Raptor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
I am needing to replace the rear rotor because someone rode it without undoing the the hand brake switch. So it got hot and warped. Anyway i got to the point of undoing the 4 allen bolts to take off the plate and successfully got 1 off, another one however was partially stripped and i am unable to remove it, in fact i broke my allen key just taking the first one off.

I am going to pick up a little torch from lowes after work to hopefully heat and remove the bolts. My question is how should i go about removing the stripped bolt?

What allen tool do you guys use? I have some cheap allen keys on a chain but like i said i busted mine just taking one off. As you can see with the pic of the stripped bolt that i tried some channel locks and that didn't work.

Thanks in advance. Hope the pictures help.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,246 Posts
OK, first go to Sears and get a set of good 3/8" drive hex/Allen head sockets. Spray the bolts down with penetrating oil then tap the hex head socket into the bolt with a hammer and then use the 3/8 ratchet to remove.
On the one you've stripped you will need to start it with a hammer and punch. Soak it down with penetrating oil and start at around 12:00 then punch CCW toward 9:00 until it breaks loose then go back to the beginning of this post.

If the punch doesn't work at first, apply heat to the bolt then go back to the punch.

good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Blueranger you are too awesome, i had to use pb buster to loosen the nuts and the other 3 came out fairly easy, the stripped one needed pb buster, let it sit, it didnt do anything after 2 min so i torched it for a few and worked it a little more and it didnt move much so i pb sprayed it some more and worked it and it started coming right out.

So looks like i have to find some new bolts to put in, shouldnt cost too much.

And thanks for the hex set advice, i needed an excuse to get some anyway :) so 78 dollars later i got it off hehehe.

Tools used
Bernz quickfire torch
PB Blaster penetrating spray
6 pc 3/8 drive met hex set
picked up a new / better 3/8 drive ratchet



Thanks, now i am awaiting a new rotor plate from another person on this site. So now i need to buy some new break pads and bolts.



Side note, I do have concerns for the caliper, i used a c clamp to try to push the caliper boot in and it wouldnt move at all, so i was looking at lines and such and happened to press just a little bit on the brake pedal and it snapped the c clamp in half. wasted 8 dollars for that today. Should i buy a more heavy duty clam and try again or something else. I figure if push comes to shove i could loosen the bolt and drain some fluid while trying to push it in. Any ideas?

Thanks again
-Dave
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
968 Posts
Open the zerk fitting, then try to push in the caliper. It shoulg go easly. If not, you may want to get a new caliper piston and 2 o-ring kit. Not much money. You could try to take the caliper piston out and clean it up with 220 wet/dry sand paper. Remove and inspect o-rings. Blead the system after reinstall. Use DOT-4 brake fluid only. Good luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,246 Posts
Awesome is a pretty big title to stand behind....I'll settle for "you got it right this time", glad you got all the bolts out and improved your tool collection.
Well, I've never seen a c-clamp break like that. I assume you had the cap off the master cylinder as you tried to push back on the piston in the caliper? I believe THUMPER is on the right track with the zerk or even the banjo bolt. If opening up the zerk or banjo bolt relieves the pressure it's possible the master cylinder could be the problem if the fluid isn't returning to the reservoir.
 

·
Love/My/Kid
Joined
·
847 Posts
also make sure the park brake bolt is un screwed (ccw) this will keep it from depreesing in all the way aswell
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
also make sure the park brake bolt is un screwed (ccw) this will keep it from depreesing in all the way aswell
I didn't even think about that, the previous owner could have had it set tighter b/c of the breaks to begin with. Thank you I will check that out tonight after work.
 

·
Love/My/Kid
Joined
·
847 Posts
no prob i had a hella time when i tryed to replace my pads tell i figed that out (with the help of this forum)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Awesome is a pretty big title to stand behind....I'll settle for "you got it right this time", glad you got all the bolts out and improved your tool collection.
Well, I've never seen a c-clamp break like that. I assume you had the cap off the master cylinder as you tried to push back on the piston in the caliper? I believe THUMPER is on the right track with the zerk or even the banjo bolt. If opening up the zerk or banjo bolt relieves the pressure it's possible the master cylinder could be the problem if the fluid isn't returning to the reservoir.
I never opened the master cylinder as i figured the pressure would go back as it would when you hit the breaks if that makes sense, but on the other hand i didn't think about the last owner putting more brake fluid in and expanding it out, so yea i should probably pop the lid on that so i can reset the caliper and lose some air in the lines. Sorry for the noob moves im familiar with a car but i don't wanna take chances of screwing something up on the raptor thinking i know something i really don't.

So, first thing i'll do then is loosen the park brake screw by the clutch and see if that helps pull the caliper back far enough where it needs to be, if not i'll pop the master cylinder cap and try to back it off more. Then i'll update from there.

I'll have to look at the manual as i thought i saw in there somewhere that there are 2 different master cylinders, one on the front brake for the front brakes and one on the motor for the rear I believe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ok, so i looked at the P-Brake by the clutch and it was screwed all the way in so it doesnt look like it was tightened. I found the master cylinder behind the foot cover and unscrewed the cap and there was about 1/4 brake fluid inside. I was able to push down on the brake a little and watch the cylinder close, and when i let go it went back to its resting spot shown in the pic above. i also used my hand and turned the P-Brake cable on the back of the caliper a little and watched it close some and i let go and it went back, its like it was meant to stop right where it is. If you look at the pic i cant get it to go back any further but i can get it to close up. Would one of the bolts on the caliper be used to release some more? My dad is dropping off a better C-Clamp so i can use it when i open the zerk fitting in hopes it releases preasure that way, so i'll post back here in just a little while.



and by the park brake being screwed in i mean it should be just like a bike right, it is only tight the further away from the clutch its unscrewed, b/c its screwed all the way into the clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Alright Guys I think we are good. I went out and loosened the zerk screw and nothing happened, i then tightened it back up and loosened the bolt for the main line and nothing happened, so I said screw it, I removed the main line bolt into the caliper, unhooked the p-brake line and removed the caliper, drained the brake fluid and started taking a look. On the back side of the caliper where the park brake spring is, i loosened the bolt and started unthreading the main bolt going into the caliper. (I hope im making sense)

So by unscrewing that threaded bolt i was able to use both thumbs and push the caliper back into its housing wohoo. So, i then started tightening it back up to the point that if i go further it will push the caliper housing out again. Then i put everything back together and am waiting on my rotor plate to come in then i have to wait a week or two before i can buy some brake pads, as its nearing the end of the month and the wife will kill me if i spend any more money after all this. So 35 dollars is the cheapest i found for rear brakes, anyone find anything cheaper? Oh then I have the bleed them of course.

I might get lucky and get some brake pads earlier, either way i'll keep you posted.

Edited and posted the pic, ok so the red circle that bolt had to be backed out in order for the caliper to go back in.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
968 Posts
Glad you figured it out. Dont upset the wife. Bleeding these takes some time so be patiant. Let gravity do its job. Two beer job. Good luck.
 

·
Love/My/Kid
Joined
·
847 Posts
also make sure the park brake bolt is un screwed (ccw) this will keep it from depreesing in all the way aswell
sorry i was not clear the "threaded bolt " is the bolt i was referring to not pb leaver on the clutch purch. this bolt is where you get you pb adj...
but im glad you got it wooped.....
O and as for the the wife i found away around that just buy her a quad, dont know about your wife but it sure stoped mine from nagging:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
sorry i was not clear the "threaded bolt " is the bolt i was referring to not pb leaver on the clutch purch. this bolt is where you get you pb adj...
but im glad you got it wooped.....
O and as for the the wife i found away around that just buy her a quad, dont know about your wife but it sure stoped mine from nagging:D
hehe that plan is in the works :) prob won't be until next summer. At the end of this month i am having a big patio poured in the back, and then i have to build a pergola :) it will be fun.

I live in republic, mo and in city limits, i dont have a whole lot of places to ride unless i want to travel more than 45 min. And I don't like to ride alone so I just don't go. Thus another reason to get the wife one :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,246 Posts
When setting up the rear brake, you may find that a syringe and a piece of small tygon tubing work well in pushing the new brake fluid backwards from the bleeder valve up the line and into the master cylinder. With the cap off the master cylinder, pump the brakes and bleed the banjo at the master cylinder, then the banjo at the caliper and then the bleeder. That's how I do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
ok, got everything back on including the brake pads, got some extra cash the other day so cool.

I bled the brakes like I would on a car which is easier on a raptor then a car hehe i pumped the brake fluid through and left the zerk open till some fluid came out, then tightened it a little and pumped the brakes, then when they hardened i opend and closed the zerk quickly enough to tighten the brakes.

The troubled part was the parking brake, it was a pain in the butt to get that working and i feel it could still use some adjusting. The brake pedal seems like it takes some pressing to work as well but i bled the lines and got all the air out as well. I guess at this point its just playing with the brakes to get them tighter.
 

·
Love/My/Kid
Joined
·
847 Posts
its so you can remove the park brake. it covers the hole in the caliper to stop dirt from getting in
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top