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Discussion Starter #41
Well, now it's doing it again.

Accidentally left the key on, killed the battery. Ok, just out in a new one, start it up, and its back to running exactly the same as before all of this.

I'm at a loss, and I'm really frustrated at this point.....

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Well, now it's doing it again.

Accidentally left the key on, killed the battery. Ok, just out in a new one, start it up, and its back to running exactly the same as before all of this.

I'm at a loss, and I'm really frustrated at this point.....

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So the only thing that changed is a dead battery? Take a voltage reading of the battery, stopped and running. Stopped you'll want about 13.5 volts, and increasing to around 14 volts when running. A dead battery will take a few days or more to reach a full charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I'll do that, but this is a new battery in the raptor at this point

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Discussion Starter #44
I put the raptor on my float charger because I forgot to bring my meter home from work.

I don't know what's going on here but I really think this raptor starts way too easy in the cold. It's 19*F here and it started almost instantly without choke. It also gives a little black smoke when I rev it up. Given its probably warmer than that in my garage, but my grizzly needs choke to start at these temps.

I really want to pin this thing down and get it running right. That two hours it ran great were fun.



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Have you done the "Clear tube method" to make sure the float height is correct?
The float setting instructions in the 660 service manual are Not the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I have set the float heights, yes. I will double check them, but don't expect an issue.l

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Discussion Starter #47
On voltages, battery is 13.4 volts, 13.2 key on, 14.6 running

And to give more data, 32*f no choke, fires first revolution

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Were you running without lid previously, but now have lid on?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
No, I have had the basically gutted lid on this thing the whole time.

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Discussion Starter #50
I just noticed the metal bend on my choke is loose and a goose. Could that cause this issue? Not sure if it seals or not

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Discussion Starter #51
Choke has nothing to do with it. I think at this point I just didn't clean the carbs well enough. Here they are after two cans of spray carb cleaner I used today.

Any suggestions on dissolving this sand like crap?


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Popping will usually indicate lean along with a clean (white) spark plug.
Blub-blub-blubbing will indicate rich along with a dark (black) spark plug.
Going back to post #25, is it popping or blub-blubbing? Then I would adjust the needles up or down one notch..

Use a small copper or brass brush and a slow drying solvent. You could consider a aluminum brightener acid, like a mag wheel cleaner. BUT, BE CAREFUL, be quick with it and neutralize it as soon as possible. If left on it will eat the aluminum and change all calibrations.

You can soak them in carb cleaner overnight. Run a small copper {speaker} wire thru ALL body orifices, followed with a spray cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I'm not going to make any further jetting or needle adjustments until I'm satisfied the carbs are clean.

Honestly, quite a bit of gunk came out of the carb passages this time.

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The dried stuff in the bodies doesn't hurt as long as the passages are clean. Have you checked the "O" rings for cracking or bloating?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I have, I'll need to replace a few, so likely will just do them all.

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Discussion Starter #56
Well, since I wanted to make sure the carbs were clean, I got an ultrasonic cleaner, and now have cleaned the carbs with it. I'll likely put the carbs back in this weekend.

Something about the sudden recurrence just seems like it's dirty carbs. Some gunk definitely came out of the carbs, so we will have to see soon....

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Ok, carbs are definitely clean, and same issue. However, the problem now appears at multiple throttle positions. And of course now one of my float bowls is leaking through the o-ring, so I'll have to pull and check that today.

At this point, I do not believe the problem is carb related. I should be all set. Good float bowl height, Jets that make sense for mods, sensible needle position, it should not run this poorly based on tuning that needs tweaked.

To be clear, the pronounced popping that happens sounds like your typical decel popping, but is occuring pretty well randomly now. It will do it at 1/8 throttle, 3/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, doesn't matter. It changes from test to test at this point.

Valve clearances are set, fuel is fresh, gas tank is cleaned, I have good fuel flow, I swapped the coil to a known good coil, carb is clean.......


I'm just about to sell this raptor. I've never had this kind of phantom issue with any other vehicle.


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Discussion Starter #58
I don't know how much of a difference this makes, but I just found out the stock exhaust on my raptor has been gutted. At the least the spark arrester was removed.

Wonder if that's a big enough difference to change jet sizes

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I don't know how much of a difference this makes, but I just found out the stock exhaust on my raptor has been gutted. At the least the spark arrester was removed.

Wonder if that's a big enough difference to change jet sizes

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Yes, it may lean it out more, especially at your elevation. I think you need to drop the needles.
 
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