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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for an answer that I can't seem to find anywhere. When I turn my key on my 2005 660R the reverse light will flash once. The bike starts up pretty well for the most part but won't stay running without the choke(More than likely the tunning of the carb). If given any throttle the bike stalls out after hitting what sounds like a false rev limiter. I'm worried that this has something to do with my CDI since I'm at a point where I feel lost with this bike. Any help is appreciated!

-Weston
 

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Master of the Electron
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Welcome to the forum, Weston!

I'm not familiar with a single flash of the reverse light at key on... however the over temp light should illuminate while the start button is pressed. We'll ignore this one until/unless it becomes an issue. Is your CDI stock or aftermarket?

The need for choke at idle is usually indicative of plugged pilot jet and passages in one or both carbs - a throrough cleaning is called for.

Dirty carbs can also be the cause of stalling out when throttle is advanced above idle OR it could be due to a common reverse RPM limiter issue: Try grounding the green/white wire where it plugs into the reverse switch (down by the output sprocket) and see if that helps - then you may want to implement one of the more permanent fixes that will allow the reverse light to still workl.

Your '05 does not have the parking brake RPM limiter so that can not be your issue.

BTW, more history would be helpful - how long have you had this quad, how/when did these issues begin, what if anything have you tried, etc., etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I got this quad about a year ago and sadly haven’t been able to ride it once. Got sold to me as “only needs a carb tune”. Got home from the four hour drive to a bed full of oil. Got to working on fixing it up to see that bike ether got really hot or caught fire at some point due to a couple melted wires specifically the wires that ran to the reverse switch(already fixed). It has an open air box and a slip on but stock headers. Sadly got it with a Chinese carb but I did replace OEM jets with stock sizing.

I have already tried grounding the reverse and same thing happens. CDI is stock.

I’ll be home in about an hour and I’ll go through the carbs again and give them a once over for any issues.
 

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Master of the Electron
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So, based upon your post above, the reverse light DOES work properly now - ON when in reverse and OFF when not (except for the single flash at power up) correct?

Thanks for the history... and one thing in that history is GLARING! The Chinese carbs are famous for being difficult (near impossible for many) to tune. You are correct in replacing the main jets... however, if your airbox is open you used the wrong values (stock 140 L, 145 R). This will cause, at least, stumble and farting above idle.. at worst dying above idle. If you are stuck with the Chinese carbs then you at least need to jet them properly and hope for the best.

You will need (Mikuni) 160 in left and 165 in right or Dynojet 146 in left and 148 in rignt. You will also need Dynojet needles (may as well get the DJ stage 2 kit since it comes with proper main jets and needles). In addition you will need 25 pilot jets. These numbers are to start - you may need to drop each main by one value (after you get things running at all!)


Good luck and ask more questions if necessary. Please keep us informed of problems AND successes!
 
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Master of the Electron
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I believe they may be the same... try to make yours work. Jet them properly - you will have to regardless what carbs you use.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
IT’S ALIVE!!!! Can’t thank you enough. I was lost on this stupid machine lmao. Need to tune it a little bit more because it still coughs a little bit at low idle when revving it. But with a little bit of choke it wake it up. And just to be clear that would mean up the jet size slightly?
 

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Master of the Electron
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And just to be clear that would mean up the jet size slightly?
Depends on where in throttle position the issue occurs...

Idle through about 1/4 throttle is controlled by the pilot jets and fuel (pilot) screws.
1/4 through 3/4 throttle are primarily the needles.
3/4 through full throttle is primarily due to the main jets.

Test at different throttle positions. Fix full throttle first, then mid, then idle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Depends on where in throttle position the issue occurs...

Idle through about 1/4 throttle is controlled by the pilot jets and fuel (pilot) screws.
1/4 through 3/4 throttle are primarily the needles.
3/4 through full throttle is primarily due to the main jets.

Test at different throttle positions. Fix full throttle first, then mid, then idle.
Great info. I will be tinkering with that tomorrow! I messed with it a little bit today and was able to get to revv out all the way but still had a hard time from idle to about 1/4. Didn't touch the A/F screw or the pilot jet though.
 
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