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Discussion Starter #201
Are the carb bodies leaking or out the vent hose? Check the rubber "O" rings in the carbs and replace any that are cracking or bloated. A common problem. Be sure the floats move freely and check the adjusted. There is a "sticky" on the clear tube float adjustment.

Good job on the bad fuse.

Hot battery connections is usually caused by a low battery, dirty connections or corroded cables. A good battery should read around 13.5 volts. Try jumping from another vehicle battery. If you have a VOM you can check the cables for voltage drop. Be sure to keep the battery on the trickle charger.
The vent hose is leaking, not the bodies.

I will take the spark plug out and check for a spark and also i will jump start it off my car to see if it works then?

Is it safe to start whilst fuel is dripping out the carb??? Just want to get it started up first
 

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Are the carb bodies leaking or out the vent hose? Check the rubber "O" rings in the carbs and replace any that are cracking or bloated. A common problem. Be sure the floats move freely and check

The vent hose is leaking, not the bodies.

I will take the spark plug out and check for a spark and also i will jump start it off my car to see if it works then?

Is it safe to start whilst fuel is dripping out the carb
Just want to get it started up first
Leaking overflow usually is the float adjustment or bad needle and seat leaking.

Is it safe to start? Well.... You could fill the carbs with gas and close off the valve. Then start and if it runs turn the valve on and off to keep it running without the carburetor leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Leaking overflow usually is the float adjustment or bad needle and seat leaking.

Is it safe to start? Well.... You could fill the carbs with gas and close off the valve. Then start and if it runs turn the valve on and off to keep it running without the carburetor leaking.
Sooo..

Put on solenoid back on, connected jumper cables from the car to the bike and started it up.

The bike started and sounded perfect( i hope ) , i turned the fuel on and off before to get some in the carbs as they are still leaking.

Checked oil level after start up and was empty so topped it up and then started again, oil must of pumped around the bike.

Now heres a video of it started up https://youtu.be/yRIUmA2LW2w , there seems to be alot of smoke coming out the exhaust pipe area seen in the video after about 30 seconds and exhaust is really hot. ( is this normal? does it look like i bolted the exhaust on right??

Also i unscrewed the screw in the top part of the head ( picture attached ) to check if oil was going into there, and it seems to be empty even after the start up.. is the normal?
 

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Sooo..

Put on solenoid back on, connected jumper cables from the car to the bike and started it up.

The bike started and sounded perfect( i hope ) , i turned the fuel on and off before to get some in the carbs as they are still leaking.

Checked oil level after start up and was empty so topped it up and then started again, oil must of pumped around the bike.

Now heres a video of it started up https://youtu.be/yRIUmA2LW2w , there seems to be alot of smoke coming out the exhaust pipe area seen in the video after about 30 seconds and exhaust is really hot. ( is this normal? does it look like i bolted the exhaust on right??

Also i unscrewed the screw in the top part of the head ( picture attached ) to check if oil was going into there, and it seems to be empty even after the start up.. is the normal?

WooHoo, YOU did it, CONGRATULATION!!

You'll have to charge your battery some more, but you might need a replacement.

Be careful of adding to much oil. I believe it's a dry sump, Meaning the motor doesn't store oil when running, it pumps the oil into the overflow tank then back to the motor. When the motor is turned off , the oil self levels between the motor and tank. Check your owners manual for the correct amount and procedure for checking the level.

I don't know about bleeding the oil on a 660. The 700 has a oil line going to the head, loosen the fitting and check for oil flow when it's running. Again, check your manual for the 660.

The exhaust looks installed properly, and yes, it will get hot. The exhaust smoke is oils from assembly burning off and is normal till the oil from your hands burns off and the rings seat in.

It doesn't take long for the rings to seat. "BUT", don't let it idle to long, start it next time and get out and ride it. Very the RPM's and don't lug for the first 1/2 to 1 hour. Your rings should be seated by then, want to get pressure behind the rings at the mid to higher RPM's.

Again, WooHoo!!
 

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I think you'll sleep better tonight. WooHoo!!
 

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Discussion Starter #206
I think you'll sleep better tonight. WooHoo!!

YES very happy, all that work and troubles and it works. Even took a gamble on the bottom engine replacement.

So the smokes normal, okay good thats perfect then.

I cant ride it yet as the carbs are leaking you see, i think its the gaskets as they did look at scumpled up and bent ? Where can i buy some from? All i can find is the full rebuild kits on ebay

Also did you watch the video? does it sound good? Timing look good
 

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YES very happy, all that work and troubles and it works. Even took a gamble on the bottom engine replacement.

So the smokes normal, okay good thats perfect then.

I cant ride it yet as the carbs are leaking you see, i think its the gaskets as they did look at scumpled up and bent ? Where can i buy some from? All i can find is the full rebuild kits on ebay

Also did you watch the video? does it sound good? Timing look good
Yes, I watched the video and it sounded good at idle. I didn't hear any roughness or changes in RPM's. How did it sound if you gave it some throttle?

I didn't see any timing marks so I don't know, but since it runs I would assume it's correct. Did you adjust the valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Yes, I watched the video and it sounded good at idle. I didn't hear any roughness or changes in RPM's. How did it sound if you gave it some throttle?

I didn't see any timing marks so I don't know, but since it runs I would assume it's correct. Did you adjust the valves?
Okay perfect, first i started it it was idling very hard and high, but then i screwed the throttle adjuster out and then it idle perfect.

The timing i did it correct as i followed a youtube video and it went well.

No i did not adjust any valves but i guess its fine i guess?

When i pressed throttle it sounded good but i only throttled it once
 

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If the carb leaking from the overflow tube it's is most like a bad needle and seat that allows gas from the tank to fill the float bowl. There may be something small blocking it from closing all the way and the float bowl overflows. Or the needle is worn and won't seal.

If it's the space between the carb and float bowl then you need a bowl gasket. I don't know where to get one, unless you contact Mikuni.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
If the carb leaking from the overflow tube it's is most like a bad needle and seat that allows gas from the tank to fill the float bowl. There may be something small blocking it from closing all the way and the float bowl overflows. Or the needle is worn and won't seal.

If it's the space between the carb and float bowl then you need a bowl gasket. I don't know where to get one, unless you contact Mikuni.
its flowing out from the bottom part of the carb bowel, not the tubes.

What shall i do then? Shall i take the carbs apart and check for any blockage and adjust the float bowel to 3mm or something its supposed to be?

And the gaskets may be a problem on the carbs as i did say they looked a little knackerd..
 

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On the bottom of the carb is there a small nipple where a tube can be hooked to? If that is where the fuel is coming out it can be an easy fix with white toothpaste and a q tip to clean where the floats have a tapered jet of sorts that seats in there. I can't think of the official name of it but I have to polish my carb bikes unit as well every year.

Hope that makes sense..

Great job on following through getting the bike to run, it sounded good through my ears as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
On the bottom of the carb is there a small nipple where a tube can be hooked to? If that is where the fuel is coming out it can be an easy fix with white toothpaste and a q tip to clean where the floats have a tapered jet of sorts that seats in there. I can't think of the official name of it but I have to polish my carb bikes unit as well every year.

Hope that makes sense..

Great job on following through getting the bike to run, it sounded good through my ears as well.
Yes i think there is, i will take a video of it and some pictures tomorrow and show you my carbs,

Yeah i also had the battery fully charged but it did not start the bike , put jumper cables on a first press it fired up
 

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Is the seal rubber or a fiber gasket? If it isn't broken or gouged you might be able to rejuvinate it with some rubber conditioner. ArmorAll, 303, or tire dressing may work to soak it in overnight. If it's fiber, get a flat fiber gasket, trace the float bowl on it and carefully cut a new gasket.

I don't know what type of hardware stores there, but you might find "O" ring material. You by it round or straight length of the correct diameter and make the shape you need. You might overlap the ends slightly or use a rubber/contact cement to glue end to end.

Yes, adjust the floats to spec's.
 

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its flowing out from the bottom part of the carb bowel, not the tubes.

What shall i do then? Shall i take the carbs apart and check for any blockage and adjust the float bowel to 3mm or something its supposed to be?

And the gaskets may be a problem on the carbs as i did say they looked a little knackerd..
Oh, wait. I just reread this. The leakage is leaking from the bottom of the float bowl or the seam where it bolts to the carb body?? Is it the drain plug under the bottom of the float bowl? The plug can use a "O" ring of the correct size, or cut out some gasket material to fit. No "O" rings or gasket material? Do you have any flexible plastic water/milk/fizzy drink or similar containers? You might try cutting a gasket from one, the thicker, the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #215
Oh, wait. I just reread this. The leakage is leaking from the bottom of the float bowl or the seam where it bolts to the carb body?? Is it the drain plug under the bottom of the float bowl? The plug can use a "O" ring of the correct size, or cut out some gasket material to fit. No "O" rings or gasket material? Do you have any flexible plastic water/milk/fizzy drink or similar containers? You might try cutting a gasket from one, the thicker, the better.
Hi, i will take the carbs apart and adjust the float which is probabaly the problem because when i took them apart before i did not adjust them or anything. I just cleaned the carbs and put them back together. They did not leak prior so i think its the float.

I also saw this engine oil on Eurocar parts on offer, I filled the bike with yamalube 10w40 semi synthetic, but as ill need to change oil after iv run in the new engine i found this alternative, Shell Advance 4T AX7 10W-40 - 4Ltr

Shall i go for that oil? or just buy another yamalube?

Also the mechanic i took the bike to in the first days of ownership said the battery was wrong and underpowered for this bike , they did write down the correct one but i lost the paper. Find picture of my current battery, and i need a option to buy a new battery for the bike ( any help would be nice )


Picture 1 ( yamalube I have put in the new rebuild )

Picture 2 ( new engine oil im asking if its ok to purchase for the oil change )

Picture 3 ( old battery )


Thanks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #217
Here is where I get my batteries, Battery mart.com. Good prices. There are 3 different ones they offer for you.

Concerning oil just make darn sure it is Jaso rated wet clutch compatible.

https://www.batterymart.com/p-mtx-15-agm-maintenance-free-battery.html

Here is the oil description, it says SMJASO MA2, which i belive is Jaso rated?


And im in the UK the delivery wont be nice from that site. Do you reccomend any brand battery i can find over here??

Thanks
 

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The oil ratings are good. battery to you will be a tough call. I have even picked them up from local Wal-mart store but I doubt you have those over there. What about from an auto store?
 

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Discussion Starter #219
The oil ratings are good. battery to you will be a tough call. I have even picked them up from local Wal-mart store but I doubt you have those over there. What about from an auto store?
Yeah ill have a search around or go to my local motorbike store and ask them,

Okay ill order that oil for the oil change after i fix the carbs and run the bike for half a hour.


Ill keep you guys updated, will take carbs apart this week
 

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Yeah ill have a search around or go to my local motorbike store and ask them,

Okay ill order that oil for the oil change after i fix the carbs and run the bike for half a hour.


Ill keep you guys updated, will take carbs apart this week
Don't use synthetic oil for break-in. It's too slippery. Also, over here YamaLube has a bad reputation. We use RotellaT4 for break-in, and 2 oil changes after that. Then either continue with it or switch to RotellaT6, is a synthetic. I think it's made by Shell and may be what you're talking about, but whatever you use be sure it's "wet clutch" compatible, labeled as JASO as Morphrider says.

There is a sticky about float adjustment called "clear tube method". No need to remove carbs to check the float level.

Listen to Morph about batteries as I have no clue what's good or bad.
 
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