You are reading it correctly. I came to the same conclusion.I’m not a stator expert. If I read your posts correctly the post showing the meter when the stator is plugged back in shows a higher voltage that the picture of when the stator was unplugged (which should have been battery voltage). That would make me think that the stator is producing voltage to charge the battery.
Analog meters their place in electronics diagnostics, I would have kept it as both analog and digital is nice to have.
Among other readings my digital meter has separate settings for AC voltage, DC voltage, and ohms. If you don’t have it set to what you are trying to measure it will not give you accurate readings. If you want post a picture of the meter and what you are trying to measure someone will make sure your headed in the right direction.You are reading it correctly. I came to the same conclusion.
And yeah. That is why I got the analog one. My new digital one is making even less sense. It is counting down to zero volts on my trucks perfectly good and charged battery. So now I am Youtubing how to do the most basic function on a digital multimeter.
I really have to call it a day. And stop beating my motherf**king head against a wall.
Will do thanks. FYI the starter is new. As is the solenoid. And it is charging good. Stator is good , reg/rectifire is newThis sounds like a electric short somewhere. Either a break inside the wiring or bad connection. Crimping it down won't fix it. Try using a jumper wire from the starter to the battery when it's buzzing and see if it cranks over the engine. If it does then it's something in the wiring. If not then replace the starter. Also test the ohms of the ground locations to the battery negative post to see if you have resistance there. You need to basically just start testing each component when dealing with electrical issues. Start with the basics and keep going. It's stressful at first but once you get the hang of it it goes fairly quick.
You are starting to isolate the problem. What changes in the circuit when the solenoid is activated?The volt meter reads 12.75 volts at the positive post of the solenoid all the time. When I hit the start button , only 5 volts is getting to the other side of the solenoid post.
Yeah. it wasn't a good idea at the time but I was desperate. I am not doing that anymore and haven't subjected any of the new parts to it.Is the car battery in the car with it running when you try to jump start the quad? Be careful because car alternators are much more powerful and can fry your electrical on the quad.
Car batteries have a lot more amps than ATV batteries. The car battery is able to shove more amps through wires that have resistance. Had a old Chevy pickup that had weird electrical gremlins that were similar. The grounds were junk because of the guy that "restored" it didn't understand electrical or mechanical and there was corrosion through a lot of the wires. I replaced everything and now it runs better than any new vehicle even in extreme cold. Sometimes you'll have a wire with corrosion or break inside that you don't see and it'll cause a lot of issues. Have you replaced both your battery cables yet?
