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Do what you want! I just took the info from the pros on here and they have yet to be prooved wrong. Have fun.
No problem, If you only fill it in the tank it aint good you need some in the crankcase also so its all lubricated. 1 quart in the tank and i quart in the crank and check the oil you should be perfectly toped off once you have started it up and shut it off with a couple off blips on the throttle to move it around real good. I am each time i do it that way. And mag plugs are good just dont over tighten and dont follow those recommended torque numbers they are full of it. Just tighten by hand then give it a 1/4 turn with the ratchet and you wont strip them out because the crankcase is made of aluminum and real buttery soft so dont go crazy or you will regret it. Use a crush washer on that belly bolt its just an added precaution. I do all this everytime and havent had a problem since i bought my baby brand new. Now tell me this how do you like that Rappy?
Easy :), I am not arguing, I think what you are saying is better. I just wish the manual had it that way, maybe the newer ones do.
 

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No they just get real technical this amount and that amount of oil. Just F that. I asked FLWoods, Carpenter, SpiderPaleFace and a bunch of others they will probably tell you similar to what i told you. Bro's on here are a ok in my book they take the time to tell you the real stuff. Dont bother measuring everything just poor 1 here and the other quart there and your good to go. I love my rappy and really baby it but not to a point of measuring every freaking ML for my oil come on. I dont got time to waste i wanna ride ride ride.
 

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Rotella?

Speaking of oil and changes...is, or has anyone here used Rotella oil. I've spoken with quite a few peeps including some respectable mechanics that say it's as good or better than most anything else out there....and its cheap. Cheap enough to be able to change your oil after every 10 hours or less without going broke. $15.00 per gallon vs 11 or 12 bux per quart of the "you should use this brand" stuff!

Thought I'd get a little feedback from youz guyz too...
 

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Alot use it without any problem. Im sold on my 2 quarts of synthetic blend for sport atv. Hey oil is oil. Its alot like pepsi and coca-cola. Thats all im going to say because i dont use Rotella-T. Its good as any other oil your going to use its up to you to change it regurlarly and take care of your engine.
 

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Alot use it without any problem. Im sold on my 2 quarts of synthetic blend for sport atv. Hey oil is oil. Its alot like pepsi and coca-cola. Thats all im going to say because i dont use Rotella-T. Its good as any other oil your going to use its up to you to change it regurlarly and take care of your engine.
Yup, couldn't agree more about the maintenance thing. That's why I figure changing more often is better, especially since you can detect if something has gone wrong more readily with frequent changes....thus the cheaper Rotella. What I CAN say though, is that after a 3 day dune trip and two 3 hour XC rides the Rotella still came back out significantly more golden than any expensive thumper oil I've ever used....go figure....
 

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OIL synth or dino will always be a choice your going to make on your own. You can get people to say this and that about this and that oil. Comes down to you and your wallet. Ok ok so synth is better than regular dino oil. But i wont go in the brand debate no f-ing way. On a lighter side i choose my oil by taste and the nice colours on the bottles its alot easier LMAO.
 

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OIL synth or dino will always be a choice your going to make on your own. You can get people to say this and that about this and that oil. Comes down to you and your wallet. Ok ok so synth is better than regular dino oil. But i wont go in the brand debate no f-ing way. On a lighter side i choose my oil by taste and the nice colours on the bottles its alot easier LMAO.
agreed!! oil is oil if you maintain your bike right. now i won't get the complete generic shtuff that comes in a red bottle with black label that says "Motor Oil" but i don't buy the expensive stuff either. i usually just buy any synthetic wet clutch oil that is cheap and has some kind of name i can get when i want to change my oil at whatever place is open at the time.

and when your taste testing your oil frenchie, do they let you put it back on the shelf after you stick your finger in it? :lol: jk
 

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and when your taste testing your oil frenchie, do they let you put it back on the shelf after you stick your finger in it? :lol: jk
If they dont catch me yes! LMAO. And if they do i just poor it on the floor and run like hell LOL...
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I just got my Raptor and the oil & filter to change the oil so this thread caught my attention. I read the manual a few times and it never does "clearly" say to pour oil directly into the crankcase.

The two are called Engine oil filler cap (The one with the dipstick) and Crankcase engine oil filler cap.
But I do notice they vary a little on the exact wording at times if you you read the steps carefully. So that may be where the confusion is.

12) Install the engine oil filler cap, and the tighten it to the specified torque.
(Notice it didn't say Crankcase engine oil filler cap)

13) It states "Pour only 1.37US qt of the specified amount of the recommended engine oil through the engine oil tank filler hole"
(Now since the tank is referenced it must mean the one with the dipstick attached)
Notice it says ENGINE oil filler cap, the oil tank isn't the engine, and that's the only other filler cap. The crankcase is part of the engine, in fact it's the base of it. I think you're getting hung up on semantics.

Notice how in 13 they reference the "engine oil TANK"? There would be no reason to reference the tank part of that unless the step in #12 was different.

The manual does it's best to be clear but sometimes people need pictures to help them understand or to verify what they're reading. That's what this thread is for, clarification.
 

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Notice it says ENGINE oil filler cap, the oil tank isn't the engine, and that's the only other filler cap. The crankcase is part of the engine, in fact it's the base of it. I think you're getting hung up on semantics.

Notice how in 13 they reference the "engine oil TANK"? There would be no reason to reference the tank part of that unless the step in #12 was different.

The manual does it's best to be clear but sometimes people need pictures to help them understand or to verify what they're reading. That's what this thread is for, clarification.
Hey Mad Dog, Your method is the best way and I did it that way when I changed the oil and it worked great.
My point above was just to show/highlight 1) how the 2007 Manual isn't consistent with its wording and 2) it also does not have you pour oil directly into the crankcase which I think it should. Maybe later year manuals are written that way.

It has you remove the crankcase plug in an earlier step to vent the draining oil and then they want you to reinstall it (step 12) and "torque" to the specified rating before you start to put oil into the quad (step 13) by adding to just the tank.

As for symatics, I work in a "high tech" industry and have to read and sometimes correct technical manuals and procedures everyday for my job so the wording is very important to me on most procedures as it can mean the difference between a successful repair and a happy customer or very expensive damage and an irrate customer!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Just went through my manual because I didn't think the OEM manual was that vague. Are you reading the OEM owner's manual or OEM service manual? I don't know of a new service manual for separate years, but I'm sure there's a supplement for the newer models with hood changes and parts microfiche updates.

Here's what the OEM service manual says, from page 3-23 from the manual that you can download from the sticky on this site in the archive.
 

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Thanks for the info. My 06 OEM manual reads only putting oil in the oil tank to fill. I never thought that seemed right and added a small amount to the crankcase and the rest in the tank. Any further references on this would be helpful.
 

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Just went through my manual because I didn't think the OEM manual was that vague. Are you reading the OEM owner's manual or OEM service manual? I don't know of a new service manual for separate years, but I'm sure there's a supplement for the newer models with hood changes and parts microfiche updates.

Here's what the OEM service manual says, from page 3-23 from the manual that you can download from the sticky on this site in the archive.
I am refering to my 2007 Owners Manual. I also have the soft copy of it and the Service manual I downloaded. My wife is a Technical writer so she was able to unlock the PDF so I can copy and paste in the steps directly from the manual. I think you will then see it never has you put oil into the crank case.

To change the engine oil (with or without oil
filter element replacement)
1. Place the ATV on a level surface.
2. Start the engine, warm it up for several minutes,
and then turn it off.
3. Place an oil pan under the engine to collect
the used oil.
4. Remove the engine oil filler cap and the crankcase
engine oil drain bolt.
5. Remove the engine oil tank filler cap and the
engine oil tank drain bolt.
6. Check the washers for damage, and replace if
necessary.
NOTE:
Skip steps 7–10 if the oil filter element is not being
replaced.
7. Remove the oil filter element cover by removing
the bolts, and then remove the oil filter element.
8. Check the O-rings for damage, and replace
them if necessary.
9. Install a new oil filter element and the O-rings.
NOTE:
Make sure that the O-rings are properly seated.
10. Install the oil filter element cover by installing
the bolts, and then tighten them to the specified
torque.
11. Install the crankcase engine oil drain bolt and
the engine oil tank drain bolt, and then tighten
them to the specified torques.

Tightening torques:
Crankcase engine oil drain bolt:
23 Nm (2.3 m·kgf, 16.6 ft·lbf)
Engine oil tank drain bolt:
19 Nm (1.9 m·kgf, 13.7 ft·lbf)

12. Install the engine oil filler cap, and then tighten
it to the specified torque. << This is the crank case plug on top <<

Tightening torque:
Engine oil filler cap:
12 Nm (1.2 m·kgf,8.7 ft·lbf)

13. Pour only 1.3 L (1.37 US qt, 1.16 Imp.qt) of the
specified amount of the recommended engine
oil through the engine oil tank filler hole, and
then install and tighten the oil tank filler cap.
14. Start the engine, rev it several times, and then
turn it off.
15. Remove the engine oil tank filler cap, and then
gradually fill the oil tank with the remaining oil
quantity while regularly checking the oil level
on the dipstick.
16. Install and tighten the engine oil tank filler cap.

Thanks for the info. My 06 OEM manual reads only putting oil in the oil tank to fill. I never thought that seemed right and added a small amount to the crankcase and the rest in the tank. Any further references on this would be helpful.
Exactly what I have been saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
There's the problem, it's the owner's manual. :thumbsup:

Notice how they call it the engine oil filler cap...yet at no point do they say fill the atv with oil via that hole :lol:

You can certainly add everything to the tank if you wish, that's the way the Raptor 660 works. I personally don't prefer it and don't really see any benefit to such a procedure.
 

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There's the problem, it's the owner's manual. :thumbsup:

Notice how they call it the engine oil filler cap...yet at no point do they say fill the atv with oil via that hole :lol:...
Exactly my friend. :D
 

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Good write-up. I bought a 30 dollar torque wrench and I'm glad I did because I was surprised at how "un-tight" those torques are. Now wonder so many people strip out their crankcase plug. I recommend getting a torque wrench because your screwed if it's too tight or too loose.
 
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Good write-up. I bought a 30 dollar torque wrench and I'm glad I did because I was surprised at how "un-tight" those torques are. Now wonder so many people strip out their crankcase plug. I recommend getting a torque wrench because your screwed if it's too tight or too loose.
I have heard several guys say they damaged the threads while using the torque wrench and the factory spec torque.

I make it finger tight and then turn it 1/8th turn with a wrench and walk away. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Hex/allen key, don't recall the exact size off hand but the cheap kits from Harbor Freight have it as well as the larger kits that Lowe's and Sears sell. Don't recall if it's in the manual, if not I'm sure someone will stumble upon the information and post it up.
 
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