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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was out in my garage the other day looking at the scratches all over my plastic.
Ive polished my share of aluminum and have plenty of buffs and compounds lying around.Since my plastic was scratched anyway i figured why not.Grabbed my drill chucked up a Loose section buff and put some white rouge compound on it and tryed a spot on my fender.It actually took alot of scratches away and made it shine.Since i didnt use a new clean buff or even the right compound it left some real fine scratches but nothing noticable from 3ft away.But i think the right compound and a clean buff it would make a huge difference.Im going to try a clean buff and more white rouge see what happens.I'll try to get some pic's up tomorrow.Here s a link to the compound and buff's
Compound,
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15300&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=433&iSubCat=435&iProductID=15300



Buff
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=881&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=433&iSubCat=434&iProductID=881
 

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thats cool, for bigger scratches you can use 400grit then 600 grit wet sand paper and then polish, it will look almost new
 

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Let me know how you make out with the buffing. My plastic is really scratched up and I have been trying to figure out the best way to clean it up.

Corey
 

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Tried using 400 grit, IMO waaaayyyy too rough unless you've got deep scratches.

Finished with 1000 grit and it still looked like dull crap after polishing. Luckily it's on a piece of plastic that I'm painting anyway, that was all just prep.

Of course I've got virtually no experience working with plastic finishes, just metal and wood. So it's entirely possible that I've just screwed it all up. ;)
 

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Mad Dog Beyond Thunderdome said:
Tried using 400 grit, IMO waaaayyyy too rough unless you've got deep scratches.

Finished with 1000 grit and it still looked like dull crap after polishing. Luckily it's on a piece of plastic that I'm painting anyway, that was all just prep.

Of course I've got virtually no experience working with plastic finishes, just metal and wood. So it's entirely possible that I've just screwed it all up. ;)
yeah for light stuff you totally dont need 400, i had some road rash and large scratches that i used it on, but even on smaller ones you just have to be presistent with it. i dont know i had decent results - it wasnt super shiny but really smooth and thats better than road rash :) i didnt really use polish on it though, i think with a rotary it will end really well
 

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everybody left out the heat gun....duh...after sanding makes instant shine, just keep it moving. will make plastic look brand new, I have done it a million times...even on that scratched up blue plastic tha plauge yamaha. practice first, then it will be no big deal....the heat fuses the "fuzzies" left from sanding
 

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the problem w/ buffing plastic is you take the factory shine out of it and than its dull... its not like auto clear coats where you can use compounds in the clear , little by little ,without getting to the base color. i've heard people talk about heating the plastic till it almost starts to melt :eek: but have never had the balls to try it myself :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The links above are the compounds made to restore the shine and clarity plastic len's.I have'nt used that exact compound.Ive only used compound made for aluminum.It worked good but don't expect it to remove deep scratches.But it did bring some of the shine back.Got rid of some of the haze.Then again the plastics have been thru hell so i wasnt expecting too much.
 
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