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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys... I currently have a Wolverine 350 and I'm pretty happy with it. The 4x4 comes in handy from time to time. I am considering buying a Raptor 700. However I ride in the woods a lot. We have lots of stumps and fallen trees to ride over. Also it can get pretty wet and muddy at times. Is the Raptor a good bike for this type of riding and if so, should I get different tires for it. I would guess some ITP Mudlites would be helpful. I should also get a complete skidplate set as well.? The other consideration for me is low matenience. I do not like to spend tons of time working on my bikes. I'm a "get on it and go" kind of guy. Does the Raptor sound right for me?

Thanks!
Birdog
 

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i ride in the mountains all the time and never have any trouble. the mud lites are next on my list aswell. skids are a must have for sure. tree stumps a logs are a little work but duable. the 700 is the only way to go. :thumbsup:
 

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I just went riding today in some awesome trails, I got high centered once, nothing some 22s wont fix. skid plates are a must, and mud took me a hour and a half this time to clean up
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your help. All of my other bikes have always been shaft driven. Any special care that I should give to the chain to keep it going? Also, any recomendations on the best (and least expensive) skid plates for the 700? And for the guy that had a Wolverine (type36) - What were you able to do on your Wolverine that you can not do on your Raptor. I would guess you have to miss the 4x4 function some of the time.??
 

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ive only gotten my bike stuck a couple times. once in a river, slipped on rocks and burried myself. the other time it was high centered. they are awesome bikes in the mud, on the dunes, anywhere. i havent seen or ridden a better bike for every terrain.

this is also with my stock tires. if you do start getting stuck, throw it in reverse. get a small run at it, starting in second. hammer down and ive gotten out of everything.

skids are going to vary person to person. there is armadillo, which is one of the cheaper ones. ive heard lots of good reviews of them. then there are some other brands, like gytr, pro armor, ect, cost a little more but some are better looking/have drain holes/countersunk bolts.

just make sure you get a 3/16" thick chassis skid, and 1/4" thick swingarm skid. i havent purchased one yet myself, but its next..
 

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I got the GYTR because I could have them the same day and I don't like to wait. I don't really care about looks, but my wife really likes the way the GYTR looks. I have heard good things about the armadillo skids.
 

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Yep I think everyone has it covered, 22" tires, full skids, and momentum is your friend. ;) I've found the best fix for ground clearance is to hit any kind of rut or bog at warp speed, she'll sail right through and the 4x4 guys give you a bewildered look when they see that you made it through something that they had to engage the diff lock for. :lol: Log crossings are simple once you get used to them, but full skids are an absolute must. Approach the log at a decent speed, pop the front end up just before the log and momentum will drag the bike over. Looks pretty cool too. :grin_nod:
 

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Look around on the swing arm skid which is going to take alot of abuse and make sure you get a really thick one they vary from 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Also on the belly skids see how the different ones bolt on, you dont want to be ripping bolt heads off
 

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birdog said:
The GYTR comes with skid plates? I thought the difference was the shocks. ? . Is it really worth the extra $.
GYTR Edition features YFZ450 style four-way adjustable piggyback front shocks, with separate high- and low-speed compression adjustment in addition to rebound and spring preload adjustments. GYTR graphics, GYTR front grab bar and GYTR heel guards mean this one is ready to get `er done.
Those shocks come on the SE as well and no you don't get skids on the GYTR.

I think it really comes down to what color you want. You get more for your money with the GYTR then you do the SE, but the SE looks sick IMO. All you really get over the SE is heel guards, bumper, and graphics, but at only about $100 that is quite a bit. In short if you are going to get serious about suspension and don't care about looks you won't be using those shocks anyway so just get a regular one and save yourself 500-600 dollars for upgrades. If you’re not picky about suspension and are going to buy the heel guard, bumper, and graphics anyway then get the GYTR. If you are all about looks and like the SE then get the SE, but again color is all personal preference.

There is some joking about what color is faster, but to settle it once and for all dollar per HP the none SE and none GYTR bikes are faster :p

I am not all about being fastest or looking pretty, so I just got the regular raptor and put some skids on there to protect it. If you look around you will see that the engine is pretty vulnerable to getting cracked on rocks, which is what prompted me to do skids. Most swing arm skids are at least 1/4" thick. If you want the most protection then get the stainless steel. I likely will do the 3 mods with LTE's, but only because I feel my bike runs a bit lean stock and if I am going to buy a controller to fix that I might as well use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All right... it's done... I'll get the raptor this week. I'll get the regular raptor. Have you guys been able to get any deals when you bought yours or should I expect to pay what the dealer has it listed for? Also I want to order the skid plates now. Should I get them from the dealer or will I save big $ if I buy them online?
 

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You should not expect to pay sticker, but don't expect to get a bunch off the sticker. The dealers know they will sell the Raptors, so they don't deal to much on them. I got mine for 6400 b4 taxes and registration.

You should be able to get a good deal on the skids when you purchase your bike if you are getting GYTR. Otherwise you can usually save some money online.
 

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I have a raptor 700 also and do a lot of trail riding. The most improtant thing to get is FULL SKID PLATES.. That was the best investment I have done. I havnt gotten stuck yet but have ended up balancing on rocks and tree stumps many times. I was also thinking about changing the gearing. First gear is too slow but 2nd can be a little too fast on the tight trails. All and All I havnt had too much trouble. But the 4X4 are always better when it comes to that type of riding
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well guys... I talked to a dealer today and he said that for my type of riding, I should ge the Kawasaki KFX 700. (He sells both Yamahas and kawasakis). He said the shaft drive will make it less likely to need work on the trail with the rough ridding we do. I just can't stand the thought of driving an automatic.!. Any thoughts? I did not get either yet. Have any of you owned or ridden the KFX 700? If so, how does it compair with the Raptor? I'm all about low maintance but the Raptor still seems like the bike for me.
 

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birdog said:
Well guys... I talked to a dealer today and he said that for my type of riding, I should ge the Kawasaki KFX 700. (He sells both Yamahas and kawasakis). He said the shaft drive will make it less likely to need work on the trail with the rough ridding we do. I just can't stand the thought of driving an automatic.!. Any thoughts? I did not get either yet. Have any of you owned or ridden the KFX 700? If so, how does it compair with the Raptor? I'm all about low maintance but the Raptor still seems like the bike for me.
That Kawi weighs almost as much as a small car!!!! What maintenance are you talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've never had a "sport" bike so I'm not sure. I think he was talking about keeping the chain lubbed up and replacing the sprocket. I guess it's more possible for the chain to break or get tied up on something than a shaft. Have you ever ridden a KFX 700? Does it ride as heavy as it looks like it would?
 

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birdog said:
I've never had a "sport" bike so I'm not sure. I think he was talking about keeping the chain lubbed up and replacing the sprocket. I guess it's more possible for the chain to break or get tied up on something than a shaft. Have you ever ridden a KFX 700? Does it ride as heavy as it looks like it would?
Yes I have ridden one, and they are tanks. You couldnt pay me enough to buy one for several reasons.... weight, size, automatic, resale value.... and on and on. I tell you what maint is just part of this whole deal, wether it be a Rappy or anything else, but it really isnt a problem and not a weekly kind of thing. One automatic transmission failure and its gonna cost you more than any standard maint or a lifetime of chain and sprocket replacements!!!! Good luck, we are here for ya!!! :thumbsup:
 

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my father in law has the kfx 700 it dose not come close to the rappy. i can beat it in any aspect. the only thing thats nice is the v twin sounds good with the dual hmf pipes. do not go with it u will be very mad at your self later. chain care is not that hard.
 
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