So took engine out again as was having trouble accessing some bolts as I have the following to change.
l&a w/ 52t gear
Clutch
Stator
Found this when I took the flywheel off. And I also can’t get the flywheel off the old gear. When I went to take the flywheel nut it was easily taken off even after I torqued it. Any help?
Need to make sure crank snout and flywheel are super clean before installing and use an impact of some sort when installing. Bolt torque alone does not properly seat tapered surfaces. Also use red loctite on the threads.
I would not re-use that flywheel, it is too damaged.
I only use impacts for loosening stubborn fasteners, never to install.
Proper torque will seat a taper lock.
Use loc-tite.
Flywheel does look like it's had it.
No lapping compound, as it is abrasive.
Nothing abrasive on taper-lock surfaces.
As long as there are no burrs, if so, use a file.
Make sure the surfaces are clean, torque and loc-tite the flywheel nut.
Having an issue we’re I am bogging out right at take off. I’ve been adjusting the carbs and from 1/4 to full seems to rev through fine. But I have this pop in the beginning that keeps stopping it from accelerating clearly right off the bat. I ground the rev wire because bogged so much in reverse. But now I have this bog in the beginning that’s preventing a smooth take off.
I seem to be having an issue getting the oring not to rip on the idle screw spring. I’m using the smallest oring on the harbor freight kit but the spring still seems to catch hold of it, on both quads. Rebuilt carb on raptor #1 today
Unfortunately most all of the o-ring kits never have the exact size and/or material for most Japanese bike applications.
I just buy carb rebuild kits or get the oem o-rings from Partzilla or Motosport.
I also always put vaseoline on o-rings before installing them, as it helps to prevent cuts and tears, as well as helps hold them in place.
Vaseoline is also petroleum based and harmless to o-rings and engine parts.
Keep it off paper and metal gaskets and clucth plates, otherwise it's fine.
Messing with raptor#1 at the moment, had taken plunger out of it and put in #2. So got plunger in today and put it back in to raptor#1 turned it on to tune and noticed that I can move the idle assembly with my hand so tighten the screws all good now. Just having issues with idle oring, keeps ripping the smallest ones I have. Any luck finding those local?
Finally raptor#2 is running after the housing swap. Idle screw is actually responding now.
Turned both screws 3 turns out
K&n filter
Lexx exhaust
148L,150R on dj needles 2 notches left on top of needle
Getting some minor pops during acceleration and decel, and bogs out at about 3/4.
Swapped them out, have been playing around with it this morning. So I have idle to 1/4 fine, when I get to about 1/2 to 3/4 I get almost like a rev limiter stutter.
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