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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Well that’s kinda where we are at and discussing. Have a friend that mentioned exactly the same thing micrometer as he and his dad built a couple bikes when he was growing up. But as i researched about the numbers not matching and discussed with his dad. Came to the conclusion that it might be better to get another head than repair this one. Something about where the cam lays on, It’s hard to match with a different cover as It wouldnt hold the cam in place correctly. On top of everything I mentioned, also found helicoils on the two bolt holes that come up from the cylinder to hold the head. Having him take it to the machine shop anyway to see what they suggest.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
So the guys looked at the head said I can reuse it again. That looking at the Head gasket marks from the previous fitting it sealed really good doesn’t need to be resurfaced. The valves were taken apart, they were seated good as well and checked. He was able to weld the piece that everyone breaks on the cover. I’ll post up pics of the head when I get it back. Everything else should be here by next week to start assembly

oh and have to do a time sert on one of the two holes for the screw that comes up from under.

anyone know what time sert to order so it matches the screws??
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Time sert is ordered. Most of the parts coming in this week. Just little things here and their. Anything important to look out for during rebuild? Or to do while engine is open for extra safety/protection??

also is it two different loctite that you use for assembly or one? Which ones or one
 

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Don't use permanent loctite.
Use anti-sieze on any and every faster that thread locker is not required on.
Use non synthetic/dino engine oil on the cylinder wall(rings break in better with dino oil that allows more friction than synthetic oil) and use dino oil for engine break in.
Assembly lube all over the cams.
Adjust the valves after assembly.
If the clutch cover is off, grind all but 4 teeth(evenly spaced) off of the speed limiter gear(it has square teeth that a sensor counts, and the sensor is on the end of the wires that go into the top rear of the clutch cover).
With less teeth on the gear, the sensor will never count enough teeth at max rpm at top speed to pull/retard timing, which prevents the engine from going any faster.
Simple trick to gain a few rpm and therefore mph at top speed.
 

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The 52t that goes with the one way bearing.

The last time I bought loctite locally it was a blue bottle I use it for my motorcycle shifter threads.
I would definately replace the starter bearing during a rebuild, as they are a common failure point, and since you already have it anyway.

The threadlocker bottle will say if it's medium or permanent too.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Loctite comes in several different thread locking strengths - identified by the actual liquid color. Red is high strength, blue is medium. For one-way to flywheel and flywheel to crank we recommend red.
 

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Master of the Electron
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IMO if coming undone is catastrophic I use red. Else, blue or nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So the times you tell yourself to just wait and you don’t. Sooo I bought the steel gear to replace the plastic one on the clutch basket before removing the gear on the basket. So went to press out the gear and the gear started splitting at the pivots.
Any replacement options for that gear? Or I have to buy a whole new oem clutch basket?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ended up finding an m14 or 16 Nut that fit inside the pit posse at ace that fit the crank so was able to use the installer even though it says no 660. Used two hand wrenches as the bars And wala the crank went right in. Hopefully start the rest of the assembly soon. Gasket to the oil strainer is on back order, think I can get away with reusing if not brittle?
 

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Any suggestions for when I go to mate the cases together?? Probably going to attempt to assemble tomorrow
Let it sit for 24 hours for the rtv/yamabond to Fully cure Before adding oil.
Otherwise, it'll leak oil sooner than later.
And, use a torque wrench.
 
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