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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know there's other similar threads and I've read thru them and tried a few thhings from them, but wanted to explain my specific issue.

I bought an '02 Raptor 660R about a month ago. It had sat for 2-3 years, never really ridden and maybe started up here and there. I looked at it, had obvious running issues without the choke on but I did get to drive it and it had good power, the reverse worked & everything. So I bought it figuring just replace the old gas, spark plug & possibly clean the carbs.

I replaced the old gas a few weeks ago, and then it'd die & sputter when I drove it down the road. So over this past week, I cleaned the carbs (took all removable jets out & used carb cleaner & air to clean them out), also cleaned the floats and around them (nothing was really that dirty or anything, looked pretty clean). I didn't clean in the actual carb (where it opens & closes), because was worried about getting carb cleaner on the rubber. Anyways, also replaced the spark plug (old spark plug was definitely bad) AND disconnected the Parking brake sensor (green & yellow wire - white connector). Still runs the same . It will idle for a little bit & then die. I didn't take all the rubber parts out & soak in cleaner overnight - could that make that much of a difference from what I've already done?

I don't know anything about the jet sizes or anything like that, or much with engines at that matter, I just try to save myself $ & shops charge way too much anyways. What else can I do? Someone said another post that there's a wire underneath the sprocket that he tightened and it ran just fine after that, but what wire would that be? Any help with would be greatly appreciated - thanks!
 

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Can't just blow out the pilot jets - they need to be rodded out with copper strands from speaker wire, or equiv. Yes, all passages must be cleaned. Unless you dismantle and clean everything it's just a 'wipe down', not a cleaning. Be ready to replace some o-rings - specifically in the float valve seats - once they're disturbed they like to start leaking.
 

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I know there's other similar threads and I've read thru them and tried a few thhings from them, but wanted to explain my specific issue.

I bought an '02 Raptor 660R about a month ago. It had sat for 2-3 years, never really ridden and maybe started up here and there. I looked at it, had obvious running issues without the choke on but I did get to drive it and it had good power, the reverse worked & everything. So I bought it figuring just replace the old gas, spark plug & possibly clean the carbs.

I replaced the old gas a few weeks ago, and then it'd die & sputter when I drove it down the road. So over this past week, I cleaned the carbs (took all removable jets out & used carb cleaner & air to clean them out), also cleaned the floats and around them (nothing was really that dirty or anything, looked pretty clean). I didn't clean in the actual carb (where it opens & closes), because was worried about getting carb cleaner on the rubber. Anyways, also replaced the spark plug (old spark plug was definitely bad) AND disconnected the Parking brake sensor (green & yellow wire - white connector). Still runs the same . It will idle for a little bit & then die. I didn't take all the rubber parts out & soak in cleaner overnight - could that make that much of a difference from what I've already done?

I don't know anything about the jet sizes or anything like that, or much with engines at that matter, I just try to save myself $ & shops charge way too much anyways. What else can I do? Someone said another post that there's a wire underneath the sprocket that he tightened and it ran just fine after that, but what wire would that be? Any help with would be greatly appreciated - thanks!
You are talking of the green and white wire below the sprocket, if this has a bad connection, it will turn on the reverse rev limiter, BUT the bike will idle perfectly and run perfect until it hits the RPM governed by the rev limiter.

Most likley you problems stems with dirty pilot jets and or dirty fuel passages at the fuel screws.......
Check the size of the pilots and if they are not #25s, install them, you should be using that particular size, they came stock with the 22.5s........
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Can't just blow out the pilot jets - they need to be rodded out with copper strands from speaker wire, or equiv. Yes, all passages must be cleaned. Unless you dismantle and clean everything it's just a 'wipe down', not a cleaning. Be ready to replace some o-rings - specifically in the float valve seats - once they're disturbed they like to start leaking.
is it just the rubber piece on the top of each carb and the rubber inside the carb itself in each one? Are they easy to remove and/or is there a trick to doing them? Also, after I had used the air compressor on the jets, I checked that I could see thru them. Is it possible that since I didn't do a "thorough" cleaning, they can still be dirty even though I can see thru them?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are talking of the green and white wire below the sprocket, if this has a bad connection, it will turn on the reverse rev limiter, BUT the bike will idle perfectly and run perfect until it hits the RPM governed by the rev limiter.

Most likley you problems stems with dirty pilot jets and or dirty fuel passages at the fuel screws.......
Check the size of the pilots and if they are not #25s, install them, you should be using that particular size, they came stock with the 22.5s........
So doesn't sound the reverse rev limiter is my problem then...

How do I check the size of them - does it say on them? Are the stock ones known for having issues or what's the reason to upgrade to #25s?

Thanks for the help!
 

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The stock jets are (main) 140L, 145R. Stock pilot jets are 22.5. They are marked with these numbers around the flat face with the screw slot. To meet EPA specs, Yammi went lean on the pilot jets, the 22.5's are marginally too lean even for a stock bike. Increasing to 25's improves idle, throttle response and decelleration response.

The pilots are especially prone to plugging and even if you can see some light thru they can still be partially plugged - I had exactly this issue last weekend - popping badly and terrible idle on one of my 400ex's. Pilot jet was half plugged up... tiny shaft of light coming thru... after cleaning, a nice solid shaft of light, and perfect running.
 

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So doesn't sound the reverse rev limiter is my problem then...

How do I check the size of them - does it say on them? Are the stock ones known for having issues or what's the reason to upgrade to #25s?

Thanks for the help!
There is a number on the pilots, use the 25s, 22.5 are too lean........:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quadmaniac - thanks for the info. You said to use speaker wire, i just spray some carb cleaner on them and push them thru the jets? Also, will it be an issue removing those rubber pieces, and/or do i still need to let it soak in carb cleaner overnight?

Willykiller - thanks!

I will take the carbs off again and reclean them and post the outcome. Hopefully all good!
 

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I've always removed all rubber components, including o-rings, and sprayed thru every passage, looking for it to come out somewhere else (it must). I don't soak, just end up using about 1 can of spray per carb.

SPray cleaner thru the jets, then follow with copper strand, spray some more, copper some more, spray, then blow out with air - goal: to see a nice round shaft of light coming thru the pilot jet.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I broke the little plastic thing that screws the choke into the carb. I'm trying to get it replaced as we speak, but my question is with the choke out of the carb, would this cause it any problems with starting and/or running?

Note: I just cleaned the carb again, this time way more thorough (fuel screws, soaked, etc.). Put it back on again, still runs like crap (only tried for about 10 min. last night but I couldn't even get it started, just kept cranking, and got it to try and turn over once or twice) - Carb was empty so gonna try again tonight after more gas gets in it.
 

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I broke the little plastic thing that screws the choke into the carb. I'm trying to get it replaced as we speak, but my question is with the choke out of the carb, would this cause it any problems with starting and/or running?

Note: I just cleaned the carb again, this time way more thorough (fuel screws, soaked, etc.). Put it back on again, still runs like crap (only tried for about 10 min. last night but I couldn't even get it started, just kept cranking, and got it to try and turn over once or twice) - Carb was empty so gonna try again tonight after more gas gets in it.
Yes it will cause a problem if the plunger is not in properly and it is not sealed properly...........
And iof there is no fuel in the carbs, it will never start, make sure that the fuel pet cock filter isnt plugged, it is located in the tank............
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes it will cause a problem if the plunger is not in properly and it is not sealed properly...........
And iof there is no fuel in the carbs, it will never start, make sure that the fuel pet cock filter isnt plugged, it is located in the tank............
willykiller - thanks. and i worded that sentence wrong, i meant basically like i probably didn't wait long enough for the carb to get enough gas (i could smell gas), but it's irrelevant since the choke is out. $21 + 1 week and starter kit will be here.

The shop also recommended I go with 130 main jets because of the altitude here in Denver. My thing is the guy who owned before had stock jets, and he didn't have problems riding it here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok, installed the new starter set (screws into the choke) and I STILL have the same problem. this is getting ridiculous. What else can it be??? I've already unplugged the parking brake sensor and it made no difference. I've cleaned the carbs twice now (first time not much but 2nd time just about cleaned everything and soaked it, plus new o rings on main jets & fuel screws). only thing i havent done is check the pet cock filter (but i smell plenty of gas when trying to start???).. HELP!!!
 

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Does your reverse light work, when in reverse?

Have you grounded the green/white wire that plugs into the reverse switch down by the output sprocket - this, if not grounded will turn on the reverse RPM limiter... if switch or connection is bad, limiter will be on. IF reverse light works normally, this is not likely the problem, unless you see the reverse light also flickering when you ride and have the sputtering issues. If reverse light isn't working, then ground the wire to eliminate this limiter as a possibility.

Next, check spark quality and compression - if carbs are truly clean, properly working and correctly jetted, perhaps it's one of the other necessary items for good combustion.

Your symptoms led directly to dirty carbs, but if that's not it, we really don't have any history on this bike - it could be anything. More info and more details on the symptoms are probably necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Does your reverse light work, when in reverse?

Have you grounded the green/white wire that plugs into the reverse switch down by the output sprocket - this, if not grounded will turn on the reverse RPM limiter... if switch or connection is bad, limiter will be on. IF reverse light works normally, this is not likely the problem, unless you see the reverse light also flickering when you ride and have the sputtering issues. If reverse light isn't working, then ground the wire to eliminate this limiter as a possibility.

Next, check spark quality and compression - if carbs are truly clean, properly working and correctly jetted, perhaps it's one of the other necessary items for good combustion.

Your symptoms led directly to dirty carbs, but if that's not it, we really don't have any history on this bike - it could be anything. More info and more details on the symptoms are probably necessary.
I have not checked the reverse switch. When i test drove the quad, it ran ok, got good speed, shifted fine and reverse worked. ive noticed since i got it that once in awhile the reverse light comes on and its kind of weird, like it comes on then turns off but comes on again but i turn off the quad, restart and it'd stop (when it would keep running - prior to carb cleaning). with that being said, why would've it worked and run decent when i test drove it if the reverse switch is bad? where is the output sprocket, maybe i can just search google?

i've replaced the spark plug (old one looked bad). do i check the compression just like on a car? what are the necessary steps?

appreciate the help man. getting to the point where just let a shop check it for a few hundred bucks....
 

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Okay, the reverse switch connection or switch is definitely causing issues, intermittent at least.

FInd the reverse switch wire and connect it directly to ground, see if your problems go away, then report back.

-the output sprocket is the front sprocket with the chain on it. switch and green/white wire/plug is below and in front of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay, the reverse switch connection or switch is definitely causing issues, intermittent at least.

FInd the reverse switch wire and connect it directly to ground, see if your problems go away, then report back.

-the output sprocket is the front sprocket with the chain on it. switch and green/white wire/plug is below and in front of it.
You are awesome for the detailed help... anyways, im just curious because i like to know but why would've it ran "ok" when i test drove it if that switch is bad? it's like, i replaced the old gas with new premium gas, runs worse... then clean the carbs, runs worse....

i will try what you said and report back.
 

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You are awesome for the detailed help... anyways, im just curious because i like to know but why would've it ran "ok" when i test drove it if that switch is bad? it's like, i replaced the old gas with new premium gas, runs worse... then clean the carbs, runs worse....

i will try what you said and report back.
Most likely it's just the slip on connector between the wire and switch that is dirty, corroded or loose - very common. If it breaks connection with the switch, intermittently due to vibration, the engine will briefly fall flat on its face and the reverse light will flicker dimly and randomly.

Ground it (the green/white wire), at least temporarily, to eliminate the possibility and then we can go on to the next issue, if any exists.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Most likely it's just the slip on connector between the wire and switch that is dirty, corroded or loose - very common. If it breaks connection with the switch, intermittently due to vibration, the engine will briefly fall flat on its face and the reverse light will flicker dimly and randomly.

Ground it (the green/white wire), at least temporarily, to eliminate the possibility and then we can go on to the next issue, if any exists.
Update: We've adjusted the carbs some more.

1. Someone told me stock settings on the fuel screws were 1 1/2 turns out from bottom position so I did that

2. We played with the synchronization screw on the outside of the carbs and that helped a lot.

3. We checked the reverse limitor connector and it was dirty on the inside (oil from the chain probably) so I cleaned that up a little bit, but it didn't make a difference when running. The reverse light didn't come on for awhile but when I rev it up high it starts blinking, so I will probably ground or disconnect going forward like you said.

Basically, it's running WAY better since I adjusted the fuel screws & played with the synchronization. It was running at like 40% before and I'd say closer to 85% now. It still sounds like it's not perfect and needs more fine tuning and randomly it may just die after idling for 5 min. (just dies, doesn't sputter or anything but not everytime). I took it for a test run and it ran pretty damn good.

Quadmaniac - maybe a phone # to text each other or e-mail to assist if you're willing? no worries if you don't want to. I really appreciate the help, it's almost ready for camping time!
 

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A fixed rate blinking of the reverse light is normal when you've been revving in neutral - the CDI thinks the idle RPM is too high and warns you about it.

Some bikes just like to die occasionally while idling - raising idle speed a bit can help. One of my 400ex's is that way... idle along for a few minutes just fine, then 'hiccup' and dead. I have never figured it out, nor have I put a lot of effort into determining, cause I have no reason to WANT it to idle for more than a few seconds before I should be off riding, anyway.

Set the sync screw so both butterflies close at the same time, that should do it.

1.5 turns out is stock, but not likely the best... usually too lean and the cause of hesitation when coming on to throttle. Turn out 1/4 turn at a time till you're happy with response.

And sorry, but no to the phone number. Leaving it as a forum allows me to respond to the issues in which I have a valid contribution, at MY leisure... If the amount of unsolicited PM's I recieve here is any indicator, if I made my phone number public i'd never get any peace.
 
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