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I run standard DID chains, though I'm not doing much road running. Not much in the way of "bad brands" as there are "cheap brands" that make lower strength chains. While you won't see me running the cheap colored chains on ebay, I've seen a 700 based 727 with a 10 over arm and a healthy shot of nitrous run just such a chain for a dune season without having any problems. I would pay the most attention to the tensile strength and stick with a well-known brand. The two that I've broken on my 660 were both O-ring chains rated at 7800 or better from common companies, in both instances it was likely exacerbated if not caused by the inversion of the swingarm increasing the tension on the chain by stretching. That and sub zero temps.

Keeping the chain properly adjusted and making sure it doesn't go too loose or too taught through the full range of suspension travel will go a long way towards keeping your chain on one piece. This is also why you are meant to adjust the chain with the rider on the machine, to simulate the riding condition. Without the rider on the machine the standard adjustment on an unladen bike will be too tight once the rider gets on and travels through the suspension arc.

This is of special note to those riding low like I was (for ice racing, you may be for the road). As the rear of the bike gets lower by means of linkage changes, shorter shocks, or reduced preload the swingarm gets closer and closer to being parallel with the ground. The closer it gets to this, the longer the distance becomes from the rear sprocket to the front as the rear sprocket travels along the arc created by the swingarm. This increase in distance means the chain will need to be longer to compensate or suffer increased strain. If you go very low you will eventually pass the point where the swingarm is parallel and it will become inverted, shortening the distance from the rear sprocket to the front. If your machine passes through all 3 stages; standard, parallel, and inverted, then you're significantly increasing your chances of breaking a chain due to the wide variance in the distance from the rear sprocket to the front.
 

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YOU WISH
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Just a little bit of input.

I know I am coming out of nowhere here and dont mean to interrupt but I had my chain come of many times (Do to cheap masters/an older chain) I also think the lowering kit makes it harder to adjust properly. Out of 4 times it only once wrapped around my sprocket. (rear) it cam up and slapped the rear grab bar the it was to short to go anywhere when I came to a stop it had fell of but you could see that it did start to wrap around it.

EDIT: When I sit on my bike the chain gets looser. I have can tell because I have cut plastics.... I would recommend heating up the very tip of the pins that stick through on the master til they are cherry red (try not to heat anything else up) Then take a huge hammer and hold it to the non heated side. Then take a small ball pein hammer and pound those pins til you get a mushroom effect. This will make for the greatest master ever. If you need pics or help on anything PM me.
 

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What you're describing is attaching a clip on masterlink like a rivet type. I suggest if you are having so many issues with master links that you choose a rivet style instead of the clip style. There are also special tools available to install them. The OEM is an endless chain, and many road bikes use rivet styles though you can get both types.

I've never had a clip style masterlink come apart that was installed correctly but they can fail just like anything else. The most common issue I see with the clip style is on o-ring and x-ring chains where there is difficulty seating the clip all the way on.
 

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I would recommend heating up the very tip of the pins that stick through on the master til they are cherry red (try not to heat anything else up) Then take a huge hammer and hold it to the non heated side. Then take a small ball pein hammer and pound those pins til you get a mushroom effect. This will make for the greatest master ever. If you need pics or help on anything PM me.
Please don't do this, with something as small as a master link there is no way to properly heat the link without the whole link heating up. When you heat something that has already been heat treated you are actually damaging the structural integrity of the piece also melting the orings in the chain (given its an oring chain). Not to mention you are using something in a manor that is not described by the manufacturer. If you want a clip style link buy one, if you want to rivet link your chains buy a rivet link chain and the proper tool to do so. This is more possible dangerous information that people spread for the purpose to save a few pennies...
 

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If you don't wreck, you don't ride
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EDIT: When I sit on my bike the chain gets looser. I have can tell because I have cut plastics.... I would recommend heating up the very tip of the pins that stick through on the master til they are cherry red (try not to heat anything else up) Then take a huge hammer and hold it to the non heated side. Then take a small ball pein hammer and pound those pins til you get a mushroom effect. This will make for the greatest master ever. If you need pics or help on anything PM me.
Glad somebody caught this before someone actually did this and potentially hurt themselves.

I use link style, never had a problem. I've always put the open end of the clip facing the rear (so nothing would hit it while in motion, and knocking it loose).
 

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okay guys i know i shouldnt just come on here and go on about my outlaw but theres rlly not other page that has funny cool ppl on it and i was just seeing how far i could take it and my motor work is : I kept my motor work simple i did a simple big bore kit on the engine with my full exhaust systems. i had Millennium Technologies re-Nicasil the cylinder, and the displacement went from 510cc to a full 532cc. We went from stock horsepower of 55.71 to a hearty 67.71hp on a dyno. i also put a 570 bore and stroker kit which brings the overall Outlaw 525 hp to a whopping 83.71 hp!”
......and thats wat i did and the jd jetting was need because of the big bore so i dnt burn my valves because of not enough fuel and a k & n was need because ktm says use k & n and the full exhuast and i have swomp tires itp rimes nerf polaris bars hand guards and dg bumper and wheelie bar with graphic kit las vegas. and i had a raptor 660 with all kinds of mods and nothing but problems coudnt take it yamaha does have a big market but ktm comes ready to go and have fun like there 505 sx quad that is nice all mods done to it for 10,799 and i think its awesome...
 

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sorry

and i got off to a bad start but im sorry guys u ppl on here are cool and well idc my name is chis and live in P.A and where i live nothing but polaris and honda.:D and how do i post a pic of my quad????
 

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From The Stix 2 Da Brix
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It's all good bud. I love this type of bench or keyboard racing. Kinda like bar stool racing it's the only time I can drink and race at the sametime. So how's your buddy? What part of Pa you live in.
 

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So why are you on a Yamaha board if all you care about is Polaris/Honda?Maddog its time to lay down the law!! Who cares whats faster in a straightaway..how about a tight race through the woods?
 

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thanks dud and i live in honesdale pretty much a redneck town and im not one of them and i fuckin hate redneck and i race the track called hurricane hills and ive won alot not many ppl could rlly keep up with me and how do i get a pic of my quad on here and wat u mean buddy?????..and pretty much by scraton coal hill hard to explain if u dnt know this area.
 

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From The Stix 2 Da Brix
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I like any type of race.
 

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and im on raptor site because theres rlly know where to go dud and the woods is where i pretty much race because of my irs outlaw its a beast in the woods and its like a sportsman.. and i like any kind of race also...
 

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From The Stix 2 Da Brix
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I was talking to dude above who says who cares about straight away racing. Didn't your buddy's chain come off and he crashed at beginning of thread.
 

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From The Stix 2 Da Brix
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Yeah you up by Scranton. I was up that way for a super chevy show this summer. I work nationwide and ride a lot of em when I can take quad with me.
 

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From The Stix 2 Da Brix
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To post pics upload them at tinypic.com then copy code and paste up here it'll show up nice
 

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I live very close to you.
 
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