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Yamaha Raptor 700R Oil Change Procedure

Remove the oil dipstick from the top left side of the oil tank.



Remove the crankcase oil filler cap from the right side of the engine on the clutch cover.



Remove all 3 oil drain bolts.
A. The First one is located on the bottom of the engine cases near the center. You may have to remove the engine skid plate depending on what type of plate you're running. This bolt will allow the oil from the crank case to drain. The size of the bolt is 22mm, but a 6 point 7/8" socket will work as well.



B. The Second one is located at the bottom of the oil tank. This bolt will allow the oil from the oil tank to drain and should require a 12mm wrench or socket. Again you may have a skid plate in the way, you can either drill a hole for access or remove the skid plate.




C. The Third one is located on the right hand side of the engine, the bottom of the 3 bolts holding the oil filter cover on.



After removing the drain bolts allow for the oil to drain completely. Rock it, roll it or just allow the ATV to drain on a level surface. When the oil has drained out return the crankcase and oil tank drain bolts to their respective locations (hold off on the oil filter drain bolt if you are replacing the filter, that step will come shortly). The service manual will recommend 17ft lbs on the crank case bolt, 13ft lbs for the oil tank bolt but I typically hand tighten them to my satisfaction. BE VERY CAREFUL with tightening these bolts, especially the crankcase drain bolt as it can strip out very easily.

If you are replacing the oil filter continue with this following step. If not put the oil filter drain bolt back in place and skip down the list. Torque spec is 7.2ft lbs for the oil filter drain bolt.

The oil filter is located on the right side of the ATV under a cover and secured by 3 bolts. You have already removed the lower bolt, the drain bolt, in a previous step. Now you need to remove the other two bolts and remove the cover. On the inside of the cover is an o-ring, inspect this for damage or warping. If it's bad it needs to be replaced.




Now you can remove the old filter. Note the orientation, the open end of the filter goes to the back, the closed end to the front. There are o-rings on each end, these are part of the filter and can be discarded along with it.

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Insert the new filter in the same orientation (open end pointed towards the engine)




Replace the oil filter cover, the two upper bolts (long ones) and the shorter, lower oil drain bolt.



All the oil is out, all three bolts are replaced and tight, and the oil filter is replaced (maybe). Now to add oil. But you may have some questions.

A. How Much Oil? First off let me say that every engine is not the same! You will have to treat your ATV like an individual. They are all close but depending on how owners care for their ATV's and just random variables can make these numbers change. You should purchase 3 US qts to be safe.

Here are the oil capacities listed by the OEM service manual.

Overhaul
Total amount
2.30 L (2.02 Imp qt, 2.43 US qt)
Quantity in oil tank
1.30 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
Quantity in crankcase
1.00 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06 US qt)

Periodic oil replacement
Total amount
1.75 L (1.54 Imp qt, 1.85 US qt)
Quantity in oil tank
1.30 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
Quantity in crankcase
0.45 L (0.40 Imp qt, 0.48 US qt)

With oil filter element replacement
Total amount
1.85 L (1.63 Imp qt, 1.96 US qt)
Quantity in oil tank
1.30 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
Quantity in crankcase
0.55 L (0.48 Imp qt, 0.58 US qt)

B. Which Oil Brand? You make the choice, YAMALUBE 4 is the easiest choice but there are almost as many options as there are atvs. I would suggest reading other threads to help you make your own decision.

C. Which Weight of OIL? Referring to the manual, 40degrees F to 120degrees F use 20W40, 10degrees F to 100degrees F use 10W30, Under 30degrees F use 5W30. Basically the hotter the weather the thicker the oil and the colder the weather the thinner the oil. You are free to choose other weights, but the manual's suggestions are a good guideline and in most situations I agree with it.

You add oil TWO locations, the crankcase and the oil tank. If you are replacing the filter then you may be able to simply add one quart to each location and get quite close to the proper level. Otherwise follow the above specifications for oil amounts and locations.

Replace the oil tank dipstick and the crankcase filler cap (torque spec for this is 8.7ft lbs). Start the engine and either let it idle or putt around a little bit until the engine has time to warm up. Now you need to pull it back in, shut it off and check the oil level. Remove the dipstick, wipe it off with a rag or paper towel. Then insert the dipstick back into the oil tank, DO NOT screw in the dipstick. Check your oil level; if you need more add it to the tank, if you have too much try using a turkey baster or syringe to siphon some out of the tank or simply crack open one of the oil drain bolts. After you have the proper level wipe down any oil spills and replace the engine skid plate.

Hopefully this helps to clarify the process and save you money by doing it yourself. Please post any questions or suggestions here, THANKS!
 

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wait so are you supposed to check the oil level immediately after turning it off? cause I've always waited a few minutes for it, cause thats what Ive always been told to do.. have I been doing it wrong all this time?! Also I've never put any in the crankcase itself, Ive always just put it in the tank up front, Im pretty sure thats what my manual said to do... god I hope I havent been doing it wrong all this time. =/ I feel like a tard.
 

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You have to wait a couple of minutes after shutting off to get an accurate reading and yes you have to put some of the oil in the crankcase...
 

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You have to wait a couple of minutes after shutting off to get an accurate reading and yes you have to put some of the oil in the crankcase...
yeah I went and looked thru my owners manual again on the oil change and the page that says that was stuck to the other page by some glue or something. never saw that page. I always thought it was kinda odd to just put it in the front but I figured they probably know how to change the oil on a machine they made so who am I to judge.... anyways i'll be changing my oil tomorrow properly =)
 

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You have to wait a couple of minutes after shutting off to get an accurate reading and yes you have to put some of the oil in the crankcase...
Like the other guy only put 2 qts in the tank. I let it run then checked the level and it was fine. It all cycles thru your just gonna be missing lubrication on inition startup right????
 

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I dident see replace the crush washer after each oil change might be a good idea to add it. I always put a new one in on the underbelly drain plug. They cost like 10 cents just an extra precaution. And also dont over tighten those bolts they all strip easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I have a CFM oversized aluminum oil tank. Anyone know how much extra oil they hold?
According to the CFM Ebay Store:

Our oil tank holds 10% more oil than any other aftermarket oil tank. It holds 1.25 more quarts than your stock oil tank.
I dident see replace the crush washer after each oil change might be a good idea to add it. I always put a new one in on the underbelly drain plug. They cost like 10 cents just an extra precaution. And also dont over tighten those bolts they all strip easy.
I don't replace the crush washer very often, in fact I don't recall ever changing it when it wasn't leaking. That said, it's certainly not a bad idea for as cheap as they are and should make it less likely to over-tighten the drain plug.
 

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Ok so I've decided to change my oil. But first I was curious as to the engine oil level first as it was done by the dealer the first time (at 10 hours). So as per the manual I warmed 'er up for a good 4 minutes and shut 'er off. Then I put 'er on level ground and checked the oil in the tank. When I opened the cap a ton of oil was leaking out of the filler cap and oozing down the side of the tank. Assuming the manual is right, the oil level should be between the F and E, right? I'm I missing something here or did the dealer screw me and overfill it?
 

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Change the oil filter drain the tank and then undo the under belly plug open the crankcase plug so it will ooze out faster then replace everything. Add one quart to the tank and add one to the crankcase. Your done. Start it up. Rev it a little shut it off check oil level in tank you should be toped off and ready to fly. Dont do like the stupid dealer and overfill it. I recommend synthetic oil when your break in is good and done.

Had mine new and changed the oil and filter out after 10 hours. then another 10 hours later changed the filter again and the oil and put in synthetic oil. Runs awesome.
 

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I just got my Raptor and the oil & filter to change the oil so this thread caught my attention. I read the manual a few times and it never does "clearly" say to pour oil directly into the crankcase.

The two are called Engine oil filler cap (The one with the dipstick) and Crankcase engine oil filler cap.
But I do notice they vary a little on the exact wording at times if you you read the steps carefully. So that may be where the confusion is.

12) Install the engine oil filler cap, and the tighten it to the specified torque.
(Notice it didn't say Crankcase engine oil filler cap)

13) It states "Pour only 1.37US qt of the specified amount of the recommended engine oil through the engine oil tank filler hole"
(Now since the tank is referenced it must mean the one with the dipstick attached)
 

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Do what you want! I just took the info from the pros on here and they have yet to be prooved wrong. Have fun.
 

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Change the oil filter drain the tank and then undo the under belly plug open the crankcase plug so it will ooze out faster then replace everything. Add one quart to the tank and add one to the crankcase. Your done. Start it up. Rev it a little shut it off check oil level in tank you should be toped off and ready to fly. Dont do like the stupid dealer and overfill it. I recommend synthetic oil when your break in is good and done.
Thanks fast frenchie canada for your response.

Yeah, that's exactly what I had done and it seems to be good to go. Instead of putting the original crankcase plug back in, I installed one of those magnetic (12mm) plugs instead from TM designs. Now both plug are the same size which is nice. <sarcasm> Next time I see the dealer/service dude I'm going to thank him for overfilling. </sarcasm>
 

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No problem, If you only fill it in the tank it aint good you need some in the crankcase also so its all lubricated. 1 quart in the tank and i quart in the crank and check the oil you should be perfectly toped off once you have started it up and shut it off with a couple off blips on the throttle to move it around real good. I am each time i do it that way. And mag plugs are good just dont over tighten and dont follow those recommended torque numbers they are full of it. Just tighten by hand then give it a 1/4 turn with the ratchet and you wont strip them out because the crankcase is made of aluminum and real buttery soft so dont go crazy or you will regret it. Use a crush washer on that belly bolt its just an added precaution. I do all this everytime and havent had a problem since i bought my baby brand new. Now tell me this how do you like that Rappy?

Before i forget seing this is your first Raptor i think, when your break in is done ajust your valves yourself just search for MPleaver. He made a really good thread on it with pics. I did it with an oil change in about 45 minutes or so then you do it after every year and it will always run like new. Its too easy and you wont need to spend money to have it done.
 
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