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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I ride at high speeds and my handlebars are always jerking around which is highly annoying.
What is a good brand of steering stablilizer I can get to stop it?

~2008 Raptor 700 SE
 

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All the stick styles work well, but tend to have short o-ring life because the exposed rod that travels in and out gets covered in dirt, mud, grit that builds up against the sealing o-ring, some of it making it through.
If you get a stick style, make sure it's rebuildable.
I have no experience with Precision or Elka($500-$600).
I have read and heard good things about CCP for years, and just bought one on ebay today, $199, $210 after tax.
The CCP are also cheap and easy to rebuild, an o-ring and oil.
For $60 more than the stick style, I'm trying one out.
 

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Make sure your suspension sag(front and rear) are correct for your weight, and that the front end is aligned right.
If not, a dampner will only be a bandaid, and it still won't handle as well as it should.
 

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I've also used the CCP with good success and also bought one for the wife's bike.
 
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Adjust your suspension. Mess around with the top clickers on the front ones. I adjusted mine even more at the sand dunes because of the jerking around feeling. 3 clicks in from fully extended and going at speed I do not feel any jarring in the bars. Surprised me actually..l
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Adjust your suspension. Mess around with the top clickers on the front ones. I adjusted mine even more at the sand dunes because of the jerking around feeling. 3 clicks in from fully extended and going at speed I do not feel any jarring in the bars. Surprised me actually..l
Exactly what I feel. Its jerky. I'm just not exactly sure how to mess with my suspension and I might screw it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The guy I bought my quad from was at least 300+ pounds so I think the front compression could be set down quite a bit... as im only 120#.
And the back I think needs to be adjusted tighter.
 

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Exactly what I feel. Its jerky. I'm just not exactly sure how to mess with my suspension and I might screw it up.
A bud e-mailed this to me.

Remember compression adjustment is the one on top with the reservoir and rebound is on the bottom of the shock.


Finally !! The shocking story of how to "Tune your Suspension" !!!


Apr 1, 2000
By: ORC STAFF
ATV at Off-Road.com


Your probably just like most people. You go to your local dealer ,pick out your ATV, take it home and ride it. Did you know that you could and should adjust the comfort of that 4 wheeled beast by adjusting those shocks and thereby giving you the a more comforting ride that means you will be LESS fatigued at the end of the day ? HA ! I didn't think so !! Well here it is,The best advice around. Tune your Suspension . Don't know how ? Don't be afraid, we'll walk you through it,step by ahhhh,don't step there,that looks like something my dog threw up. First we'll teach you a few simple things about ATV shocks.
1) PRELOAD is when you adjust the length of the shock to match your body weight. The springs that you see on them controls PRELOAD.
2) COMPRESSION controls how easy or hard it is for the shock to squeeze together when you hit bumps.
3) REBOUND controls how fast the shock returns to its normal position after it has been compressed.
One note here, NOT all shocks on all ATVs have all these adjustments. Please consult you owners manual to determine which adjustments you can make.


Preload Adjustment
By turning the large nut at the bottom of the spring you can adjust the springs tension to suit your body weight. To properly make this adjustment you will need to .measure the "ride height sag"....
REAR SHOCK
1) lift the rear wheels up off the ground.
2) With the wheels off the ground, measure the distance from the top center of the rear axle to some point straight above it on the ATVs frame. Write this dimension down.
3) With all your riding gear on plop your butt on the seat with your feet on the pegs in your normal riding position. Then have somone measure the distance again in the same place as the first measurment. The difference between the 2 measurments is called the "ride height sag".
4) Adjust your preload so that your "ride height sag" is about 30% of your total suspension travel. Example: If you have 9" of total travel you should have about 3" of ride height sag.


FRONT SHOCK
Use the same procedure EXCEPT your "ride height sag" should be about 20% of your total shock travel.
Measuring with wheels off the ground

Measure again with full riding gear on

Compression Adjustment
Adjusting the compression of the shock determines how fast the shock "compresses" together. This adjustment should be made according to the type of riding you plan on doing. The real trick here is set the suspension at the point where you use all the travel of the shock without bottoming out hard .
With the setting too soft the suspension will feel "mushy" and you feel like it's "floating".
With the setting too hard, You'll feel every little bump you hit because the shock isn't absorbing the bumps like it should.
You can start by setting the compression at full soft. Ride the ATV for a short while .Then begin to ride over small bumps. Begin to adjust the shocks to absorb the bumps without feeling mushy. As you adjust the compression on the shocks, gradually begin moving up to bigger bumps and jumps. Every time you progress to larger jumps amd bumps readjust the shocks. Keep doing this untill you reach the point where you have reached YOUR personal limit of bumps or jumping safely while using all the travel in the shocks. (It's even ok if you allow the shocks to bottom out "slightly" as you land your largest jump)

Rebound
The rebound adjustment is the setting that determines how fast the shock returns to its normal position.
Setting the rebound at full soft allows the shock to return to full extension more quickly. At this setting the ATV may begin to experience a pogo effect. As the rider speeds over bumps, a shock that returns too quickly may rebound right back up and smack you right in the Butt,sending you right over the handle bars.
Setting the rebound at full hard slows the return of the shock to it's normal position. At this setting as a rider speeds over bumps the shocks may not return to position fast enough causing the shocks "pack up". The more the shocks "pack up" The less travel they have untill they have a chance to return to their normal position.
The best way to set the rebound on your shocks is to find a set of"whoops". A series of rolling hills two feet high and six feet apart.
With the setting at full soft, ride through the whoops at a slow pace at first . Then each time you ride through the whoops go through a little faster adjusting the rebound untill you reach your fastest comfortable speed and the ATV is returning to its correct position without bucking you off.

It's not brain surgery
The MOST important thing to remember is...........ONLY MAKE ONE CHANGE AT A TIME !!!!! Doing one change at a time will allow you to get a better feel for how your suspension is responding to the changes. Making more than one change at a time will just confuse you because you won't know which change made a desired or undesired effect. Tuning in your suspension to suit your needs will make you a much happier camper.
 

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But can I screw up my shocks by over adjusting or anything?
No. But record where you start from, and each change you make. IE, rebound = 17 clicks counterclockwise from the stop.
But, always start with spring sag.
 
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And hit the same section of trail each time as your “test section” so you know the difference each time.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome thanks guys . But how do I unload the back shock so I can adjust it. I tired doing it with the quad on the ground and it wasn’t going very fast
 

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Hang the back bar from the rafters of your shop. Back off the lock nut, then sometimes it's easier to turn the spring instead of the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hang the back bar from the rafters of your shop. Back off the lock nut, then sometimes it's easier to turn the spring instead of the nut.
Ok, thanks. Does it not hurt the shock to sit like that?
Also I heard you want the shock to be about a third down the travel with your whole weight on it. Am I right?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So my shocks feel like shit and they're all backed out compression wise.... They hardly compress at all though.
 

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You said earlier the last owner was 300+. If he had the springs changed for his weight you will have to change the springs. If ur 120 lbs. doubt you will ever get them right. Everyone on here recommends JOCAGA. He can re valve and put springs on. Someone will chime in with his contact info.
 

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What state are you in?
Maybe one of us is close, and can show you how to set it up.

Google Dave Moss, sportbike suspension guru.
Watch his videos, he's excellent at explaing sag, and even though it's sportbikes he does, the process and shock functions are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You said earlier the last owner was 300+. If he had the springs changed for his weight you will have to change the springs. If ur 120 lbs. doubt you will ever get them right. Everyone on here recommends JOCAGA. He can re valve and put springs on. Someone will chime in with his contact info.
I think the springs are stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What state are you in?
Maybe one of us is close, and can show you how to set it up.

Google Dave Moss, sportbike suspension guru.
Watch his videos, he's excellent at explaing sag, and even though it's sportbikes he does, the process and shock functions are the same.
Utah
 
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