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Raptor 660 Wont start up

23K views 244 replies 9 participants last post by  YamahaSpecial 
#1 ·
I purchased a used raptor privately from a guy who said it has not been used for 2/3 years. It started up on the first day and the exhaust was 'popping' like gun shots , when pressing the throttle and in gear it was just idling along and not responding to the throttle.

So - i tore it apart, cleaned the carbs ( carbs was clean anyway when opened and looked spotless , cleaned all the jets but left the fuel and air mixture screws how they was.

put the carb etc back together with a new battery and now when i try and start the bike, all i can hear is a clicking sound from the solenoid.

I have ordered a new solenoid, new oil filter, new oil, will put in fresh fuel and i will jump start with a car battery when all these are fitted.

new battery dont seem very strong and dont have a voltage tester , but i can jump start it with a car.

Should the above solutions fix this issue? or is there a different issue here?

any help would be highly appreciated
 
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#3 ·
What year is it? Is it stock? Kill us with details.

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#4 ·
hi,

So i need some light shed on this topic. I purchased it as a 2006 yamaha raptor 660r special edition. Now i know people say 660 is to 2005 only, but how can mine be 2006?
The quads log book or title is stated as a 2006 yamaha raptor 660 even when checked online through the government website. Did yamaha make a few special edition 660's in 2006?


Ok so its got a powercore bomb 4 exhaust system and a k&n air filter. Its all stock other than that.

First day it started, was ideling and the exhaust was just popping like gun shots which did not sound right. cleaned carbs, replaced battery and then its solenoid is clicking.
 
#5 · (Edited)
It's possible Yamaha made a 660 in late '05 and called it a '06. If so it is a rare bike.

When cleaning the carbs it's necessary to run a fine copper (speaker) wire thru all orifices in the carb bodies.

Your starting issue is most likely a low battery, indicated by the solenoid clicking. Even a new battery will require a few days on a low amp trickle/float charger.

I can't help you with jetting. Do you know what jets are in now?

WELCOME TO THE FORUM.
 
#6 ·
Hi thanks for the reply.

So i jump started it today with the car and it turns over and starts very rough. But as soon as i let go off the start button it cuts out. I put fresh fuel in and also checks the fuel flow and its all fine.

I ordered a solenoid for a 660r raptor and the one they sent dont fit.

Im just going to take it to the garage on THursday and let them break my BANK as I just cant get it going :/
 
#8 ·
Whoa!! They need to pinpoint it more.

Ask if it has compression.
Ask if the timing and chain adjustment are good.
Ask if the valves and adjustment are good.

Any of these being bad could cause no start, but not necessary need a rebuild. They need to give you a reason "why" it needs a rebuild. A top end rebuild may cost at a shop may exceed the value of the bike. What was their total price? Was this a free estimate? You might get a second opinion.

If you have basic mechanic skills you can do a top end rebuild yourself. a "CP" 11:1 piston, cylinder bored, timing chain and gaskets should be under $500 USD. But a valve adjustment could be done the first time in a evening following the manual.
 
#9 ·
Yeah thats true but as soon as they jump started it and heard the clanking sound from the top part of the engine they shut it off and said they cant do anything unless it messes it up more.

They did not open the engine, and when i asked how much it'll cost to do a rebuild he said around ÂŁ1000+

not sure about compression, value adjustment etc as they did not check it.

I have good mechanical skills with cars and bikes etc and could do it myself if i know what to buy for the bike and how to take it apart etc.

Could you please make a list of what ill need to test everything? valves , compression etc?? would be highly appreciated as this is my first quad bike
 
#10 ·
Ask if they have a "bore scope", this allows locking in the motor thru the spark plug hole. You need a firm price for repairs, not we'll open it and charge more money.

Real loud clanking could be bent or broken valves and prolly wouldn't run.
Or valve noise could need valve adjustment and/or a timing chain is loose.
A bad lower crank bearing could make a lot of noise.

I would say check the timing chain, then pull the head off and that should reveal what's wrong.

Approximate US prices, and in USD;
CP 11:1 piston, $225. There are cheaper but don't have the quality.
Factory Yamaha head and base gasket, $75.
Timing chain, $25-$30.
Bore and hone cylinder, $75-$100.
If the crank is bad, look for a new motor as all the bearings will have metal chips in them.
 
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#11 ·
Thanks,

So the bikes now in my garage as thye said take it due to lack of space, they are a two wheel motorcyle Specialist. So as the noise is coming from the top of the engine, ill take the head off first?

So first steps wuld be to check timing chain? how do I check this? there are videos on youtube that should it on the raptor 700 engine, ( are they similar ?)

Next would be to take the top head off and see if anything is broken? or shall i take the valve case off and see if they are fine?

Also the parts you listed , i found a CP piston set on here http://jsdmachineworks.com/cp-pistons-01-05-yamaha-raptor-660-big-bore-piston-4mm-stroker/ is this the correct one?

It would also be much help if you can send me links to the correct parts as there are many websites etc and im not sure which ones sell genuine ones.

I will tear the top end apart this weekend, i will also try and start the bike and video record to show you what the sound is?
 
#12 ·
First let me say I'm not real familiar with the 660, but I'm going by general motor knowledge. First, you should message Morphrider, with a email address, as he may have a link for a free service manual.

You remove the timing chain center bolt and spring. Then remove the adjuster and count the teeth to see how far the adjuster is extended as a indicator of chain stretch. Then, carefully take the valve cover off, it may be glued on. Then check the timing marks on the crank and alignment with the cam. All this is in the manual and you can continue with it. I would be typing all day only to quote the manual. Then if you get stuck, you can ask individual questions for help.

The piston in your link is not correct as you don't have a stroker. BUT, you should wait to order a piston as your cylinder may need machining requiring a oversize piston. Also I saw a option for a DLC wrist pin. You don't one.
 
#14 ·
Ask if they have a "bore scope", this allows locking in the motor thru the spark plug hole. You need a firm price for repairs, not we'll open it and charge more money.

Real loud clanking could be bent or broken valves and prolly wouldn't run.
Or valve noise could need valve adjustment and/or a timing chain is loose.
A bad lower crank bearing could make a lot of noise.

I would say check the timing chain, then pull the head off and that should reveal what's wrong.

Approximate US prices, and in USD;
CP 11:1 piston, $225. There are cheaper but don't have the quality.
Factory Yamaha head and base gasket, $75.
Timing chain, $25-$30.
Bore and hone cylinder, $75-$100.
If the crank is bad, look for a new motor as all the bearings will have metal chips in them.
My posts 10 and 12 answer your questions. Except you don't need a compression gauge or a bore scope. That was if the shop was gonna do a blanket estimate without knowing what's wrong. My price estimates may be lower for a 660 as I'm more familiar with 700 prices.

Did you message Morphrider for a manual??
 
#13 ·
Hi thanks,

So if you don't mind could you make me a list of everything i need for a engine rebuild and i will attempt to do it myself?

Any compression testing machines etc also required or just parts?

Would be much appreciated
 
#15 ·
Ok thank you ill take a look and see if i can order them parts. I have been watching michael sabo on youtube where he takes apart his raptor 700 motor and rebuilds it all. Would this be the same for the 660?

I found the manual on a post my morphirider and downloaded it, its amazing has everything so i did not need to message him for it.
 
#16 ·
You shouldn't order a piston till you know what size you need. The cylinder most likely will need to be bored our, requiring the next size or two piston.
 
#17 ·
How do i find out what size mine is? what do you mean the cylinder needs to be bored out?

If this is not a simple rebuild of taking old parts out and fitting new engine parts, do you think its best if i just take it to a mechanic?

Have no issue if its a case of replacing parts with no further things etc...
 
#18 ·
First you need to find out what's wrong. Start by checking timing marks, follow your manual. Take the valve cover and head off.

Second determine what parts need replaced. Normal top end rebuild includes timing chain, gaskets, bore the cylinder and new piston. You would take the cylinder to a machinist who would bore it and determine the size for the piston. This is in your manual.

Check the head, in the manual.

You should read the rebuild procedure in the manual a few times to familiarize yourself with how it's done. It may sound hard but only takes basic mechanical skills and the manual.
 
#20 ·
30 miles South of Seattle Washington, USA.
 
#22 ·
Haha, I knew what you meant. I was just messing with you.

If you guys could get together that would be great. It's hard to type complete teardown instructions. That's why the manual is so important.
 
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#25 ·
Ah thats a shame, I am going to take a look to see whats wrong with it soon, never have time. I got the manual now as well so can follow that.

I want to rebuild my quad but i cant even get it started lol - wanted to give it a good overhaul, clean every bit and refresh it up.

Also, if you can give me any tips on how to diagnose the problem etc that would be good?
 
#28 ·
So i took off the valve cover, aligned the I mark with the groove on the thread and the valves looked fine.

Went to take off cylinder head, 3 of the bolts have been stripped by previous mechanic, took two off but the third just wont come out because i cant hammer in the allen key, so just left it and will just not do anymore work on it anymore.

Dont have the time to do anything else with this quad bike or the correct workshop to carry out the repair , so im going to sell it . Let me know if anyone is interested.

Please private message me if your interested. I am based in the south of England, (Oxford)

It is a special edition 660 2005, with a 06 plate.

thanks

Thanks for the help everyone :)
 

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#29 ·
Lots of ways to get that out. Try hammering a star bit into that wore out hex hole. No go? They sell a tool for removing rounded off nuts, hammer it on and as you turn it left, the teeth inside cut into the bolt head and it breaks loose. Still no? CAREFULLY weld a nut to the top and just use that. Stripped thread holes? Heli-coils work great...

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#30 ·
I hammered the star key into two of them, this one is situated just below the frame at a awkward angle. Its the bold in front of the spark plug. I cant get any hammer or anything in the gap to hammer something into the bolt.
 
#34 ·
Hi mate just seen your post im not a full time mechanic unfortunately ive just stripped and rebuilt quite a few of these i would gladly help out if i was closer but with work commitments its hard. Just try and stay persistent with it as its already striped down.thers is always a way round things. And like deparado says a broken down quad aint worth owt so dont sell it. If you have any pics of the damage we can always try to advise you if it helps.
 
#37 ·
Did you try the multi spiral type ez-out and lots of heat from a propane torch or heat gun. Do you have a welder? As said before, weld a nut on top. Or, can you get a drill bit in there. Use a bit slightly bigger the bolt, then drill the head off. Slide the head off then remove the bolt with vice grips.
 
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#41 ·
Try filling the hole with jb weld. Then hammer in a star bit thats tight, and add more jb weld around it and let cure

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#42 ·
Applied lot of heat and then put a start key inside and hammered it then it unscrewed out. Cylinder head is off, now i cant seem to see or spot at broken bits or anything, please check the pictures i have attached?

Whats the next step as this all looks fine?

The chain has a tiny bit play in it but nothing major.
 

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