Raptor Forum banner

Raptor relay buzzing & eating batteries, Update: Still does it

852 Views 64 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  QuadManiac
Most of us will know by now the sound they make with a weak battery. Click click click.

I was busy with my previous career so I couldn't put my mind to it. So I just started replacing parts. First I did the solenoid/relay under the seat. That's where it sounds like the noise is coming from. Nope. Then I just thought it had to be a worn starter that was drawing too much out of the battery. Its a 2001 with original starter so that must be it right? No.

Then I finally had some time to think about this. I bought a new battery again. I thought maybe the valves are way out of adjustment and making it start hard and run bad. And it should be done anyway. So i tore it apart and adjusted the valves. The exhausts were way too loose. I really thought it was part of the problem but no. Changed nothing.

The I watched some diagnostic videos. I figured out it probably isn't charging. I went out and bought a cheap analog multimeter. I discovered that the volts with the new battery disconnected were the same as when the battery was in the bike and running. So aha. It ain't charging.

I unplugged the stator and tested it with the multimeter with the bike running

Now this test showed that the stator was definitely working. But maybe a tad weak. But I am not used to this multimeter. So its probably fine. Then I tested the output coming out of the rectifier/regulator. And it read zero. Zilch. Nothing

So I thought I finally solved it. Ordered a new rectifier/regulator. Put it on. I go to start it. I noticed it click a couple times but then it fired up. I didn't think much of that because maybe the battery was a bit drained (even though I have been trickle charging it all night and day)

I put the multimeter back on the battery with the bike running and it is showing that its charging. Its hard to tell with the analog multimeter but the needle is showing 2 values higher when the bike is running. So say 12 volts when off and 13-14 volts with the bike running at idle. So... its charging right ?

Well it is still clicking before it starts. A couple clicks then the starter kicks in and then it starts. And it doesn't turn over very convincingly. So its doing the same thing still. I bet when the bike is hot, I wont be able to restart it at all. It will just click. That is what it always did. So it is not fixed.

Thoughts ?
See less See more
61 - 65 of 65 Posts
With the starter reinstalled turning over the engine with the plug wire off , it is reading a more consistent 10.46 to 10.60 volts from the starter post. And it sounded a like it was turning over a fair bit faster.

Doing this test before , the volts were oscilating noticably between 9.45 and 10.39.
With everything back together, it started better than I've ever heard it start in the last 5+ years. Just instant. So that is a good sign. But I wont know the real answer until it stops raining again and I can take it out.
Well I ran the quad today. I am 200 pounds. I ran it up a pretty steep mountain on a 20 degree day. Full power usage. So it is as hot as it will get. I shut it off and went to restart. No clicking. It turned the bike over and fired up. I did it 3 times. No click or buzz any of the times. So that is good. What isn't great is that it doesn't turn over as convincingly as I wanted. But I guess we will call it fixed.

Here is the sound of the hot start First hot start There is some train noise in the backround. I also checked the volts when running. 14+ And with it off, 13 volts. So that part seems to be 100%.

I think what happened was I had a bad rectifier. So it wasn't charging. But I also had a bad starter. But my new starter was also defective. So when I changed the rectifier, it didnt fix it. It is curious that the ad for these starters is removed from Amazon. So maybe it was a bad batch. But after i gave the starter some lubrication, it worked.
I clicked again this morning on cold. Oh well. I just sold the bike. I told the buyer that it kinda does the clicking sometimes on start.

I am admitting defeat.
This is getting hard to follow. What are your voltage readings at point A, B, C, and D with the big hot wire disconnected from the starter (and insulated) with the starter button pressed? The contact side of the relay will have the two larger wires. The coil side will have the two smaller wires. View attachment 144815
This drawing is incorrect - the left side of coil (as drawn here to ground) connects to the CDI signal that becomes 12V when CDI decides it's okay to start (neutral switch or clutch switch grounded). The starter button then pulls the other side of the coil to ground when pressed.

May not make much difference in this thread, but other's that see it may be misled.

Backspin, sorry you gave up.
61 - 65 of 65 Posts