Check the wiring harness and look for weak spots. You can also test the resistance between the wire ends with a multimeter, it's easier with digital though. You can pick up a cheap digital multimeter for around $30 and they are well worth the cost. Also make sure to check your ground wires, a bad ground can cause a lot problems. Another thing you could try if you're grounds are good is jump a wire from the battery to the starter to see how it turns over. If it turns over right away then it's something in your harness. But if it doesn't then I would suspect something with the starter being a problem. I'm not extremely knowledgeable with the 660 wiring but electrical is always the same pain in the rear to diagnose problems.
Raptor relay buzzing & eating batteries, Update: Still does it
Most of us will know by now the sound they make with a weak battery. Click click click.
I was busy with my previous career so I couldn't put my mind to it. So I just started replacing parts. First I did the solenoid/relay under the seat. That's where it sounds like the noise is coming from. Nope. Then I just thought it had to be a worn starter that was drawing too much out of the battery. Its a 2001 with original starter so that must be it right? No.
Then I finally had some time to think about this. I bought a new battery again. I thought maybe the valves are way out of adjustment and making it start hard and run bad. And it should be done anyway. So i tore it apart and adjusted the valves. The exhausts were way too loose. I really thought it was part of the problem but no. Changed nothing.
The I watched some diagnostic videos. I figured out it probably isn't charging. I went out and bought a cheap analog multimeter. I discovered that the volts with the new battery disconnected were the same as when the battery was in the bike and running. So aha. It ain't charging.
I unplugged the stator and tested it with the multimeter with the bike running
Now this test showed that the stator was definitely working. But maybe a tad weak. But I am not used to this multimeter. So its probably fine. Then I tested the output coming out of the rectifier/regulator. And it read zero. Zilch. Nothing
So I thought I finally solved it. Ordered a new rectifier/regulator. Put it on. I go to start it. I noticed it click a couple times but then it fired up. I didn't think much of that because maybe the battery was a bit drained (even though I have been trickle charging it all night and day)
I put the multimeter back on the battery with the bike running and it is showing that its charging. Its hard to tell with the analog multimeter but the needle is showing 2 values higher when the bike is running. So say 12 volts when off and 13-14 volts with the bike running at idle. So... its charging right ?
Well it is still clicking before it starts. A couple clicks then the starter kicks in and then it starts. And it doesn't turn over very convincingly. So its doing the same thing still. I bet when the bike is hot, I wont be able to restart it at all. It will just click. That is what it always did. So it is not fixed.
Thoughts ?
I was busy with my previous career so I couldn't put my mind to it. So I just started replacing parts. First I did the solenoid/relay under the seat. That's where it sounds like the noise is coming from. Nope. Then I just thought it had to be a worn starter that was drawing too much out of the battery. Its a 2001 with original starter so that must be it right? No.
Then I finally had some time to think about this. I bought a new battery again. I thought maybe the valves are way out of adjustment and making it start hard and run bad. And it should be done anyway. So i tore it apart and adjusted the valves. The exhausts were way too loose. I really thought it was part of the problem but no. Changed nothing.
The I watched some diagnostic videos. I figured out it probably isn't charging. I went out and bought a cheap analog multimeter. I discovered that the volts with the new battery disconnected were the same as when the battery was in the bike and running. So aha. It ain't charging.
I unplugged the stator and tested it with the multimeter with the bike running
Now this test showed that the stator was definitely working. But maybe a tad weak. But I am not used to this multimeter. So its probably fine. Then I tested the output coming out of the rectifier/regulator. And it read zero. Zilch. Nothing
So I thought I finally solved it. Ordered a new rectifier/regulator. Put it on. I go to start it. I noticed it click a couple times but then it fired up. I didn't think much of that because maybe the battery was a bit drained (even though I have been trickle charging it all night and day)
I put the multimeter back on the battery with the bike running and it is showing that its charging. Its hard to tell with the analog multimeter but the needle is showing 2 values higher when the bike is running. So say 12 volts when off and 13-14 volts with the bike running at idle. So... its charging right ?
Well it is still clicking before it starts. A couple clicks then the starter kicks in and then it starts. And it doesn't turn over very convincingly. So its doing the same thing still. I bet when the bike is hot, I wont be able to restart it at all. It will just click. That is what it always did. So it is not fixed.
Thoughts ?
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starter relay could be going out (only buy oem), or if you used a chinese one their known for causing issues. especially with the 660 try to stay with oem or close too, gonna do double the work if you buy chinese parts.
cheapo stators are known to cause issues too.
cheapo stators are known to cause issues too.
Do you know where the main ground on these things are? That I should checkCheck the wiring harness and look for weak spots. You can also test the resistance between the wire ends with a multimeter, it's easier with digital though. You can pick up a cheap digital multimeter for around $30 and they are well worth the cost. Also make sure to check your ground wires, a bad ground can cause a lot problems. Another thing you could try if you're grounds are good is jump a wire from the battery to the starter to see how it turns over. If it turns over right away then it's something in your harness. But if it doesn't then I would suspect something with the starter being a problem. I'm not extremely knowledgeable with the 660 wiring but electrical is always the same pain in the rear to diagnose problems.
True. I'll admit my parts are borderline cheap but not the cheapest. The rectifier was $260 USD from the local Yamaha dealer so that gave me little choice but to get an Amazon one for $40starter relay could be going out (only buy oem), or if you used a chinese one their known for causing issues. especially with the 660 try to stay with oem or close too, gonna do double the work if you buy chinese parts.
cheapo stators are known to cause issues too.
I got a proper Interstate battery last time so i cheaped out and got an amazon one this time. Maybe this new battery insn't very good. I should find someone to do a battery swap with
Unfortunately I'm not sure. Hopefully someone else will chime in with the locations. You could look at all the wiring harness and anything connected to the frame or negative battery cable is the ground.Do you know where the main ground on these things are? That I should check
I really don't want to jinx it but today I fired it up and it turned over fine, no clicks. No obvious weakness. I still need to do a couple hour ride when the weather clears up. See how it does when its hot.
If I understand right, the biggest problem with a non charging bike is that it doesn't just use up the battery for starting but also the spark plug firing drains the battery too. Because if it was just the starter, you could start your bike, run it for the day and put the trickle charger on it for a night or 2 when you park it and it should be fine. But that does not work. I found that out the hard way. Your battery wont survive.
If I understand right, the biggest problem with a non charging bike is that it doesn't just use up the battery for starting but also the spark plug firing drains the battery too. Because if it was just the starter, you could start your bike, run it for the day and put the trickle charger on it for a night or 2 when you park it and it should be fine. But that does not work. I found that out the hard way. Your battery wont survive.
Left side case cover to the left of the starter gear coverDo you know where the main ground on these things are? That I should check
I just went and looked. And yeah, that's it staring me in the face.Left side case cover to the left of the starter gear cover
Not an ideal place for a ground in my estimation. Just a bolt into casing. What if the threads get a bit milky. Or a dab of silicone got on the threads during assembly. It is probably fine though. The crimp looks as good as new. I guess I'll pull it out and just make sure.
yep wouldn’t hurt to clean it upI just went and looked. And yeah, that's it staring me in the face.
Not an ideal place for a ground in my estimation. Just a bolt into casing. What if the threads get a bit milky. Or a dab of silicone got on the threads during assembly. It is probably fine though. The crimp looks as good as new. I guess I'll pull it out and just make sure.
I cleaned up the ground.
I fired it up again today. It buzzed. So I checked the stator output again and it was completely dead. So wtf goes wrong with these stators ? Order a whole unit ?
I fired it up again today. It buzzed. So I checked the stator output again and it was completely dead. So wtf goes wrong with these stators ? Order a whole unit ?
Testing the ohms with the analog multimeter and the needle maxes out. So that is a direct short. Right? wtf causes a direct short ?
F**k is this annoying. The output on the stator was fine the other day when I tested it. Maybe the harness has a break and it just happened to be holding when i tested it then
Step back and have a beer, this stuff frustrates me too tracking through it.
Now the stator is reading zero ohms. But maybe I fried the meter. First it was wrapping the gauge. Now the needle doesnt move
Are you measuring and talking about volts or ohms in your last two posts?
VoltsAre you measuring and talking about volts or ohms in your last two posts?
I just returned that piece of scrap meter. Got a digital one now
I’m not a stator expert. If I read your posts correctly the post showing the meter when the stator is plugged back in shows a higher voltage that the picture of when the stator was unplugged (which should have been battery voltage). That would make me think that the stator is producing voltage to charge the battery.Volts
I just returned that piece of scrap meter. Got a digital one now
Analog meters their place in electronics diagnostics, I would have kept it as both analog and digital is nice to have.
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