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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So today I got my 05 Raptor 660r back from the shop for a carb rebuild, new slip on and requested a full inspection for any work required. Started okay while there. Got home and had a difficult time firing but eventually got it going. Went for a ride, went through small puddles on my way to the track, no issues. Went through a puddle up to the engine and it stalled out. Took a while to get going again , but did. I tried the puddle again and it now will not start. I was fortunate there was a stranger willing to tow me back home.
Got home and did a visual inspected all the wires. Found no issues at first glance.. then noticed the spark plug rubber seal wasn’t pushed all the way in and water entered the spark plug area.. now soaked in there. Question.. do you feel that’s why it won’t fire over or is it possibly another sensor or ground that may have shorted out...

side note: the main headlights aren’t hooked up, one sides hooked up to a led and there’s 3 wires under the left front wheel well not hooked up. They seemed to be separated by electrical tape, but maybe water shorted something else out? I’m really at a loss and extremely upset with my local garage because I told them to go through it 💯 so i don’t get stuck 5 miles away from my house from a f-ing puddle I usually rip through!

Please help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Soooo, this was my second post and got to say THANKS for all your input! (Extreme sarcasms) ...

Found the issue and turns out the spark plug boot wasn’t pushed down securely and water got into spark plug tube allowing it not to get spark. Also the shop didn’t secure the carb boots so that was why it bogged giving it full throttle.
I also bought a lexx exhaust and with quiet core it doesn’t give enough output so had to install spark arrestor.. even still might replace while have the 30 day return..

Any recommendations for a quality replacement exhaust not $500
 

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You need jets changed, carbs set right for Any aftermarket muffler.
That's the problem, not the exhaust, and it will be the same or worse no matter what aftermarket exhaust you put on unless you do so.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Soooo, this was my second post and got to say THANKS for all your input! (Extreme sarcasms) ...
So... you go through a puddle and it causes problems. Then when things dry up a bit you go through the puddle AGAIN and it fails again! Way to go Einstein - you've invented cause and effect! (note the extreme sarcasm HERE. lol?)

Ignore my sarcasm and welcome to the forum!

Of course a wet plug will prevent spark from reaching the cylinder... Dry it out, put some dielectric grease inside and around the outside of the boot to prevent future water entry and make sure it's properly installed this time. Then get back to us with any other symptoms that you may still have left over.

I also bought a lexx exhaust and with quiet core it doesn’t give enough output so had to install spark arrestor
Don't understand this - what output are you describing and why does installing a spark arrestor somehow improve the situation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had a local dealership/shop doing the work. They rebuilt the carb with new jets. Replaced spark plug and failed to install the boot properly.. I was told the thing would be 100%, went for a ride and it happened again. I checked prior to going out.. hit the power lines and a couple puddles and it was done. Was able to pop start it once after drying the plug and cylinder... it stalled and that’s a wrap now..
here’s what’s going on now if you have some advice. It’s all dried out and now only clicking at the solenoid. I took my multi meter to the solenoid, battery, plugs in the cdi and also the starter. All are getting 12v. The only thing new when I got the thing was the starter, but most likely is a amazon China one.. oh I’d also like to mention that when I was at the shop, I had a difficult time starting and they wiggled the solenoid, cdi and it was firing up.. it started every time fine from shop to home to trails then the water incident again..

And about the lexx exhaust.. I was told right after having the carb rebuild that the exhaust was causing it to bog at mid throttle and that adding the arrestor would allow more flow for it to run smoother..
 

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I had a local dealership/shop doing the work. They rebuilt the carb with new jets. Replaced spark plug and failed to install the boot properly.. I was told the thing would be 100%, went for a ride and it happened again. I checked prior to going out.. hit the power lines and a couple puddles and it was done. Was able to pop start it once after drying the plug and cylinder... it stalled and that’s a wrap now..
here’s what’s going on now if you have some advice. It’s all dried out and now only clicking at the solenoid. I took my multi meter to the solenoid, battery, plugs in the cdi and also the starter. All are getting 12v. The only thing new when I got the thing was the starter, but most likely is a amazon China one.. oh I’d also like to mention that when I was at the shop, I had a difficult time starting and they wiggled the solenoid, cdi and it was firing up.. it started every time fine from shop to home to trails then the water incident again..

And about the lexx exhaust.. I was told right after having the carb rebuild that the exhaust was causing it to bog at mid throttle and that adding the arrestor would allow more flow for it to run smoother..
Adding the spark arrestor actually Adds a small amount of back pressure, and may help, but that can also be tuned out through the carbs...which they don't seem to know enough about.
 

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Master of the Electron
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Short across the two large lugs on the solenoid with a screwdriver - ignore the sparks - if starter now turns the problem is solenoid... if it doesn't then it's likely the starter or starter cable.

They should have resolved the mid throttle bog by adjusting needle position... not by putting the onus on you. The arrestor REDUCES flow, causing a slightly richer mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Adding the spark arrestor actually Adds a small amount of back pressure, and may help, but that can also be tuned out through the carbs...which they don't seem to know enough about.

Obviously not.. I’m really disappointed with their work! This isn’t the only quad they have messed up or done shitty work. I have a Mojave also. Went in for carb and time up, plus needed a new clutch cable and they waited 8-10 days to look at the bike to then tell me they need to order one and would be 3 weeks. Plus tried to charge me like 200$ and I left, replaced it myself oem for 45-50..

So you’re saying I need to mess with the mix and not go to what the book specs are now that the new exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Short across the two large lugs on the solenoid with a screwdriver - ignore the sparks - if starter now turns the problem is solenoid... if it doesn't then it's likely the starter or starter cable.

They should have resolved the mid throttle bog by adjusting needle position... not by putting the onus on you. The arrestor REDUCES flow, causing a slightly richer mixture.

It’s a brand new solenoid. I replaced that when I first got it. The starter cable seems fine because I’m getting 12v at the bolt. So then it would have to be the starter, correct? Is there any other way to test them?
 

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Obviously not.. I’m really disappointed with their work! This isn’t the only quad they have messed up or done shitty work. I have a Mojave also. Went in for carb and time up, plus needed a new clutch cable and they waited 8-10 days to look at the bike to then tell me they need to order one and would be 3 weeks. Plus tried to charge me like 200$ and I left, replaced it myself oem for 45-50..

So you’re saying I need to mess with the mix and not go to what the book specs are now that the new exhaust?
No, you need to read and do the 3mm clear tube method, in the 660 Stickie section.
Buy bigger pilot jets, and a DynoJet stage2 jet kit for their needles, as well as the mains that are included.
Get rid of the airbox lid too.
That is the only way to get 660 carbs right.
 

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Master of the Electron
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It’s a brand new solenoid. I replaced that when I first got it. The starter cable seems fine because I’m getting 12v at the bolt. So then it would have to be the starter, correct? Is there any other way to test them?
Don't care if you installed it a day or a century ago... that is how you troubleshoot it. But It is probably going to be the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, you need to read and do the 3mm clear tube method, in the 660 Stickie section.
Buy bigger pilot jets, and a DynoJet stage2 jet kit for their needles, as well as the mains that are included.
Get rid of the airbox lid too.
That is the only way to get 660 carbs right.
Hey there friend... I was sidetracked with work and am now finally getting back to this bike.. I can’t seem to locate the 3mm clear tube method in my book. I’m using the clymer manual M280-2. Is that what you were referring to? Also, idk if I mentioned this in previous post but I have installed a k and n air filter along with the new exhaust. Should I be doing stage 2 or 3?
Another quick/stupid question.. should I go back to the stock exhaust and maybe that’ll solve some of these problems (at least the ones bogging it down at low-mid throttle) if I can’t get the carb re-jetted soon?
 

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Look here on the forum in the 660 "Stickie" section, and you will see the clear tube method. Those measurements are different than the 660 service manuals, but proven better by numerous dyno runs.
I've done 3 660's with it, works great.
Buy two #25 pilot jets
a Dynojet jet kit, as it's the only way to buy their needles, and it comes with several main jets.
Get rid of the airbox lid.
Get a K&N or Uni style air filter with airbox adapter and a filterskin.
Put a small K&N style autoparts store filter on the end of the crankcase breather hose, as that hose previously vented through the now removed airbox lid
Buy Vito's airscrews, they are airscrews with thumbwheels machined on the ends.
They make life easy when you have to adjust them with carbs on the engine.
These things will make a 660 run great every time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Awesome.. I found the dynojet key with 2 25s and the brass air screws for like $130. I’ll read up on the sticky section here and get back to you ASAP..
would it still work well if I just drilled s few holes in the box and leave the crank case breather hose? Because I’m kinda confused by that park of your reply . Or, actually where to install that prior to the air box. Or is what your saying is gets super small one to keep debris out and use like a clamp to hold it on and say screw the brand new k & n air filter in the box itself (pretty much deleting it entirely ?
 

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Awesome.. I found the dynojet key with 2 25s and the brass air screws for like $130. I’ll read up on the sticky section here and get back to you ASAP..
would it still work well if I just drilled s few holes in the box and leave the crank case breather hose? Because I’m kinda confused by that park of your reply . Or, actually where to install that prior to the air box. Or is what your saying is gets super small one to keep debris out and use like a clamp to hold it on and say screw the brand new k & n air filter in the box itself (pretty much deleting it entirely ?
Yes, and get rid of the lid
and pilot jets don't come with jet kits, you'll have to buy them seperately
www.jetsrus.com
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is what I found and figured that’s what you were talking about. Looks exactly like what you posted, correct? So I see what you mean now about the small k&n filter.. what do you have wrapped up in the airbox? Hard to tell from pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
is that a filter or a bag of sorts? Maybe to block water from getting into the carbs with the lid off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
sorry another silly question, but do I need to get the main jet or anything else or does that come with the kit?

And man.. I really really appreciate your help! I’m familiar with a lot of other bikes but this new to me raptor has got me lost! Plus my local garage just doesn’t seem to have the proper knowledge for these. You’ve been a huge help and very patient!
 
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