong carb (145 in the left and 140 in the right)? I am having problems with my 660 after the carb was cleaned and rebuilt. It idles and revs in N well and low rpms in first is fine, but when you go to 1/2 throttle it bogs stutter and no power. Also what is the stock setting for the air fuel screws? I seen 2.5 in both and 2 3/8 inthe left and 2 1/8 on the right. Do they both get equal turns?

Please help
Thanks
You are sure it isnt a rev limtier problem, reverse or park brake............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I just took the front fender off and found a green/yellow wire with plug unpluged and a set of black wire with the male end unplugged and a black and yellow wire plugged into a black wire and another b/y and b wire not plugged in. What are these for could this be the problem? Should they be plugged in?

Thanks
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
Well I just took the front fender off and found a green/yellow wire with plug unpluged and a set of black wire with the male end unplugged and a black and yellow wire plugged into a black wire and another b/y and b wire not plugged in. What are these for could this be the problem? Should they be plugged in?

Thanks
Leave the main wiring harness plugins alone, the green and yellow wire and the black wire go to the park brake switch, if the green and yellow wire from the main harness contacts to ground, it will turn on the rev limiter immediately on throttle up.............
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
Ok so they should be unplugged?
The main wiring harness plugins should remain unplugged, but if you want to try it, plug them in and see the difference in the performance, it would show you the rev limiter and how it works.............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok how about the b/y wire beening plugged into the black wire and the other b/y and black wire just hanging not plugged?
 

·
Master of the Electron
Joined
·
15,622 Posts
Right side is as you are sitting on bike - yes, thumb throttle side - left carb has fuel line from tank and throttle cable entering it.

Black/yellow wire is from the clutch switch. If it's tied back to the black wire at the harness side (side away from switch) then the p/o must have determined that the switch was bad and connected them together to bypass it... your bike starts in gear without the clutch being pulled, right? This is due to the harness black/yellow being shorted to black.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes it will start without the clutch being pulled. I guess I should disconnect them and tape them up. I am going to take the carb out tonight and check the needle position and make sure the 140 is in the left carb and the 145 is in the other. Would it be possible the carbs need to be synced?

Thanks
 

·
I am unique
Joined
·
22,621 Posts
Yes it will start without the clutch being pulled. I guess I should disconnect them and tape them up. I am going to take the carb out tonight and check the needle position and make sure the 140 is in the left carb and the 145 is in the other. Would it be possible the carbs need to be synced?

Thanks
Nope, as long as they are very equal, they synchronize behind the carbs at the intake port crossover.............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Got the Carb out and the needle clips are in the middle on both, right Carb has a 145 and the left has a 140. Both jets and pilots where brand new and spot list but I still soaked and blew them out. I discconected the plugs and connected the b/y and b wire from the harness together and taped up the others. I did notice the carbs came off the boots very easly I didn't even loosen the clamps on the engine side. Would the boots not having a tight seal on the engine side cause the bog at 1/2 throttle? In what order does the tiny washer go back onto the needles? Could I use the micro fiech from a parts list as reference? Should the needle be able to move when its put back into the diaphram?
Thanks
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top