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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys i recently purchased a 02 Raptor 660, which i found out because of the vin# from what i read the 10th number is the year and it showed a 2, person i bought it from listed it as 06. i noticed when i started looking for parts that 660 stopped in 05 i believe.

anyway i bought it cheap because the crank broke through the crankcase. i learned how to shift gears on one of these when i was younger, which lead to my motorcycle addiction i have now. (06 cbr 1000)

i've watched a couple videos on the rebuild since i'm pretty mechanical and didnt seem like it would be to hard to get this bad boy up and running. First issue i noticed was they stopped producing the crankcases for these badboys which sucks.

i want to make sure i'm going in the right direction before i pull the trigger and buy the parts to get it running again. so far i've found this combo as what i think is a good deal since all the crankcases that i keep finding say the chain guard is broken on them. So i've been a little wary of buying the ones i've seen on ebay.

Rebuild Kit

My way of thinking at the moment was, since the current case is obviously broken, take this kit and piece the rest of it back together with what i have on the broken motor right now. But i want to piece this back together right so the bike last for years to come. So any suggestions of parts to upgrade or buy while its open please let me know it would be greatly appreciated.

also is their a way to avoid it cracking the case how it did, cause it literally split it straight up the middle of both sides of the cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Pics of the motor, damage, and unplugged yellow connector which I’m sure is for temp since it’s near radiator so I guess I gotta figure that out too.
 

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Master of the Electron
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You have any questions? Ask Away.

The color and stripe of the wire is important, not the connector. What are they?

Attached is the wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
As long as cylinder head is in good shape and I use this kit. What direction should I go with redoing it springs etc??

I plan on keeping this for a while so I wanna make a solid build so while I have the case split are their any must repairs or upgrades to do for stability reliability?? Or anything in general that needs to be changed or fixed that are common issues or advice that you wish you had before you started building it.

change thread namein case I need more help during install. Will start pulling out engine in next day or two see damage of old internals.
 

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Good luck on the rebuild, this forum helped me a lot. This is the first time tearing into an Atv motor but I’m just about finished with my Raptor..need a chain and sprockets and some random parts and it’s ready to ride. :)
 

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Master of the Electron
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Great experience for your son... ask and we'll try to answer. Good luck!
 

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As long as cylinder head is in good shape and I use this kit. What direction should I go with redoing it springs etc??

I plan on keeping this for a while so I wanna make a solid build so while I have the case split are their any must repairs or upgrades to do for stability reliability?? Or anything in general that needs to be changed or fixed that are common issues or advice that you wish you had before you started building it.

change thread namein case I need more help during install. Will start pulling out engine in next day or two see damage of old internals.
Since it's apart, you can get rid of the top speed limiter.
With the clutch cover off, towards the of rear of the case, a wire harness connects to a sensor above a gear with square teeth.
That sensor is counting the teeth and rpm of that gear. Once it says it's too fast, it pulls timing, limiting the top speed. Unplugging it will not work.
You need to grind most of the teeth off that gear, leave 4, evenly spaced.
That way it will trick the sensor into thinking that gear is turning very slowly, as there are now only a fraction of the original number of teeth for it to count, and you'll in turn gain a few more mph on top end.
I would also do the reverse limiter removal, but that is just wiring, and not inside the engine.
Also, adjust the valves while you're at it. They're easy, the old style Allen head set screw and lock nut.
I also post in all the 660 threads, search and do the "clear tube method" for adjusting both carburetor floats.
It's been around the forum for years, and I'm about to do it on a 4th 660.
It makes a noticeable difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I definitely appreciate the help guys. As far as the head, should I go ahead and get new springs and valves since I’m replacing the bottom end? What head kit would be suitable for the 686 bore kit... want It to be more reliable than anything.

What I rebuild carbs, they said it was running before it popped the motor. I Detached it from tubes and pulled it to the side for now didn’t wanna mess with the cables etc attaches.

also I'm reading on one way starter bearing, is this while I have the cases open?? purpose of changing?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here’s what I pulled out today. One of the rocker nuts was completely off. What a pain in the ass all those Allen bolts are, any alternatives when I go to put back together.

Advice on this head and the rocker would be greatly appreciated...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
on the good ole flywheel. Decided to whip out the old probably hasn’t been touched in 15 yrs engine stand. Was annoying me moving around taking the hard stuff off. Going to ace to find bolts to fit it to the mount. And continue another day. Slowly but surely.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cracked the case today. And took out the tranny. How my gears look?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Can someone chime in on this point. As far as the tranny, I think it looks good. The clutch basket plastic gear is obvious needs to be replaced. Only thing cheaper I have found is the steel gear to replace it that needs to be pressed in.

and than the Cylinder head. Do I just send this to get rebuilt or order new valves and a new cam while I have it open?? This is really were I’m more stumped....

I want it reliable To take care of for a couple years and I ride more motorcycle pretty hard when I get it so just don’t want to waste money where I don’t need too.
 

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The rocker cover and head are toast. How did they get all busted up?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Previous owner blew the counter balance through the cases. Have the whole bottom end ordered. Trying to figure out what to do with the head. Anything rebuildable??
 

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What's wrong with the head you have?
Is it not rebuildable?
Cam bearing surface worn out?(I can't tell from the pictures as they aren't clear enough)
If not, it should just be a valve job.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the covers aren’t matching. Previous broke that little bolt that’s hidden in the cover so that little bottom piece was jb welded on to hold it in place. From what I’ve been told the cam has possibility of moving around due to the numbers not matching. Don’t feel any grooves were the cam goes, but their are scrape marks on timing chain side. As well as one of the rockers was missing a bolt.
 

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the covers aren’t matching. Previous broke that little bolt that’s hidden in the cover so that little bottom piece was jb welded on to hold it in place. From what I’ve been told the cam has possibility of moving around due to the numbers not matching. Don’t feel any grooves were the cam goes, but their are scrape marks on timing chain side. As well as one of the rockers was missing a bolt.
Gotcha
I'de measure the cam bearing surfaces and see if they are in spec.
You can use a spring loaded, locking bore gage like this to measure it, and rotate it to measure at multiple points.
A machine shop could do that for you.
This is a bore gage in a rod, but the principle is the same.
After you lock the gage, then remove it and measure the gage with a micrometer.

Also, does anyone make inserts/ bushings for 660 cam mounting points?
If so, that would be cheaper than a new $700 head.
 

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