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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im looking to get into some gncc style racing and wa wondering if anyone has used there 660 for this and what all I will need. I would like to get every thing done before summer but I want to keep the motor mostly stock and I have a tusk clutch kit on the way. Basically ehat suspension works best r 2"+ a-arms to wide do I need nerfs, tether switch, etc. Any info or opinions r great. Thanks in advance.
 

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You need to improve your 1-way if possible. Blowing one on the track would suck. Suspension wise, you can do a lot by having your stock suspension re-worked for your riding style and weight. There are several companies out there that can do it for you. Cheaper than getting a whole new aftermarket suspension.

Tether Kill-switch is mandatory, any will do as long as it works.

After that you can go several different ways:

Protection - Belly and swing arm skids. In the GNCC there are some races where a swing arm skid is not necessary and you can just run a sprocket guard. Other races, you want full coverage. Nerfs are for YOUR protection. Several riders don't use them. If you feel you need them, it can save you from a broken ankle. Otherwise, i'd just do some heel guards for protection and race that way.

Sprockets - changing your gearing on a stock configuration can yield more acceleration in the trails. GNCC is a lot of fast trails, but you will want to increase your acceleration by dropping a tooth on the rear. Experimenting with your gearing is the key. There are few long straights where being able to go 80mph won't matter.

Anti-vibe - Vibration is a killer. You are in that seat for 2 hours and change. You need to cut your wrists some slack. Try a set of anti-vibe risers, +1 or +2" depending on your size and comfort

Steering damper/ stabilizer - The great debate between puck and stick. Here is the truth. Puck is better, always. But for the money, get yourself a rebuildable "stick" style if puck is to rich for you. These will absorb some rocks and bumps, easing the load on you as you ride.

Axle/ a-arms - If you do stretch your quad out, don't go over +1 " in the front or rear. +2 is a struggle in the trails.

Bring out the BIG GUNS:

Fuel - 660's have the benefit of being the last version of Raptor to get a tank made by IMS. Added fuel on board gives you longer time on the track and less time refueling.

Tire - varied on conditions. Muddy trails need a deeper, spread out pattern while the dry races need narrow patterns with lots of knobs for traction. If your knobs are worn down, you won't get the bite you need for the big hills that accompany some of these races.

Motor - upgrades galore. We can start simple and say, hi comp piston, new jetting for the carb and exhaust/ intake mods. Make sure you keep your airbox installed.

Wheels - lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber. OMF or HiPer have been good to XC racers.

Think that's it for now. It's a lot of trial and error. I'd also be on Quadzone.com for more good XC advice. Many of the racers are on that website.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks bud I really appreciate it and I will check out quad zone. Sounds like I have alot to do before I can race.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also whats my one way and do you or anyone you know xc there raptor. Any tips or tricks you can give me and is there any cheap way to lighten it up. Im 6.2" and should be back down to -200 by race time
 

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You need to improve your 1-way if possible. Blowing one on the track would suck. Suspension wise, you can do a lot by having your stock suspension re-worked for your riding style and weight. There are several companies out there that can do it for you. Cheaper than getting a whole new aftermarket suspension.

Tether Kill-switch is mandatory, any will do as long as it works.

After that you can go several different ways:

Protection - Belly and swing arm skids. In the GNCC there are some races where a swing arm skid is not necessary and you can just run a sprocket guard. Other races, you want full coverage. Nerfs are for YOUR protection. Several riders don't use them. If you feel you need them, it can save you from a broken ankle. Otherwise, i'd just do some heel guards for protection and race that way.

Sprockets - changing your gearing on a stock configuration can yield more acceleration in the trails. GNCC is a lot of fast trails, but you will want to increase your acceleration by dropping a tooth on the rear. Experimenting with your gearing is the key. There are few long straights where being able to go 80mph won't matter.

Anti-vibe - Vibration is a killer. You are in that seat for 2 hours and change. You need to cut your wrists some slack. Try a set of anti-vibe risers, +1 or +2" depending on your size and comfort

Steering damper/ stabilizer - The great debate between puck and stick. Here is the truth. Puck is better, always. But for the money, get yourself a rebuildable "stick" style if puck is to rich for you. These will absorb some rocks and bumps, easing the load on you as you ride.

Axle/ a-arms - If you do stretch your quad out, don't go over +1 " in the front or rear. +2 is a struggle in the trails.

Bring out the BIG GUNS:

Fuel - 660's have the benefit of being the last version of Raptor to get a tank made by IMS. Added fuel on board gives you longer time on the track and less time refueling.

Tire - varied on conditions. Muddy trails need a deeper, spread out pattern while the dry races need narrow patterns with lots of knobs for traction. If your knobs are worn down, you won't get the bite you need for the big hills that accompany some of these races.

Motor - upgrades galore. We can start simple and say, hi comp piston, new jetting for the carb and exhaust/ intake mods. Make sure you keep your airbox installed.

Wheels - lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber. OMF or HiPer have been good to XC racers.

Think that's it for now. It's a lot of trial and error. I'd also be on Quadzone.com for more good XC advice. Many of the racers are on that website.
does anyone make a steering stabilizer for the 660's?
 

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i found quite a few on ebay. from reading around on here apparently the puck style is the one to have and all the ones for the 660 are the stick kind. theres a gibon on ebay im thinking about buying...
 

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Never ridden with one before on any kind of bike, but I hear that once you try it, you'll never want to ride a bike without it again. I'll have to wait til I find someone's bike that has one on there though before I go ahead and fork out the money for it though. I guess I won't know what I'm missing if I don't know, right? Lol.
 

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thats what i heard about flexx bars and thought it was BS but now that i have them i cant imagine ridding without them. theres a gibson and a streamline stabilizer on ebay that im torn between. guess im gonna have to start a thread and get some advice. you can ride my bike when you come down with that cooler full of unicorns :lol:
 

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LOL. Dammit we are thread jacking again! Kinda! Flexx bars are something I can positively say I will not spend the money on though lol. If I buy a bike that has them, cool, but I'm not buying them, lol.
 

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son of a bitch we sure are :lol: i bought mine used for $200 shipped with grips, donuts and all the elastamers. im going to the bs thread so i dont clutter anyones elses thread
 

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Research into the 660 threads. One-ways are a big topic with the 660.

There isn't a lot of work required to go out and enjoy a GNCC or local XC race. If you want to win, it has just as much to do with yourself as the quad. Decent suspension, some anti-vibe and you are off to a good start. Power is almost meaningless...almost.

If you are doing a "dead start" race I would look into your quad's starting ability as well. You can still do very good if you dont get the holeshot, but raptors dont start for crap.
 

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You can mount up a CCP stabiliser on a 660, buy the one for a 700, & make a couple of brackets.
If you pm me I can send you a drawing of what is needed
 

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you should look up the rules to the racing though cause im in ny and if i recall when i was looking into it a few summers ago with my 660 you cant widen it at all. has to be stock width can be after market stuff but stock width. it might have changed but better take a peak before you spend the money lol
 

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I agree with most everything posted so far. Suspension is key and frankly I never really race in 5 wide open except on fire roads and that is few in between...

CNC billet on ebay sells a great stabilizer for the money and rebuild kits are 10 bucks...puck style for about 225.00

Josh at Wiigs has done a great job at turning around my stock suspension and as a forum sponsor gives huge discounts when you mention the the forum (Or Team True Racing ) He rebuilds the shock and puts on Race Tec springs and sets it up just for your racing needs and style.

I owe my titanium wrists to Gouts with stock handlebars, I Love my Fasst Flexx bars with anti vibe and think the money is totally worth it.

Stock motors last longer for racing and so I save a lot of dough just keeping it stock...Do recommend an upgrade to your stock air box with a bolt in but you need to keep the box due to water in some races...

Remember 48 inches...that is how wide the course is now a days and so it you do the plus a arms you may have a hard time getting thru Measure when your bike is loaded and fully compressed

Have fun Peace
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the help. Might be getting a set of front shocks off my buddys 727. Is the rear shock that importabt right away? Put a set of hand guards on that I took off my brothers nytro xtx sled. So far I have 60 bucks into this project total for the clutch kit. Looking at either a stabilizer or 2" anti vibe riser next.
 

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I have been racing raptors for years in the desert, which is not GNCC but similar, The biggest mistake I made was spending money on the motor of my 660 instead of suspension. (do you ever get in 5th gear wide open and wish you had more speed in the tight woods, desert?) I now race a 700 but my back up is still my 660 Josh at Wiigs style racing has hooked up forum guys for years and I love my stock rack tek upgrades that he has done.

On ebay, CNC billet makes stabilizers for your bike and they bolt right in, similar to a scott but half the price...Rebuild kits are 10 bucks

honestly, get your tether and skid plates and start racing. You will figure out what else you need as you go. Im almost 50 now and my biggest regret is that I waited till I was 40 before I started racing again...its about fun...

Oh and prayer...There are no atheists on the starting line! (That first race is some scary Poop)

God Bless...J
 
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