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Raptor 660 won’t go past 70km/h

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My raptor 660 won’t go past 70 km/hr and is hard on gas. The clutch isn’t slipping and it has nothing to do with the reverse limiter but it still seems to be an electrical issue. @QuadManiac help me please
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My raptor 660 won’t go past 70 km/hr and is hard on gas. The clutch isn’t slipping and it has nothing to do with the reverse limiter but it still seems to be an electrical issue. @QuadManiac help me please
It also randomly shuts off at high speeds and won’t turn back on for a bit
Is it overheating? When was the last time you adjusted the valves. I'd start with a tune up, and just start ruling everything out.
When it shuts offf, how quickly is it able to restart? Does it quit due loss of spark? If so try unplugging the rectifier/regulator and see if spark immediately returns - I'll then tell you what to do next.

It is not valve adjustment...
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When it shuts offf, how quickly is it able to restart? Does it quit due loss of spark? If so try unplugging the rectifier/regulator and see if spark immediately returns - I'll then tell you what to do next.

It is not valve adjustment...
You don't think out of spec valves could cause loss of power and when heated up cause it to want to die out? Not arguing or anything just curious.
Is it overheating? When was the last time you adjusted the valves. I'd start with a tune up, and just start ruling everything out.
Everything is tuned properly. Did that first
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When it shuts offf, how quickly is it able to restart? Does it quit due loss of spark? If so try unplugging the rectifier/regulator and see if spark immediately returns - I'll then tell you what to do next.

It is not valve adjustment...
My friend will try that soon and I’ll let you know
You don't think out of spec valves could cause loss of power and when heated up cause it to want to die out? Not arguing or anything just curious.
Raptor's problem (and many other small engine's) is the opposite... as it wears valve clearance reduces until the point where, when it cools down, valves won't close fully and it won't start. When warm, clearance opens back up.(steel valve expands less than aluminum head) and it runs fine.

Micheal, you should probably tell us your mods to exhaust and airbox and jet sizes being used.
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Raptor's problem (and many other small engine's) is the opposite... as it wears valve clearance reduces until the point where, when it cools down, valves won't close fully and it won't start. When warm, clearance opens back up.(steel valve expands less than aluminum head) and it runs fine.

Micheal, you should probably tell us your mods to exhaust and airbox and jet sizes being used.
It has a k and n air filter and a slip on f
Raptor's problem (and many other small engine's) is the opposite... as it wears valve clearance reduces until the point where, when it cools down, valves won't close fully and it won't start. When warm, clearance opens back up.(steel valve expands less than aluminum head) and it runs fine.

Micheal, you should probably tell us your mods to exhaust and airbox and jet sizes being used.
It has a slip on fmf pipe. A k&n air filter. And my friend tried those things. Didn’t do much. It has started up quickly a few times it shit off but usually takes a bit
Have you checked for spark when it fails to run?
It has a k and n air filter and a slip on f

It has a slip on fmf pipe. A k&n air filter. And my friend tried those things. Didn’t do much. It has started up quickly a few times it shit off but usually takes a bit
I also don’t know the jet sizes but in 90% sure they are stock
Have you checked for spark when it fails to run?
it doesn’t fail to run it literally turns off. Like fully off. No power at all no lights no nothing
it doesn’t fail to run it literally turns off. Like fully off. No power at all no lights no nothing
Thanks - this is new and important information! This likely means that power to the CDI (and everything else) is being interrupted. The most likely place for this to happen is at the key switch.

If you have a Volt meter and know how to use it you might measure DC voltage at the red wire going into the key switch and the brown wire leaving the key switch (with key on, and just after it has stopped running)... both wires should have around 12V on them... if the red does but brown doesn't the key switch is bad, dirty, or has some other malady.

Try aggressively turning the key ON/OFF/ON/OFF/ON/OFF a bunch of times to try to clean the contacts... you can also spray electrical contact cleaner into the key hole, or even WD-40 and then exercise it as described above.

Let us know what happens.
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Thanks - this is new and important information! This likely means that power to the CDI (and everything else) is being interrupted. The most likely place for this to happen is at the key switch.

If you have a Volt meter and know how to use it you might measure DC voltage at the red wire going into the key switch and the brown wire leaving the key switch (with key on, and just after it has stopped running)... both wires should have around 12V on them... if the red does but brown doesn't the key switch is bad, dirty, or has some other malady.

Try aggressively turning the key ON/OFF/ON/OFF/ON/OFF a bunch of times to try to clean the contacts... you can also spray electrical contact cleaner into the key hole, or even WD-40 and then exercise it as described above.

Let us know what happens.
I can’t exactly do that lol. It has a switch not a key fob I don’t think the key fob is even connected to anything. But I do know the switch was just required and done properly so it shouldn’t be an issue.
I can’t exactly do that lol. It has a switch not a key fob I don’t think the key fob is even connected to anything. But I do know the switch was just required and done properly so it shouldn’t be an issue.
I contend it (or someyhing related) was NOT done properly... If you can't deal with using a Volt meter you better find a freind who can!
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I contend it (or someyhing related) was NOT done properly... If you can't deal with using a Volt meter you better find a freind who can!
No he’s already checked all that. He required it himself because it was on there horribly
Did this just start happening out of the blue or was it something that came on progressively? Was there anything that happened then this issue popped up? How quickly will it run again after it acts up? I think a voltmeter like quadmaniac said would find the problem fairly quick. Or at least rule out several other areas.
It had the problem when I bought it a couple of weeks ago so I have no clue when or why it started. But I think my friend has used a volt metre to check and hasn’t found anything
No he’s already checked all that. He required it himself because it was on there horribly
Who is 'he'? And how do you know he has a clue about what he's doing... as I can assure you that WE do!
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Just a friend of mine he was an electrical mechanic for a few years. I’m gonna try swapping the stator as I have a spare one and it can’t hurt
it doesn’t fail to run it literally turns off. Like fully off. No power at all no lights no nothing
Its not CDI or stator dammit - they have nothing to do with loss of lights. If your friend truly had any electrical knowledge he would understand this.

99.9% likely the problem is in the changed 're-wiring' that he did and most likely related to the switch that has replaced the key switch.

You can trust him or us, but not both.
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