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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.....

Well, my crankshaft needs to be replaced. I have been looking at what to buy, and i see alot of people have gone with the Hot Rod cranks, and they are pretty fairly priced i guess. But i have also seen some +4 stroker cranks, but i don't know what else i would have to do or replace to get that. Right now i have a JE 10.75:1 piston, upgraded valve spring kit, web-cam cam, 35mm keihin carbs, full yosh exhaust, dynatek cdi box. I can't think of anything else at the moment that has to do with the engine.
Any suggestions on what to get, and/or what to upgrade during this build, any tips? I won't be doing this project myself, i will have help or have someone else do it, cuz frankly i'm sick of working on this damn thing lately. But while it's tore apart, i'd like to replace/upgrade anything i can within reason to make the bike stronger, or faster. Thanks in advance for your advice!
 

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You're going to need some gaskets and bearings. I'd suggest a full gasket kit because you'll spend a lot more to buy them seperately.

RT should have a good rundown on his bearings that were replaced since he just did it but you'll have to have your big crank bearing regardless of what else you replace.

Go with the +4mm (or +6mm) crank, and go with a barker crank (I don't care where from but there are a few places to find one on this site). You've already paid for the piston, might as well be able to use it and save some cash over the hotrods stroker with the 4mm. If money is tight, go with the stock stroke hotrods replacement.

Make sure you've got at least a good set of clutch springs and fibres (GYTR or Hinson) if not a new pressure plate and basket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So with the Barker cranks, either the +4 or +6, i can use my current piston? Because i looked up the HotRod +4 crank and you have to use their special piston setup. The crank itself is only $350, but the piston is another couple hundred.

Also, where would be a good place to look for the Barker cranks for the best deal, i'm having trouble finding them? THanks
And is there anything else i need to change with the 4mm or 6mm setup?
 

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coalshed racing is having a special (I believe till the end of the month) on the +4 barkers stroker cranks..somewhere in the neighborhood of $450. And you can use standard pistons with it...so you've technically saved money already going to a barkers...you can reuse your piston (if its in good shape), you just need to get new rings for it...
I have a stage 3 stroker cam made to go with the crank/ you already have the upgraded springs, so just a little valve guide modding and you'll be set...I'm selling for 110 shipped.
You must have the special tools (or be able to fabricate them) in order to pull some of the bearings.
The complete bearing replacement runs a little over $300..(at least thats what I was able to get them for at magnolia yamaha).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well i won't be able to tell what shape anything is in until i get it apart, but the quad is an 04, and it's spent more time being worked on than ridden. I bought it a year ago at the end of the riding season here, only road it a couple times because of the twist throttle, i got a thumb on it beginning of this season, had it out a few times, but something's broke every time, I've probably only ridden the thing 10-15 hours. It wasn't ridden much before i got it either, everything on it was like new, the guy spent more time putting parts on it than riding. So i was gonna ask if replacing ALL the bearings is necessary, or being such low hours a waste of money? Are there certain ones that should be changed regardless while i'm in there?
I'm also wondering, will my cam work with the stroker crank? Or do i need a new one? Hate to go buy another one when i already have a decent one. Unless there's a big difference, the more power the better ;)
 

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your webcam will work like a stage 1 or 2 hotcam depending on what grind it is. It will work with a stroker crank as well. The stage 3 will give it more power than the web-cam you have in it now...The bearings shouldn't need replaced, but they should be checked out, as well as the seals, shafts and forks,..ect for run-out... I ride..rode..about (average)15 hrs a week in the summer, 10 in the fall/spring,..none in the winter (here and there maybe)..for the last 4 years,..very consistantly..that translates to over 1000 hrs on mine, so I definetly changed mine. 5 out of 8 of the main ones were in bad shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The grind number on my web-cam is 696/697.
What kind of valve guide modding were you talking about that would need to be done with your stage 3?
So along with the complete gasket kit, oil seal kit also? I like to get whatever i need ahead of time instead of waiting half way through for parts to get shipped, cuz whatever i seem to need, my local dealer never seems to have in stock, plus their prices are outragious.
About how much HP do you think you get with the stroker crank set up compared to stock? Is it more lower end power.....
 

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I checked the specs, your grind is almost like a stage 1 hotcam, little radical on the exhaust duration.
lift in " duration @.05"
Hotcam stage 1 .335 int- .370 exh 254 int- 246 exh
webcam696-697 .340 int- .355 exh 232 int- 260 exh

Hotcam stage 2 .383 int- .405 exh 246 int- 259 exh
Hotcam stage 3 .400 int- .427 exh 265 int- 271 exh

the stage 3 definetly has way more potential (for hp) on a stroker crank than the 696-697webcam...BUT, it depends on what you want out of your motor and how you ride it....The webcam will give you tons of bottom-end and middle.
The 4mm stroker crank will give you an average hp boost of 4-6hp accross your entire rpm range (and a good deal of torque), the 6mm stroker: even more...thats not counting the boost from your carbs, exhaust, piston, cam, and porting gives you.
The better you pair up the components/porting the better average hp and peak hp you can get...

Just to let you know...you don't have to get a stroker crank, like MD said, you can get a replacement stock stroke crank w/the hotrods crank from hotrods for like $300. This is a standard stroke crank so any piston will fit.....

Its a cheaper route, but you'll wish that you got the stroker afterwards...especially if your the one tearing into the motor.
 

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regardless of what crank/rod combo you settle on, I can save you a few bucks over the prices you have quoted so far. I do recommend the barker 4mil stroker because I believe its the strongest and best made out there. I have the 4mil Barker cranks in stock and can ship them right away, the hotrods stuff I'd have to order but still just a few days to get.

I'd definately shitcan that JE piston though, trust me when I tell you that it might cost you an extra 100 today to replace it with a Wiseco or CP but it will save you an easy thousand someday by doing it. I've had a few motors in the shop with JE 10.75 pistons in pieces in the bottom of the cases. If you do run it, check it for cracks around the pin boss once a year at least, just not worth the risk to run it IMO.
 

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Yea, I heard plenty of horror stories about the 10.75 je pistons.....I think the 12:1 je's are alright though...never heard anything bad about them
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So if i get the barker 4mm, what piston would best fit that combo? Keep in mind i would still like to run pump gas if possible, not straight race fuel. If i decide to change the piston, which you guys have pretty much convinced me on, would it be better to get the barker crank and another piston, or the hotrods crank and piston combo? If i get the hotrods setup, won't i have to bore out my cylinder? cuz i don't think their pistons for their crank come in stock bore.
About the cams... The webcam gets more low to mid range power then the stage 3 hotcam? I like the low end and mid range power, especially for the sand. Not that there hasn't been a few times i have reached for another gear that hasn't been there, lol, but i'm more about gettin to speed fast, and having that power there when i need it. I just don't know what would be the best combo for where i ride as far as the stage 3 hotcam vs. my webcam. Out of everyone i ride with, we all have raptors, but mine is the only one with all the mods, so i have nothing to compare to unfortunately. And my banshee is no comparison! tho i am more comfortable on my raptor.
 

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I wouldn't go anything higher than your webcam you have for a stock stroke, the x4 or stage 3 would be the way to go for a stroker crank...
If your looking to be cost effective-
Get a hotrods stock stroke crank, wiseco piston 11:1-100.5mm...Standard pistons will fit on the hotrods stock stroke crank, not the hotrods +4mm stroker crank, it will require a clean up bore, but is basically stock.
keep your cam you have now.
The piston is about $110, the crank CSR can get you (he said he'll get you the best price-take his word for it).....you should PM him just to go over some options,..he helped me out a lot!
 

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betterdays469 said:
So if i get the barker 4mm, what piston would best fit that combo? Keep in mind i would still like to run pump gas if possible, not straight race fuel. If i decide to change the piston, which you guys have pretty much convinced me on, would it be better to get the barker crank and another piston, or the hotrods crank and piston combo? If i get the hotrods setup, won't i have to bore out my cylinder? cuz i don't think their pistons for their crank come in stock bore.
About the cams... The webcam gets more low to mid range power then the stage 3 hotcam? I like the low end and mid range power, especially for the sand. Not that there hasn't been a few times i have reached for another gear that hasn't been there, lol, but i'm more about gettin to speed fast, and having that power there when i need it. I just don't know what would be the best combo for where i ride as far as the stage 3 hotcam vs. my webcam. Out of everyone i ride with, we all have raptors, but mine is the only one with all the mods, so i have nothing to compare to unfortunately. And my banshee is no comparison! tho i am more comfortable on my raptor.
If you want to do the stroker yet maintain the ability to perform future bore/hones I'd recommend the barker based 4mil stroker crank with chrome-moly rod and a Wiseco 11:1 100.5mm piston. If you go wit the 100.5mm piston it'll do a couple of things for you. 1 is it will ensure you start with a fresh and true bore of .020 over and 2 it will allow you 2 more bores in your stock cylinder (101 and 102mm). This is a very senseable route to take when considering the long haul. You actual compression will be 11.4:1 with a stock head that has not had any combustion chamber material removed but the 4mil crank has a 4 degree timing retard built into it so you should be able to run 93 octane pump gas with the webcam but it would be close. I'm confident you would be able to run on 93 octane with a more agressive cam profile such as the stroker cam though. Reason is, the added duration of the stroker cam will bleed off some of the compression over the relativly tame profile of the 696 grind but you wouldn't have to change out the cam to run it in this combo, worse case scenario is you would have to splash 10% race gas into 90% 93 octane.

It would damn sure have all the bottom end you could stand.
 

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CSR, with that combination of parts, would you care to venture a guess as to what the power band would be. Safe to assume it would start off idle and go from there.

Might make an intresting motor for a grizzly.
 

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firstraptor said:
CSR, with that combination of parts, would you care to venture a guess as to what the power band would be. Safe to assume it would start off idle and go from there.

Might make an intresting motor for a grizzly.
thats what I was thinking :crazy:
 

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firstraptor said:
CSR, with that combination of parts, would you care to venture a guess as to what the power band would be. Safe to assume it would start off idle and go from there.

Might make an intresting motor for a grizzly.
I think you're right about it making a good grizz motor, the powerband of that motor should be very useful in a grizz. I've had a few calls from grizz guys looking at the 6mil cranks but they've been turned off because of the down time it would take to do it. The grizz and rappy cranks are different, I could stroke their crankshaft to 6mils but it would have to be the crank thats in their bike right now because a rappy crank won't work.
 
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