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Discussion Starter #61
Well I'll have to re check all of my figuring it seems. Might be the reason I've been chasing my tail here.

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I'm having some similar issues with a 660. How does one get the needle valves out in order to adjust? I also saw somewhere that leaving the throttle cable cover on the left side of the carb can cause air leaking.

Yes, it may lean it out more, especially at your elevation. I think you need to drop the needles.
 

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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Starting without the choke may be a hint that it's to rich for starting. At your altitude I wonder if the 22.5 pilots might be the answer that hasn't been tried.
The symptoms are changing every time you take the carbs off and on!? I don't think a electrical problem would do that. Are they seated properly? That has been a common problem for others. Are the rubber boots in good condition? No cracking? Clamps positioned properly?

It seams rich for starting with black smoke and then lean popping for mid range. At this point I think the 22.5 pilots and a fatter needle position may help. You said before it wouldn't rev to top end. Is that any better?
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The symptoms don't change every time the carbs come off, it was the same through the original troubleshooting, until I reached the current setup, at that point everything worked perfectly.

Then the battery died, so it sat for a week, replaced the battery, and started giving the original symptoms.

Figuring maybe I had not cleaned the carbs well enough, or maybe I had gunk in the gas tank, I re-cleaned the carbs in an ultrasonic cleaner, and emptied the gask tank, replaced the fuel line, inspected the petcock, and re filled with new gas.

After all of that, is when the new symptoms occurred.


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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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Do you ever go to a lower altitude? I wonder what it would do there?

As above, put the 22.5 pilots in and fatten up the needles.

What does the plug look like?
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I'll pull the plug tomorrow and take a look, but no, I really don't go to lower altitudes much. Pretty much all my riding is done at 5k to 10k feet, but this raptor won't see 10k, I have my grizzly for that.

I'll try the 22.5 Jets and we'll see what happens. I'll also give my carb boots another close inspection. I have sprayed them with starting found and noticed no change in running, so don't think I'll find any issues there, but I guess you never know.

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Discussion Starter #68
22.5 idles in, now it needs choke to start. So at this point I still have the sputtering, and I'm really convinced it's rich.

I have afterfire when letting off the throttle, and at this point it will not reach redline.



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I may be getting older, but I refuse to grow up!
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That doesn't make sense that the pilots affect the redline. Afterfire meaning backfire or what? When riding can you add some choke and see how it reacts? If it gets worse, it's rich. If it gets better it's lean.
I'm sure you're a expert on pulling the carbs, and getting discouraged, but hang in there,
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I called dynojet to get a starting point according to the manufacturer, and they claim I should be three turns out on the 22.5 pilot, in the 4th groove on the needle, and they also claim I should be at a 142 and 144 main. I will have to go over this thread and see if I've tried that before lol.

I certainly have gotten pretty good at pulling and rejetting the carbs lol, I've only done it so many times lol

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Afterfire meaning out the exhaust, where backfiring is out the intake.

Here's the frustrating thing about all of this, after removing the airbox lid initially, leaning and richening the mixture through the petcock and the choke has not changed the symptoms at all. I've tried many times, and nothing. I hate when diagnostic steps like that give no results .

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Discussion Starter #72
Well, I changed the needle position to the fourth notch down per dynojet, and now it runs pretty good accelerating, but has rough power delivery (sputtering, etc) under low load situations like maintaining speed, or slowing down.

I think I'm close, but not there yet

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You said before that you set the float height's.
But did you set them by the service manual, or by the Clear tube method?
If you went by the manual, you Need to go back and do the Clear tube method.
Belive it or not, the service manual float height setting procedure is Not correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I set them to 13 mm, then verified with some vent tube I had.

After cleaning them in the ultrasonic cleaner, I rechecked then, and they didn't seem to move, but I haven't re done the clear tube check yet.

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Discussion Starter #75
Well, it's now running correctly. Found that one of the diaghram wasn't lifting the same as the other. Applied vacuum to test them and despite no visible issues with it, it wouldn't lift consistently.

So, two new oem diaghrams, and we're off to the races.

Obligatory pic of spirited testing aftermath included.


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Thanks for the update and I'm really glad you found it. That's a new one that I haven't heard of before.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
What can I say? I'm the king of oddball mechanical failures lol

From what I can see, it was leaking around the ring that secures it to the slide. Only thing that makes sense. Also, it's possible these were not oem diaghrams.

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rinky - what is your goal? You have not told us any issues, symptoms or desires. We can't read your mind, unfortunately. Also, this thread is over a month old. You'll get more response if you start a new one.
 
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