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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so i blew up the reverse gear in my 02 some how so i have had it apart all winter and just got it all put back together yesterday and in the bike. Now it wont start to the best of my knowledge i have it timed correctly. I set the cam in with the holes up and the dot on the side of the cam gear straight up and the I on the fly wheel in the peep hole on the case but when i crank her i get nothing. I have fuel, Spark and air by rights it should fire. so i squirted a touch of ether in it to see if that created any pop and nothing. I then noticed that when i place my hands over the intake boots i get i slight pressure coming out the intake? I dont think any wind should come out the intake. can anyone see where i went wrong?
Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Someone out there has to be able to tell me that i looked over something dumb or have an idea for me
 

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did you set the timing on the correct stroke? it'll be at tdc twice during a complete cycle
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the impute. I could not tell you if i have it in the correct stroke. can you tell me how to be sure that it is on the correct stroke?
 

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Master of the Electron
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When timing the cam it doesn't matter... this is what SETS the compression vs exhaust stroke... as long as you had the I and the 3 dots correct, your good on cam timing.

However, did you adjust your valves, and if so, did you verfiy that you were at TDC compression when you did so?

You also haven't mentioned whether you checked for spark. Have you?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. I have checked for spark and i have tons of it. I have not touched the valves simply because i figured since it ran when i pulled it out just fine it should run when put back in if all things are right. i will check the valves tomorrow. OK as for the I on the flywheel i assume im supposed to line it up in the peep hole with the notch in the threads? what does the H to the left of the I have to do with anything? As to the 3 dots i have had the cam in several positions today just trying to find something that worked but tomorrow i will make sure they are up.
Any other ideas?
Thank you.
 

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Thanks. I have checked for spark and i have tons of it. I have not touched the valves simply because i figured since it ran when i pulled it out just fine it should run when put back in if all things are right. i will check the valves tomorrow. OK as for the I on the flywheel i assume im supposed to line it up in the peep hole with the notch in the threads? what does the H to the left of the I have to do with anything? As to the 3 dots i have had the cam in several positions today just trying to find something that worked but tomorrow i will make sure they are up.
Any other ideas?
Thank you.
Cam timing is easy, just set the piston to the top of its stroke, and make sure the I mark is at TDC with the pointer in the inspection hole, set the cam timing as said previously so the 3 dots are up with the two bottom dots sitting at horizontal line of the valve cover head mating area.
Keep the cam chain tight on the front side of the engine, the tensioner can be installed after you install the valve cover and also the tensioner should be in the relaxed position, then install the spring and bolt.
Valve lash shouldnt change much when you install the head after disassembly but it should be checked, if it is tight, the engine may have difficulties in starting.
If the engine still fails to start, and you have spark, I have seen stator issues even when the engine has spark, their is a topic under my profile on this subject...............
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you to all of you who have chimed in you all have given me good ideas and things to check. I will check on these things tomorrow and report back with what happens. I dont care what anyone says the lot of you are very helpful and im glad to say i have never received this much help on any other forum unrelated to four wheelers i am a member of. Keep up the good work
Thanks
 

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Master of the Electron
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Thanks, and there aren't many forums like this out there... the quality of knowledge, the willingness of members to help and the lack of BS is very uncommon in most of the other forums I belong to, both quad related and unrelated.

Make sure that you are at TDC compression when you adjust the valves - put the I in the window and rock the crank back and forth over perhaps an 1/8 to a 1/4 rotation each way... if none of the valves move at all, you're there. If they do move, turn one full turn more (CCW) to the I again, and rock again - when they don't move, you're there.

The H shows ignition timing (degrees before TDC) for use with a timing light. With the light, if the left side lines up, you're at maximum advance, the right side minimum. You should see minimum at idle and it rise towards maximum as RPM's rise. This isn't adjustable (without installing an aftermarket, programmable CDI), it's just for reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well thanks again. I am very eager to get out in the garage tomorrow after my class final in the morning and see what i can make happen.
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well its been a day of emotional highs and lows today. Thanks to your guys advice i got it running. i had the cam in 90* off every way but right. so i let it idle for 20 minutes or so then let it cool and checked all the fluids everything was good to go so i took it out for a little ride ran through the gears great stopped went to neutral and then went to take off again and bang nothing. hit the starter and it tried to engage but couldn't do anything so i put it in 4th just to see of i could role start it and it stated to move and then went clunk like something was coming up against something else. i hope to hell its not my tranny again cause im not real fond of getting that deep in the thing again. Might have to write it off
 

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Master of the Electron
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Let's hope it's something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have come of the notion that there is no simple way to work on these goofy things lol its just as easy to pull the motor to do anything to it. I plan to pull the motor in two weeks after spring break and see what let loose. I hope to come back with something simple but knowing my track record it will be 3 more toothless gear wheels and a snapped connecting rod or something dumb lol but fingers crossed. once it lives again its for sale. I want to try out a raptor 700 before i give up on four strokes and drag the old banshee back out of the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Metal in oil

OK so after my last thread I have decided its time to get into my 660 and see what let loose this time. in the process of draining the oil i noticed nice shinny flacks and small chunks of metal. This is all normal right:banghead:
 

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Without knowing what your issues were before, I have a hard time telling you if it's normal now. Since this question is best answered when people know what questions and issues came before, I will merge this thread with it.

Judging from your other issues, if this is your first oil chance since the rebuild it's common to have shiny bits in the oil. This is why you should always change the oil a few hours into a new build/rebuild/major component replacement, to get that stuff out of the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was planning on changing the oil after an hour of two but it never made it that long. I got maybe 35 minutes out of it before something went pop and it locked up
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok got it all torn down today and once i got into the right side case cover I found my problem. Which was that my nut had come off of my counter balance and the key fell out and once that happened the balancer and the crank met which bent the balancer shaft. so now i have a new balancer on the way and will need to find a key and those stupid bending nut lockers
 

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Ok got it all torn down today and once i got into the right side case cover I found my problem. Which was that my nut had come off of my counter balance and the key fell out and once that happened the balancer and the crank met which bent the balancer shaft. so now i have a new balancer on the way and will need to find a key and those stupid bending nut lockers
If you bent the balancer shaft, you have also damaged the connecting rod..............

this one was bent also.................

 

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Discussion Starter #20
That is not what i wanted to hear. is there any way to tell for certain if it is damaged? Because other than a small scuff on the connecting rod it shows no other indication of the incident.
 
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